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viper 5900 issues,

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=137277
Printed Date: April 30, 2024 at 5:17 AM


Topic: viper 5900 issues,

Posted By: wizwrath
Subject: viper 5900 issues,
Date Posted: September 17, 2014 at 5:36 AM

Hi guys, Please help, (I did check/search for this topic, but couldnt find anything).

On the relay satellite to main brain harness, do I just connect the harness to the satellite and main brain without cutting the wiring harness in two? I connected the ignition source (yellow wire) and just tapped it in and didnt cut it. Is this correct and is this the correct ignition source to operate the programming and valet switch options, etc?

I cant get the ignition kill to work using the relay satellite, I had to use a external starter kill relay, I did use the heavy purple and green wires between the factory starter wires. when I tripped and/or set the alarm there is still continuity between the wires (I could still start the vehicle.
I did connect the large/heavy gauge wires to constant 12volt source.

When I set the alarm everytime, the alarm goes off and on the remote it shows the hood trigger is triggering the alarm. When i immediately reset (turn off and then rearm), then the system is fine. I did not connect anything else to this hood trigger wire (grey wire on the H-3 harness).

Thank you in advance for any help you can provide! : )



Replies:

Posted By: catback
Date Posted: September 18, 2014 at 1:33 AM
The ribbon cable does not get cut or tapped, it is left as is just as it came out of the box. Plug one side to the alarm module and the other to the relay satellite.

Why the anti-grind/starter kill does not function is a question of your wiring being correct. Considering the above paragraph, I can only assume something isn't right.

Your alarm going off is also likely due to incorrect wiring. To test the hood trigger issue, you can simply unplug the H3 harness and see if the problem persists.

All that said the next thing to do is list what car/truck you're installing the 5900 on and list your wiring connections.




Posted By: wizwrath
Date Posted: September 18, 2014 at 3:40 AM
Hi catback,

Iam almost certain the wiring isnt hooked up correctly, especially since it was previously installed in another vehicle and was working fine.
I did disconnect the hood pin trigger and it still does the same thing.

It is installed in a 1990 chevy pickup.

On the H-1 harness:
orange wire to: level sensor and also scanner light.
white wire to: parking light relay.
white with blue stripe wire: directly to ground (was planning to get the remote start to operate but stopped since im having to many issues).
Green wire: to door switch wire trigger for interior lights.
Blue wire: to level sensor.
Black wire: ground
Brown wire: horn +
Red wire: constant 12 +
H-3 Harness:
Grey wire: to hood trigger (grounding trigger)
Remote start harness:
Yellow wire: tapped in ignition 12+
Orange w/ black stripe wire: to stater kill relay.
Relay satellite:
Purple wire: to starter kill relay
green wire: to ignition switch to starter kill relay
(please note the starter kill operates when alarm is tripped/ truck isnt able to start)

Thank you in advance, please help.




Posted By: catback
Date Posted: September 18, 2014 at 11:44 AM
The WHITE/ blue should not be connected if your not using it, it's not necessary for remote start either. It has special use but is commonly unused.

Nothing should be wired to the remote start harness ribbon, it should only be connected to the satellite relay (and alarm brain of course). Ignition feed and ground-when-armed/anti-grind should be connected elsewhere.

On the H-1 harness:
orange wire to: level sensor and also scanner light.
white wire to: parking light relay.
**** white with blue stripe wire: NOT USED
Green wire: to door switch wire trigger for interior lights.
Blue wire: to level sensor.
Black wire: ground
Brown wire: horn +
Red wire: constant 12 +
H-3 Harness:
Grey wire: to hood trigger (grounding trigger)
Remote start harness:
**** Yellow wire: NOT CUT OR TAPPED, SATELLITE RELAY ONLY
**** Orange w/ black stripe wire: NOT CUT OR TAPPED, SATELLITE RELAY ONLY
Relay satellite:
**** Purple wire: cut vehicles yellow or purple starter wire, connect to starter side
**** green wire: cut vehicles yellow or purple starter wire, connect to ignition side
**** Red wires (2): to constant +12v source, Red wire at ignition
**** Orange wire: to orange wire at ignition
**** Pink wire: to pink wire at ignition
**** Pink/white wire: NOT USED
**** RED / White wire: NOT USED

**** (please note the starter kill...): the external starter kill can be omitted, is built-in to the satellite relay

**** Other required connections for remote start are as follows:
H3/1 BLACK/ White Neutral Safety Switch input
H3/2 Violot/White Tachometer input
H3/3 Brown Brake shutdown wire

Noted changes are marked with **** everything else appears acceptable.

Also your truck doesn't have power locks?




Posted By: wizwrath
Date Posted: September 19, 2014 at 3:41 AM
I just printed out your message and will get into it asap, at this time it doesnt have factory power locks, I wanted to add aftermarket actuators or do a factory conversion but stopped since i was having issues.

Again, THANK YOU VERY MUCH my brother!!!
I appreciate you taking your time and providing me with your knowledge. I will post back when I can get back into this.




Posted By: wizwrath
Date Posted: December 30, 2014 at 3:03 AM
I was wondering if these wires go to a 12 volt ignition source? Since it says:

**** Orange wire: to orange wire at ignition
**** Pink wire: to pink wire at ignition

The (at ignition) part is confusing, is it to a 12 volt ignition (while cranking or doesnt matter) source? Like the fuse block?

Thanks ALL!




Posted By: chek
Date Posted: December 30, 2014 at 6:08 AM
The heavy gauge orange wire goes to the accessory wire coming from ignition switch. It should have 12 volts when ignition is ON but not during crank. The heavy gauge pink wire goes to vehicles ignition wire coming from ignition switch. It has 12 volts when key is ON and during CRANK.




Posted By: wizwrath
Date Posted: December 30, 2014 at 3:09 PM
Hi Chek Copper,
Do I just tap into it or cut in half and butt connect it like the starter kill wires?

THANKS!




Posted By: chek
Date Posted: December 30, 2014 at 4:52 PM
Tap into the side. Don't cut any other wires. You need to physically strip insulation and spread the strands apart. Don't use t taps or you'll end up hating life.




Posted By: wizwrath
Date Posted: December 30, 2014 at 11:54 PM
THANK YOU CHEK, YOU ARE AWESOME!!!!




Posted By: wizwrath
Date Posted: December 31, 2014 at 12:03 AM
Iam also looking for a wiring schematic to install the micro door lock module/relay (451M) into a 1993 mustang 5.0, please help. Thank You.





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