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crimestopper rs1-g3: not responding

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=137764
Printed Date: April 27, 2024 at 6:24 PM


Topic: crimestopper rs1-g3: not responding

Posted By: reopfd4mwtnmq77
Subject: crimestopper rs1-g3: not responding
Date Posted: November 22, 2014 at 7:43 PM

I have an RS1-G3 Crimestopper remote starter installed in a 2012 Subaru Impreza.

The 2 remotes are not working to start the car. There is not acknowledgement from the vehicle (and no status LED to check on the starter) when the remote is used.

I replaced the batteries in the remotes. In an attempt to re-program the remotes, I opened the hood, put the car to ON, and pressed the valet button 4 times as described on page 21 of the manual:

https://www.crimestopper.com/Templates/2009_manuals/RemoteStart/rs-1-3-4_ins.pdf

There is no indication (lights blinking, horn sounding, etc...) that the starter is ready to program one of the remotes.

1. What can I put a multi-meter on to make sure the starter is getting power?
2. Reprogram instructions say "Pink wire must be connected!". Are they referring to the heavy gauge "12V ignition output 30A"? The much smaller pink accessory wire was cut/removed by the installer.

The grey 12v accessor output is going to a yelow heavy gauge wire on the harness on the vehicle.

The pink 12 ignition output is going to a green heavy gauge wire on the harness.


I'm looking for a bump in the right direction toward verifying the starter is still receiving power, and how I can go about reprogramming the remotes, or more generally what a next step should be.



Replies:

Posted By: metz35
Date Posted: November 22, 2014 at 8:42 PM
Check the (2) 30 amp fuses make sure there good.
Manually ground the hood pin wire. Incase the switch is bad.
Yes they are referring to large pink. Little pink is wait to start wire.
Then try to reprogram.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 22, 2014 at 8:45 PM

Yes, the thick Pink wire from the 6 Pin harness is the Ignition wire and must see +12V when the key is turned to ON.
That is a necessary step in the remote programming process.

Think I would verify a few things :
1. Verify that the antenna harness connections are seated completely.   Sometimes just cleaning the inside windshield
    will knock this connection loose.  Vibration can loosen the other side at the R/S controller.
2. Use your DMM to verify +12V power is seen at the thick Red wires in the 6 Pin ignition harness.  Both should be
    12V at all times.  If not check the fuses upstream and the actual connections to the vehicle.
3. On the R/S controller 12 Pin harness, there should be an unused Green wire.   Try giving that wire a momentary
    ground input with a jumper wire.  Make sure the hood is closed and the brake pedal is not depressed.  The engine
    should start.



-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: reopfd4mwtnmq77
Date Posted: November 23, 2014 at 10:55 AM
Both reds on the 6 pin ignition harness have 12v as they should.

The antenna harness is well connected at both ends.

There is no green on the 12pin harness:

- orange
- yellow
- ORANGE / black
- white
- yellow
- brown

- pink
- grey
- PURPLE / black
- RED / black
- red
- black

The only light gauge wire I see that is green is a single wire coming off a plug on the reverse side of the R/S. This wire is connected to a light GREEN/ black wire on a harness by the door. It's not the ODB2 harness; I'm not yet sure what it is. Door lock?

The gray negative hood pin wire coming off the 12 pin harness was cut at the harness by the installer. He actually did a really poor job from what I've learned here on the12volt: all connections were done purely with electrical tape. No solder, no connectors. I know where to look first if future problems arise...

I couldn't get a grab on the hood pin wire, so I stuck a piece of wire in against the pin on the harness plug and grounded that to the car. I turned the car to ON, pressed the valet button 4 times, and it responded! Programmed my remotes and started the car!

Now to patch everything back up.

Thanks for the help guys!




Posted By: metz35
Date Posted: November 23, 2014 at 1:38 PM
Awesome. The un-grounded hood pin on the old crimestoppers is usually the culprit 9 out of 10 times.
Generation 4 and 5 you no longer need a grounded hood pin to enter programming.

Glad it worked!




Posted By: 039C3
Date Posted: January 18, 2016 at 7:56 AM
metz35 wrote:

Awesome. The un-grounded hood pin on the old crimestoppers is usually the culprit 9 out of 10 times.
Generation 4 and 5 you no longer need a grounded hood pin to enter programming.

Glad it worked!

I hope it is OK to bring up an older thread. I found this during a search. If it is not, I'll be glad to post a new thread.

I have a Crimestopper/Fortress FS-89 and it is doing pretty much the same thing. I don't know what generation it is. I tried it with the hood pin open and closed and then ran a jumper wire from ground to the pin and it won't respond. This seems to be an intermittent problem, as at first I could not program the remote, then after it did, the system acts like it is not recognized since I can't enter program mode (4x valet switch) or if I can it does not recognize either remote. It is auto-unlocking the doors (default setting) when I turn the key off, so I know it has power. The touchscreen remote has an icon in the upper left that looks like a satellite dish that has an x by it that was not present when the remote was connected. It has power and is grounded to a factory ground location. The antenna is plugged in securely and is located on the A-pillar by the windshield.

Thanks for any advice.





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