ads-al-ca + avital 4103 + 2009 accord

So, I was really hoping I could figure it out myself, but here I am. :)

I just wanted to get verification that my wiring setup was correct. I tried installing it D2D, but upon attempting to set it up and program, it became clear that the seller failed to set it up to D2D per my instructions. I tried changing the mode to D2D and was unsuccessful. Nightfall made me cut the install short.

Before I pull everything apart again, I figured I'd just do it W2W and not have to deal with the potential problems. The highlighted items are the things I'm unsure about.





Is it possible to enable the rear defogger?

I have the EX-L model with automatic headlamps? Is it necessary to hook up the lighting harness on the ADS?

Thanks so much!

I'll go down the list

Activation Input: Is used to activate the remote start via a momentary push button mounted in the car

Ground When Locked: Is the equivalent of Ground-when-armed on an alarm system, it supplies a ground when the avital is locked. It is most commonly used for a starter kill relay.

4-pin Satellite: Don't worry about this connector

Starter Input: Connects to starter output of remote start unit (heavy gauge relay purple wire)

E-Brake Status: Connects to neutral safety switch input of remote start unit (BLACK/ white) - this wire supplies ground when the parking brake is applied.

GWR (Ground while Running) Input: Connects to blue status wire of remote start, the name gives away it's function.

Headlamp output: Connects to driver door pin/trigger, is used to turn off headlamp on vehicles equipped with automatic headlamps (lifted verbatim from the idatalink install guide)

Ground: Connected to ground, it is the ground path for the headlamp output - WHITE/ Black and White are part of an internal relay.

Possible to enable the rear defogger? Yes, you have to wire the 2nd status/defogger into the defogger trigger or control wire of the car and program the avital accordingly.

Necessary to hook up the idatalink headlamp output? No, it is not necessary but advised if you don't want your headlamp to stay on. You can try it either way.

Thanks for the reply!

Just to be clear, the RS' Activation Input and the Ground When Locked should have no connection, then?

Is the E-Brake status not required since the Accord is an automatic?

In a very basic install you won't use the activation input or ground when locked. However, on a remote start install if you plan on having anti-grind protection you would need to install a starter kill relay and the ground when locked would be used.

The E-Brake status is NOT required for function on an automatic.

So, I just wanted to say thanks for all the help. I've learned so much.

however, there is one issue that I can't seem to fix.

I can arm the factory alarm just fine when I use the OEM key fob. When I attempt to arm with the Avital's remote, I get all the doors to lock, the lights to dim, but no horn honk to verify that the alarm is set. I verified that the alarm is NOT set by sitting in the vehicle, locking the doors with the Avital fob and then opening the door. The alarm is not set. The anti-theft lighting on the dashboard is flashing, but the alarm is not fully armed. I also don't get any horn honks when I run through any of the Avital's programming, I don't get any horn honks when expected.

Any ideas?

You're not checking the factory alarm correctly to see if its armed.
The horn honk you hear when you press lock a second time on the OEM remote is just confirming that you locked the doors. That horn honk is not setting a factory alarm. Even if your car did not have a factory alarm it will make the horn honk with a second press.

With that being said, to check if you even have a factory alarm on your car, sit in the car with the OEM remote and close all the doors.
Press Lock on the OEM remote. It will arm with 1 or 2 presses of the OEM remote's lock button, again the 2nd press is just to let you know the doors are locked.

Wait one minute for the alarm to set.

After a minute has passed, unlock the door from the door panel(NOT the OEM remote) and open the door from the inside.

If there is a factory alarm you will hear it going off, disarm it with the OEM remote. If there is no horn honking, then you don't have a factory alarm.

If you do have a factory alarm, try the same steps above but this time use the Avital remote to verify that the alarm is being armed/disarmed.

If you want a horn honk when you use the Avital, you need to hook up the brown horn wire of the Avital to the Honda's horn wire. Then you need to turn the horn honk feature on in the Avital's menu. Just so you know thou, it will honk every time you press lock and twice when you press unlock on the Avital remote. It will do it on the first press also. So if you come in late at night or leave early in the morning you might not want to turn that feature on. If you hook up the wire, but don't turn the feature on, it will still honk the horn with the Avital for panic/car finder.

Awesome. I'm actually going to just leave the horn from the avital unhooked. I was worried it wasn't arming, but after following your insructions to test the alarm, it seems to be arming just fine.

Thanks so much!

So, now that it's cooling down and we're actually using the remote start, I've uncovered a problem.

While the remote start has activated (engine running), I am unable to lock/unlock the doors and/or pop the trunk. I'm guessing it has something to do with the GWR, but I'm not sure. Input?

Did you try to hook it up d2d or dbi
If the seller flashed it dbi you need to use data cable with red end.
If he flashed it d2d use all black cable.
Regardless the 4103 is coming with both ports now.
Usually it's a slam dunk d2d.

Hey metz, was that in reference to the last question? I was told it was flashed to w2w. I originally tried to hook it up via d2d and was having difficulty.

Everything is working except I'm unable to lock/unlock the doors/pop the trunk while the remote start is running.

It doesn't matter if it was flashed w2w.
When it gets power for the first time. It should be flashing green 1 time or 2 times. You can change the mode from the module. If it's flashing 2 times it w2w.
All you you do is push and release button. It should be flashing 1 time. That's d2d. Push and hold it should light up. Now it's off. Turn key in ignition light up solid green. Should be good to go.

If the locks work when the car is not running, it means you have the module set correctly. Typically, if the locks don't work when the car is remote started it means the installer didn't hook up the +starter input on the alca. Did you hook up the BLACK/ white on the module to the +starter wire in the car?

beegbie wrote:

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If the locks work when the car is not running, it means you have the module set correctly. Typically, if the locks don't work when the car is remote started it means the installer didn't hook up the +starter input on the alca. Did you hook up the BLACK/ white on the module to the +starter wire in the car?

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I actually called iDataLink's tech support and was told to check that and it did indeed fix the problem. Thanks for the reply!