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viper 5204v car wont start

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=137553
Printed Date: April 19, 2024 at 4:34 PM


Topic: viper 5204v car wont start

Posted By: rujoesmith
Subject: viper 5204v car wont start
Date Posted: October 28, 2014 at 1:40 AM

98 civic ex MT, Viper 5204v

So I just finished hooking everything up on my first install but cant get the car to start with the key or the remote. Everything works except starting the car. I think I may have wired something wrong because the unit dies when I turn the key to the second position. Here is how I have wired the ignition. I can also post the other wiring if it is relevant.

H3/1 -> BLACK / YELLOW (ignition)
H3/2 -> white (const 12v)
H3/3 -> WHITE/ black (accesory)
H3/4 -> BLACK/ white car site (starter)
H3/5 -> BLACK/ white key side (starter)
H3/6 -> white (const 12v)
H3/7 -> yellow (ignition 2)
H3/8 -> not attached
H3/9 -> white (const 12v)

Also, the neutral safety switch is in the on position.

Here is a link to the ignition harness for my car:
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/1051.html

Any ideas on what I may have done wrong?



Replies:

Posted By: catback
Date Posted: October 28, 2014 at 9:49 AM
What you list above looks to be correct. Not sure what you mean by the unit dies when you turn the key to the second position.

Have you tested wires function before connecting them? With the 5204v disarmed you should be able to start the car with the key.




Posted By: rujoesmith
Date Posted: October 28, 2014 at 1:05 PM
We'll I was trying everything to get it started, and I found that when the key was in the second position I couldn't arm/disarm and the button on the antenna did nothing.

I have not tested the wires myself, I was just going off of what I read in multiple places on the internet. I'll have to try that today, just to be sure.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 28, 2014 at 1:55 PM
If the second position is IGN then of course the remotes won't work, IGN overrides the alarm.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: rujoesmith
Date Posted: October 28, 2014 at 5:44 PM
Ok thanks I diddnt realize that, it's my first install so I'm learning as I go. Do you have any ideas why it might not be letting me start using the key? I know theres other wiring that could be preventing the remote start from working, but I'm at a loss as to what would cause me not to be able to start it normally.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 28, 2014 at 5:58 PM
Show all your wiring and where it's connected.
Check the engine bay fuses, you're looking at a 40-60 amp blown fuse.


-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: rujoesmith
Date Posted: October 28, 2014 at 10:41 PM
I havent wired everthing up yet, but heres what i do have

H1/1 -> white (12v const on ignition)
H1/2 -> chasis Ground
H1/3 -> Siren+
H1/4 -> not attached
H1/5 -> not attached
H1/6 -> chasis Ground

H2/16 -> directly to brake wire
H2/23 -> blue wire from dizzy




Posted By: catback
Date Posted: October 28, 2014 at 11:07 PM
H1/6 should not be grounded




Posted By: catback
Date Posted: October 29, 2014 at 6:53 AM
Why is the H2/16 BROWN / black horn output hooked to your brake wire

Further what is a "dizzy" and why is it hooked to H2/23 orange (-) Accessory output?

I also have to ask, manual trans? Have you bypassed the clutch?




Posted By: rujoesmith
Date Posted: October 29, 2014 at 8:46 AM
According no my manual H2/16 is "+ brake shutdown input", and H2/23 is "tachometer input". By dizzy I meant distributor, the blue wire coming off of it is for the tachometer.

Its a manual trans. No I have not bypassed the clutch yet, I totally forgot about that




Posted By: catback
Date Posted: October 29, 2014 at 9:09 AM
Ok your right, a note for future reference Directed is notorious for changing pin numbering in manuals. It's best to reference wire color as well. I was looking at the quick reference sheet and it numbers the pins different than the full install guide.

Still H1/6 shouldn't be grounded.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 29, 2014 at 9:13 AM
They changed only the numbered positions a year ago so giving us your numbers without colours is useless.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: catback
Date Posted: October 29, 2014 at 9:29 AM
Job security for the writer of the manuals posted_image




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 29, 2014 at 9:33 AM
Really? I use to play spot the typo with their manuals, Clifford were the worst.
One UK Viper product actually gives you different ways to add a remote on the install and owner manuals.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: rujoesmith
Date Posted: October 29, 2014 at 10:58 AM
Ok ill keep in mind to post colors from now on. Do you think having the GWA hooked to ground would prevent the car from starting with the key?

Im just trying to figure out what I can do different this time because I had to unhook everything. The car runs fine after putting everything back so its definitely something im doing wrong with the wiring.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 29, 2014 at 11:05 AM
It won't make any difference although it's wrong is a NEG signal going to NEG.
We already knew something was wrong with your wiring.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: catback
Date Posted: October 30, 2014 at 12:41 AM
rujoesmith wrote:

Do you think having the GWA hooked to ground would prevent the car from starting with the key?



If one is utilizing the starter kill/anti-grind I have little doubt in that causing the problem.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 30, 2014 at 3:38 AM
Good point. But that's why we asked the OP "what colours go where".

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: catback
Date Posted: October 30, 2014 at 10:58 AM
The pin numbering on the heavy gauge remote start harness is hard to mess up even for a DEI manual writer so it's as you would expect 1-9.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 30, 2014 at 11:03 AM
They used to go up down 1-2 then the reverted to left right wire side on the 24 pin plug so what was 2 is now 13.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: catback
Date Posted: October 30, 2014 at 11:12 AM
The H3 aka heavy gauge remote start harness is only one row so like I said much harder to mess up. But now that I've said something a future manual will have it messed up good somehow.





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