2010 highlander hybrid limited & ft-7200

Hi, I just installed a Compustar 7200 with a Blade AL in my 2010 Hylander Hybrid (US Model).

I followed all the vague blade directions.

• Connected the Canbus, Ignition with diode, start switch
• Added Ground & Power
• Flashed the blade with the Balde-AL(DL)-TL1-EN firmware.
• Dissconnected the factory RS (was getting 5 red flashes) indicating a conflist
• Light on blade turns blue when powered on
• connected the Drone DR-3000 and registered it.
• All connections are soldered

I can lock and unlock the doors with the iPhone, so my guess is the Canbus is working. When I try and start with the iPhone, The phone buzzes like it was successful, but all that happens is the doors lock. The Drone log shows a remote start command and a romote start error(no specifics).

Here is where it gets really strange. If I used the factory remote or a trigger line to try and start it. The drone light flashes blue, the dash lights up then everything turns off and it keeps cycling.

I am using the low current connections on the 7200 as all the wires I am connecting to are really small. I did a quick test using the high current connector and had the same results.

My gut feel is that it is related to the configuration of the starter or the blade.

Any advise would be greatly appreciated. I am completely stumped.

Greg

I made a little more progress. I realized that I had to disconnect more that the one connector on the factory RS. I can now start the vehicle with the factory remote and the trigger wire.

The Drone still acts strange. I can lock and unlock the doors but the start does not work.

Very strange...

Greg

Sooo, it "looks" like it starts with the OEM remotes but the check engine light and others are on so I believe it is turning the car "ON' but not starting the engine.

These Hybrids are weird because the engine does not come on immediately when you start the car.

I was messing with the tach settings and set it to look for a tach signal just to see what the error would be. Sure enough it gave me a tach learning error on the iPhone and in the drone mobile log. I put it back to tackless and when I try and start with the iPhone, the phone buzzes like it was successful, lock the doors, and there is a "Start error" in the drone mobile log.

Greg

Have you tried setting program 2-10 to option 4? Here is a description of this setting :
2-10 Opt 4 - No connection Assumed running: (aka engine sense off) Note: can only be used with
automatic transmission. This option provides a 3 second starter output, leave the rest of the CM7
ignition and accessory outputs on and consider the vehicle running. Note: This is a good option for
(PTS) Push To Start applications and Hybrid vehicles (except manual transmission).

On some Hybrids it helps to leave the Heat controls in an A/C setting that will cycle the compressor( windshield defrost ).

Last possibility is a conflict with the Factory Remote Start system. Not sure but you might have to remove it.

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Soldering is fun!

That is the "tachless" mode I am using. It's funny, the instructions refer to a mode that provides a 3 second crank for PTS vehicles but the option is not available. The one in the online config tool provides a 1.5 second crank. I doubt that the crank time is the issue. I wonder if anyone from iDatalink surfs these forums. I'm starting to think it is in issue with the firmware.

Thanks for the reply. Some times it is the obvious that was overlooked.

Greg

Does anyone know how to activate the defrost ( front and/or rear) on a 2010 Toyota Highlander Hybrid. I assume (hope) there is a connection on an ECM panel.

Thanks,

Greg