viper issue

hello 12volt, I'm installing a viper 5706v into a 01 acura integra and i just finished wiring everything but i can't get the remote start to learn the tach which i figured would be the first thing to do (the control center button never lights up). When i hit the "alarm" button the car actually tried to start. when i hit "remote start" the car continuously tried starting and i had to pull the battery connection. i have the power wires disconnected now and was wondering if someone could double check my connections. thanks in advance.

Main Harness
h1/1 red + 12v constant input: 12v constant white, backup battery gray wire (12v constant)
h1/2 black - chassis ground: ground
h1/3 brown + siren output: siren
h1/4 WHITE/ brown parking light isolation: NC
h1/5 white parking light output: parking lights RED / black (green plug abouve fuse box)
h1/6 orange - ground when armed: 507m tilt sensor orange wire.

Remote Start
h2/1 NC
h2/2 RED / black +fused 12v accessory/starter input: 12v constant white
h2/3 pink/black +flex relay input 87a key side(if required) of flex relay: NC
h2/4 pink/white +ignition 2/ flex relay output: NC
h2/5 red +fused 12v ignition 1 input: 12v constant white
h2/6 green +starter input (key side of starter kill): starter BLACK/ white keyside will show 12v while cranking, starter side wont show a voltage
h2/7 violet +starter output (car side of starter kill): starter BLACK/ white
h2/8 orange +accessory output: accessory yellow wire
h2/9 RED / white +fused 12v ignition 2/ flex relay input 87: 12v constant white
h2/10 pink +ignition 1 input/output: ignition BLACK / YELLOW

Auxiliary/ Shutdown/ Trigger harness
h3/1 pink/white - 200ma ignition 2/ flex output: NC
h3/2 blue/white - 200ma 2nd status /rear defogger output: BLACK/ blue at clutch interlock system (cis) clutch override
h3/3 RED / white - 200ma trunk release output: NC
h3/4 BLACK / YELLOW - 200ma dome light output: splice into negative door trigger input (green wire) diode isolate
h3/5 dark blue - 200ma status output: NC
h3/6 WHITE/ black - 200ma aux 3 output: NC
h3/7 WHITE/ violet - 200ma aux 1 output: NC
h3/8 ORANGE / black - 200ma aux 4 output: Nc
h3/9 gray - hood pin input (nc or no): hood pin
h3/10 blue - trunk pin/instant trigger input (nc or no): 520t battery neggative blue wire, 507m tilt sensor neggative blue wire
h3/11 WHITE/ blue activation input: NC
h3/12 violet/white tachometer input: tach wire at guage cluster, blue wire
h3/13 BLACK/ white - neutral safety/parking brake input: wire at base of ebrake
h3/14 GREEN/ black - 200ma factory alarm disarm output: NC
h3/15 green - door input: lt. GREEN/ red larger gray plug behind cruise control
h3/16 BROWN / black -200ma horn honk output: blue/green steering column harness
h3/17 pink - 200ma ignition 1 output: NC
h3/18 violet + door input: NC
h3/19 volet/black - 200ma aux 2 output: NC
h3/20 brown + brake shutdown input: GREEN / WHITE brake wire switch above pedal
h3/21 violet / YELLOW - 200ma starter output: NC
h3/22 gray/black - diesel wait to start: NC
h3/23 orange - 200ma accessory output: NC
h3/24 GREEN / WHITE - 200ma factory alarm arm output: NC

Is the car an auto trans or manual?
And not tying to ask a dumb question is the car starter wire cut for the green and violet connections?

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Also by-pass?
I can't see anything wrong with the wiring, BTW shouldn't there be a keysense connected?
You shouldn't need dome supervision, the car already has it so disconnect the H2 BLACK / YELLOW.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I forgot to mentionthe car is a manual and I do have a pkh34 imobilizer bypass but I haven't plugged it in yet. And I don't think I need a key sense wire connected.
Yes the starter wire (BLACK/ white) is cut in half with violet going to car side and green going to key side. I don't have any relays installed yet tho so would that be the problem?
Also I have 5 seperate 12v wires so 3 of them are going to my 12v constant wire in the ignition harness while h1/1 and the 520t power wires are going to a 12v source on the fuse box which I confirmed with a multimeter. When I connected the 12v wires to the fuse box the car tried starting without me hitting any buttons...scared the crap out me. Any ideas what would cause this?

Have you tried to cancel the remote start by hitting the brake to shut it down?

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No I haven't tried that yet.
I just inspected the alarm and found one of the pins for the control center/valet button was bent so I fixed that and recconnected all the 12v wires. I then reconnect the battery terminal and my alarm immediately started going off and my car was trying to crank over at the same time. This is nuts.

As said before what you've listed looks good although I would probably diode isolate the 520t and 507m.

As for things to check, I'd recheck the aux harness and make sure the right wires are being used, that none of the pins are bent, and that it's not connected upside down.

Could try to disconnect the violet wire to the starter while you do your trouble shooting to determine what is wrong. At least it should keep the starter from cranking.
Stuck relay in the unit?

Check the end of the violet wire for voltage once it is disconnected.

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Lol good idea smoke, I'll give that a try tomorrow.
Catback I'm pretty sure I used the correct wires but I'll double check that and the harnesses. I didn't know you could put them in backwords so I'll definitely check that too.

You have your plug references incorrect, thus I'm starting to worry about other things.
You switched H2 with H3 in your first post.
By chance is the WHITE/ blue on H2 confused with the blue/white?
That will do what you described, I know because I pulled that trick with a key sense wire in a Toyota recently, as soon as you pushed the key into the ignition, off it went.
PS I did an 05 Civic Type R recently, until I did the key sense you couldn't unlock the vehicle during R/Start.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

alright guys I've sort of narrowed it down.
Howie if you mean the remote start harness should be h3/1-10 and auxillary/trigger harness should be h2/1-24 then my bad but all the wire colors are correctly matched with the corresponding wire as far as my reference install guide shows. And i have the WHITE/ blue wire caped off.

so today i had most of the wires connected except the ground wires and the 12v h1/1 were left disconnected. Every time i touched the h1/1 wire to a 12v source the car tried to start, even with the ground wires disconnected. so i started disconnecting wires and i found the issue is with my h1/5 (parking light output). If i have this wire removed i can connect all my other wires without the car trying to start. (i re-tested my RED / black parking light wire in the car with a multimeter and it shows -.1 with lights off, -.2 with parking lights, and -.3 with headlights on so i believe its the correct wire).
currently this is what i have connected:
h1/1 red + 12v constant input: 12v constant white, backup battery gray wire (12v constant)
h1/2 black - chassis ground: ground
h2/2 RED / black +fused 12v accessory/starter input: 12v constant white
h2/5 red +fused 12v ignition 1 input: 12v constant white
h2/6 green +starter input (key side of starter kill): starter BLACK/ white keyside will show 12v while cranking, starter side wont show a voltage
h2/7 violet +starter output (car side of starter kill): starter BLACK/ white
h2/8 orange +accessory output: accessory yellow wire
h2/9 RED / white +fused 12v ignition 2/ flex relay input 87: 12v constant white
h2/10 pink +ignition 1 input/output: ignition BLACK / YELLOW
h3/12 violet/white tachometer input: tach wire at guage cluster, blue wire
h3/13 BLACK/ white - neutral safety/parking brake input: wire at base of ebrake
h3/15 green - door input: lt. GREEN/ red larger gray plug behind cruise control

With those connected the control center flashes and the alarm brain makes a clicking noise for awhile before it goes away and i just have the flashing control center.
so i tried to start the car to learn the tach but the car wont start (if i disconnect the ground wires then the car will start).
I then reconnected the parking light wire and soon as my key hit the key cylinder the alarm went off and my car was trying to crank over so i disconnected that wire again and i have the grounds disconnected so i can start my car for the time being.
Anyone have an idea of what is wrong here?

I just thought of something. Hondas are suppose to have a positive parking light plarity but i believe mine is negative. i had the red probe in the parking light wire and the black probe touching a ground and i got a -.01 reading so this means my parking light polarity is negative correct?
if thats the case i should just be able to switch the alarm brain to negative polarity and everything will work?

1.Are there any other RED / Black wires around that you can check?

2.Leave that wire disconnected and continue with the install and figure out the parking light issue later.

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hooskerdoo wrote:

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With those connected the control center flashes and the alarm brain makes a clicking noise for awhile before it goes away and i just have the flashing control center.
so i tried to start the car to learn the tach but the car wont start (if i disconnect the ground wires then the car will start).

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Disarm the system to disable the starter kill. The RED / black wire you tested does not appear to be the parking light wire. "-0.1" up to "-0.3" is for all intents and purposes 0V and because it tests as 0 with lights off and on it doesn't look like the right wire.

Thanks guys for all the help. I got the system to disarm and everything is working now except for my immobilizer bypass. It wouldn't connect with d2d so I'm trying to track down my key sync and data wires now. if anyone knows how I can find these wires in an 01 Integra that'd be amazing.

Might be wrong but I very much doubt if an Integra of that age has key sync and data.
Probably need a key in the box by-pass.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Howie your probably right. I found out that even though I was using d2d with the pkh34 I still had to use the power wire from the other plug for it to work. I still couldn't get it to succefully program to my car though so I broke down and purchased the 556u. Once I get it in the mail I think I'll be good. Thanks for all your help guys.