have it wired up nothing works except the panic button. i had to run universal door lock atuators that i tested with a bettery and they work fine. its a base model ranger. i dont get it?
What did you use as the transponder bypass module? You didn't list your location but all U.S. market vehicle have an ignition immobilizer system.
Did the power lock add-on come as a kit with a controller or relays?
Might help if you gave us some more info. Here is the 4103 connector listing, just add the vehicle wires you connected to :
Avital 4103
H1/1 LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK FACTORY ALARM DISARM
H1/2 GREEN / WHITE FACTORY REARM
H1/3 YELLOW (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM)
H1/4 WHITE/ BLUE (-) ACTIVATION INPUT
H1/5 ORANGE (-) GROUND WHEN LOCKED
H1/6 BROWN (-) HORN OUTPUT
H1/7 RED / WHITE (-) TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT
H1/8 BLACK GROUND
H1/9 WHITE (+/-) LIGHT FLASH
H2/1 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT
H2/2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE
H2/3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE
H2/4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE
H2/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT
4-pin satellite harness diagram
1 BLUE STATUS OUTPUT
2 ORANGE (-) ACCESSORY OUTPUT
3 PURPLE (-) STARTER OUTPUT
4 PINK (-) IGNITION OUTPUT
Heavy gauge relay wiring diagram
1 PINK (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO IGNITION CIRCUIT
2 PURPLE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO STARTER CIRCUIT
3 ORANGE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT
4 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12 INPUT
5 PINK/WHITE (+) PROGRAMMABLE OUTPUT FOR ACCESSORY OR IGNITION
6 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT
Door lock harness, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) LOCK OUTPUT
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Soldering is fun!
h1/2/3 not connected. h1/4 not connected h1/5 orange not connected h1 redwhite not ocnnected
the door locks came seperate i have only the driver door hooked up directly to the blue green on the module. maybe this is wrong. idk. i dont relaly care wether or not the locks work just the remote start
i also dont have a bypass module. its a base model 2006 ranger no chip key
I was thinking of something like this :
H1/1 LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK FACTORY ALARM DISARM Not Used
H1/2 GREEN / WHITE FACTORY REARM Not Used
H1/3 YELLOW (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM) Not Used
H1/4 WHITE/ BLUE (-) ACTIVATION INPUT Not Used
H1/5 ORANGE (-) GROUND WHEN LOCKED Not Used
H1/6 BROWN (-) HORN OUTPUT Yellow/Lt. Green to Dk. Blue (-) @ clockspring switch plug
H1/7 RED / WHITE (-) TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT Not Used
H1/8 BLACK GROUND Chassis Ground
H1/9 WHITE (+/-) LIGHT FLASH ** 4103 jumper set to (+) Brown (+) @ SJB, Brown plug, Pin 8
ETC......
For the added lock actuator solenoids you will need relays and a circuit like this Actuators / Reverse Polarity diagram :
https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#arp
If the truck starts with a plain metal key, then no bypass is needed.
And just for the record, it is an automatic transmission, right?
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Soldering is fun!
For your door locks actuator to work you need a pair of relays and wiring diagram A found here in the forum in relays section and for the remote start to work you need a bypass regardless of the trim of the vehicle in some cases like mine you don't need a bypass BUT you still need to do some modifications in the ignition of the truck.
I install a avital 5103 on a 04 Chevy Colorado all works great no bypass but I had to cut a wire in the ignition harness to stop the passlock from triggering