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mazda 3 with dball2 and avital 4103 issue

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=137684
Printed Date: May 15, 2024 at 1:23 PM


Topic: mazda 3 with dball2 and avital 4103 issue

Posted By: jmdirk
Subject: mazda 3 with dball2 and avital 4103 issue
Date Posted: November 14, 2014 at 1:10 PM

I'm trying to install an Avital 4103 Remote Starter in a 2013 Mazda 3 (standard key, NOT smart key) and using a DBALL2 as the bypass/interface module in D2D mode.

The DBALL2 install instructions list two type of install; Type 1 for 2010-2013 and Type 2 for 2004-2009. The difference in the install types being mainly that Type doesn't interface to the CAN bus while Type 1 does.

The problem I'm encountering is that when I program the keys for the DBALL2, the behavior is that of the Type 2.

- Following the procedure I reset the DBALL2 and the LED comes on solid Red indicating that it's waiting for programming.
- I insert the first key (both keys are OEM), turn the ignition to the ON position. LED starts flashing green, wait until the security light goes out and remove the key
- Insert the second key, LED starts flashing Orange. Wait until the Security light goes out remove the key
- Apply 12V to the ignition line and instead of the LED starting to flash green, it flashes red 10 times.
- If I follow the Type 2 (non CAN bus) proceed and press the programming button 5 times, the DBALL2 finishes the programming

Using the Avital fob, the DBALL2 correctly interprets the signals over the D2D connection. Door lock/unlock works, but none of the the CAN bus features work.

The strange thing is, I had it programmed successfully one time. And then in trouble shooting another issue with the starter relay not energizing on the the Avital, I reset the DBALL2 and now can't get it to recognize the CAN bus again.

I have the TAN CAN-H wire connected (soldered) to the wire CAN-H wire at the OBD2 port and the TAN/BLACK CAN-L wire connected to the red CAN-L in the same place.

Anyone have any insights as what may be the problem?



Replies:

Posted By: rcb11
Date Posted: November 14, 2014 at 1:57 PM
Hi jmdirk

When you reset the Dball2 did you do a module reset or hard reset? I wonder if it lost it's firmware, can you re-flash it?




Posted By: jmdirk
Date Posted: November 14, 2014 at 3:02 PM
I've tried module reset, hard reset, I've tried reflashing the firmware a number of times and still no love. :(





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