05 acura tl alarm

Hey guys, so as some of you know i have several alarm installs already done, but i have not done anything on newer cars. So my cousin wasnts to install just a regular alarm on his 05 Acura TL witch would be the newest car ive done so far.

Just in general is there anything i needs to watchout for any difference? Advice? Anyone done an alarm on this models?

oh and i saw the wiring diagram on here for the acural tl but there is not one for the 05, can someone confirm that the 06 would be the same?

By the way we are  looking to install a autopage RF-350, Since he also has an autopage on his other car and seems to work ok for him.

an other quick questions does anybody know what kind of door locks does the TL have?

Fairly easy car to do. The 2004 through 2008 models are similar ( 2004 - 2006 are identical, 2007 and 2008 have minor changes ).
Door locks are Type B (-). The Trunk Release is Type A (+) at the dash switch.

Here are a few resources for the wire info...
The 12 Volt :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/vehicles.html
Bulldog Security :   https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp
Audiovox : https://techservices.audiovox.com/AccessRequest.aspx    Requires free sign-up.
DEI :        https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp

Might consider getting a module like the EVO-ALL and adding remote start, too. The EVO-ALL makes the locks and triggers easier.
Wiring in the steering column is a little tight.

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Soldering is fun!

so will a 3 wire positive door lock work for this application?

https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#3wp

sorry 3 wire NEGATIVE not positive.

Hopefully there is a forum member familiar with the AutoPage RF-350 unit you want to install.  The install
guide is rather vague in certain areas. 

For the door Lock and Unlock, here is the info from Ready Remote :
Power Lock     Pink/Black (passenger door lock switch) (-)  @ left side of dash fuse box, green 30 pin plug, pin 25  
Power Unlock  Pink/Blue (passenger door lock switch) (-)    @ left side of dash fuse box, green 30 pin plug, pin 9

These wires are easy to find, just pull the Driver Kick Panel.  They are in a Green plug facing the rear of the car
on the side of the fuse box assy.  For your RF-350, you should install an inline 1N4001 diode ( band towards the
RF-350 ) in each output wire, then connect to the correct vehicle lock wire.  This is assuming that the RF-350 has
"flip-flop" lock outputs.  Here is a diagram :

The big issue is if the TL has the Factory Alarm system.  If it does, you either have to run wires into the drivers
door or use a module.  I install remote start systems and therefore always use a full featured bypass module
for this car.   Makes life easy.

Looks like the RF-350 Trunk Release is the Gray wire at H2/8.  It doesn't give the output polarity but I'm guessing
it's a (-) output.  That means you will need a relay to convert the output to the (+) signal the TL needs .  Here is
the wiring :  ( parts needed : 30/40 Amp SPDT relay, in-line fuse holder w/10 Amp fuse )

Relay Pin 85 to RF-350 H2/8 Gray wire ( Default programming OK )
Relay Pins 86 and 87 to +12V constant fused @ 10 Amps
Relay Pin 30 to TL YELLOW /GREEN (+)  @ trunk lid opener switch, blue 5 pin plug, pin 2
Relay Pin 87a not used - insulate

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Soldering is fun!

Here are some photo's :

The +12V constant and Ignition wires are found at the main ignition connector in the steering column at the
ignition switch.  Here is a photo (  on your TL the Starter wire is BLACK/ White ) :

The optional (-) Horn wire connection is also in the ( top of the ) steering column as shown below : 

The (+) Parking Lights are in the DKP fuse box as shown in this photo :

Also note the Green Plug on the left of the fuse box.  That is where the door lock wires are found.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

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Factory Alarm system.  If it does, you either have to run wires into the drivers
door or use a module.  I install remote start systems and therefore always use a full featured bypass module
for this car.   Makes life easy.

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This is what ive thinking about the autopage does not have factory arm/disarm wires. so the solution for that would be getting the lock signal from the door switches? What would happen if i use the lock/unlock signal from the wires that are in the green plug next to fuse box? without using the factory arm/disarm wires.

linkarmy09 wrote:

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[QUOTE=kreg357]
What would happen if i use the lock/unlock signal from the wires that are in the green plug next to fuse box? without using the factory arm/disarm wires.

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The factory alarm won't disarm and it'll go off.

Solutions would be to:
1) Wire the unlock wire of the autopage into both the disarm and unlock wires of the Acura, diode isolating both.
2) Put the factory alarm into valet mode and leave it there never more.

I notice a trend on here of people putting security on top of security, this puzzle me so.

Very easy to do. Take your time and use a DMM. If you have questions ask we are here to help.

option 1 to wire to both unlock and disarm sounds simple enough but will ask my cousin to see what route he wants to go. I do see your point on the security over security, in our case he does not have the OEM keyfob and well we like electronics so we figured we would give it a try.

An Avital 4103 ( or similar ) with a Fortin EVO-ALL would give you remote keyless entry & remote start with two after-market FOB's, 1000 foot range, no need to go into the doors and the Factory Alarm still operational.  The EVO-ALL only needs one connection to handle the locks, alarm & trunk ( Door Data CAN SW ) shown on the Parking Light wire photo.  

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Soldering is fun!

I really want to do one with an evo or express kit but i look at the instructions and i get a bit confused. I look at the web page and i just say to myself, great more things to lean lol. i just recently got started with the alarm side of electronics but it is something that i definatelly gotta look into it.

kreg357 wrote:

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An Avital 4103 ( or similar ) with a Fortin EVO-ALL would give you remote keyless entry & remote start with two after-market FOB's, 1000 foot range, no need to go into the doors and the Factory Alarm still operational.  The EVO-ALL only needs one connection to handle the locks, alarm & trunk ( Door Data CAN SW ) shown on the Parking Light wire photo.   <IMG src="https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/smileys/smiley1.gif">

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The wiring you save on locks, trunk, and alarm, you make up for on the remote start end