2013 camry with avital 4113 and dball

Hello

I am about to install the avital rs and dball for the 2013 camry G key.

Installation type 6 firmware TL7. I follow the diagram on DBALL kit.

Black @ RS -------> Ground chassis in car.
Parking light (-) @ RS ------> Headlamp switch Pink 18 wire in car.

Green Lock output @ RS ------> Red wire at white 30pin plug (PIN11) Factory Alarm Arm in car.

Blue Unlock output @ RS -----> Gray wire at white 30pin plug (pin 23) Factory Alarm Disarm in car.

[B]6-pin Heavy Gauge wires:[/B]

2 red 12v from RS -----> Green @ ignition switch in car
Pink ignition RS ------> Black @ ignition switch in car
Violet Starter RS -----> Blue @ ignition switch in car
Orange accessory RS ----> white @ ignition switch in car
Pink/White ignition 2 RS -----> pink @ igntion switch in car.
** For second starter, i used relay

85 to ground
87 to 12volt
85 to first starter blue @ ignition switch in car.
30 to second starter wire Light Green @ ignition switch in car.


Connection from DBALL to RS

10-Pin harness:

Pink ignition input from Dball ---> Ignition 1 Pink @ RS


12-Pin harness:

Yellow/black @ Dball ---> SIL: Pin 7 @ OBDII

14-Pin harness:

Tan/Black HS CAN high @ DBall ---> CAN HIGH: Pin 6 @ OBD II
Tan HS CAN low @ Dball ----------> CAN LOW: Pin 14 @ OBD II
Yellow/Red @ Dball --------------> Auto Headlamp cut wire to car.
ORANGE / Red @ Dball --------------> Auto headlamp cut wire headlamp switch.

Red 12volts @ Dball -------------> 12volt source in car
Black @ Dball -------------------> Ground




I wonder if these connections are correct/enough or wrong please help me. Thank so much members.

I also need to use Master key (black) to do the programming.

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DCD

Some thoughts / corrections :

Black @ RS -------> Ground chassis in car.      OK
Parking light (-) @ RS ------> Headlamp switch Pink 18 wire in car.     Set 4113 jumper to (-)

Green Lock output @ RS ------> Red wire at white 30pin plug (PIN11) Factory Alarm Arm in car.    OK
  
Blue Unlock output @ RS -----> Gray wire at white 30pin plug (pin 23) Factory Alarm Disarm in car.    OK

[B]6-pin Heavy Gauge wires:[/B]

2 red 12v from RS -----> Green @ ignition switch in car         Might consider going to thick wire @ fuse box.
Pink ignition RS ------> Black @ ignition switch in car OK
Violet Starter RS -----> Blue @ ignition switch in car     OK
Orange accessory RS ----> white @ ignition switch in car         OK
Pink/White ignition 2 RS -----> pink @ ignition switch in car.       OK
** For second starter, i used a 30/40 amp SPDT relay

85 to Avital 4113 thin Purple @ Pin 3 of 4-pin satellite harness (  (-) Starter output )
86 & 87 to + 12volt constant through 20 amp fuse
30 to second starter wire Light Green @ ignition switch in car.

It looks like you plan to go D2D mode between the Avital and the DB-ALL.  In that case the D2D harness handles many
functions, including suppling +12V and ground, so these connections are not needed :

Red 12volts @ Dball -------------> 12volt source in car
Black @ Dball -------------------> Ground

Also remember to switch the Avital 4113's ESP/Data port over the D2D.  Here is the process :
First check the 4113 to see what mode it is in.
1. Apply power to the 4103 and watch the Red LED.  If it comes on solid Red for 5 seconds on power up, it is in ESP
    mode and needs to be switched over to DBI D2D mode.  It it blinks for 5 seconds on power up, it is in DBI D2D mode
    and all ready to go.

 Avital /  Python BitWriter/ESP to DBI D2D mode data port change over.

To use as D2D mode follow the below steps:
1. Remove all power from the OK R/S brain.
2. Make sure Avital's WHITE/ Blue activation wire is grounded.
3. Power the unit up. The system LED flashes for 5 seconds to confirm D2D mode change.
4. Remove the WHITE/ Blue wire from ground.  ( Do this cleanly, without pulsing the WHITE/ Blue wire.)

The Avital 4113 system is a one button R/S system.  It will remote start the engine and if the engine is remote started,
it can be used to unlock the doors.  That is good because the Factory remotes do not function while the engine is
running.  Unless you do some fancy wiring, you will not be able to do a "Pit Stop" or "Idle Mode" with the 4113.

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Soldering is fun!

If I could not get D2D to work for some reason. I would also try W2W.

Can you please also correct me if i am wrong. Thanks

The thick wires connected as above.

2 pin wires lock/unlock:

Blue unlock (-) @ Rs ---> Factor alarm disarm Gray @ car dash fuse box White 30pin, pin 24
Green lock (-) @ rs ---> Factory Alarm arm Red @ car........, Pin 11.

4-pin satellite wires:

Blue (-) 200mA status output @ rs ---> Blue/white GWR input @ Dball
other wires not used.

5-pin wires:

BLACK/ white @ RS ---> Ground
Violet/white Tach input @ RS ---> Tach output Violet/white @ Dball
Brown brake shut down @ RS ----> Brake status output Gray @ Dball
Grey hood pin shutdown @ RS ----> hood status output Blue/Red @ Dball
Blue/white 2nd status output/defogger @ Rs not used


9-pin wires:

White parking light output(-) @ RS -----> pin #18 @ headlight switch in car.
Black @ RS ---> Ground
Brown Horn Output @ RS ---> Horn Trigger Light blue @ Car dash fuse box 40-pin Pin #15.
other wires - not used?


note:

Red 12volt from Dball, Ground from Dball, HS Can high and Low, Auto headlamp shut off wires from DBall will be connected as same as the first section.

If i go for W2W, I do not need to plug the D2D connectors into the DBall and RS, right?

I know i am missing something so I need your help in correcting this for me, Thanks again.



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DCD

Actually it looks pretty good. 

You caught the typo ( that I missed too ) on the Pin number of the vehicles Unlock wire ( 24 vs 23 ).

A caution with the Hood Pin output from the DB-ALL.   If your Camry does not have the Factory Hood Pin switch, the
DB-ALL  will not be able to supply the output for the 4113 to use.  Test by opening the hood while the engine is running
under a remote start.  The R/S should shutdown.  If this doesn't happen, install the 4113 kit supplied hood pin and
connect the 4113's Gray wire to it instead of the DB-ALL.

If you are going with your external Starter2 relay wiring instead of mine, three things to mention :

85 to ground     *
87 to 12volt       **
85 to first starter blue @ ignition switch in car.    ***
30 to second starter wire Light Green @ ignition switch in car.

* Wired this way, the relay will be energized during a normal key start, too.  If you want the relay to only output during
a remote start, connect Pin 85 to the unused 4113 H2/5  BLUE/WHITE  (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT.
The default programming for this wire is 2nd Status an correct for this usage.

**  It would be best to install an appropriate sized fuse in this +12V input wire

***  Another typo.  It should be Pin 86 for the (+) relay coil input.

If you were planning to use my suggested wiring for the external Starter2 relay, then :

4-pin satellite wires:

Blue (-) 200mA status output @ rs ---> Blue/white GWR input @ Dball
other wires not used

Should be :

4-pin satellite wires:

  Blue (-) 200mA status output @ rs ---> Blue/white GWR input @ Dball
  PURPLE  (-) STARTER OUTPUT to Relay Pin 85

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Soldering is fun!

Kreg makes a very valid point ref. the relay. The manufacturer keeps the two starter circuits for good reason, please try to make your install correspond to the manufacturer specifications, I can assure you it will save you expensive grief in the future.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok

I will use your suggested second starter relay

85 to Avital 4113 thin Purple @ Pin 3 of 4-pin satellite harness ( (-) Starter output )
86 & 87 to + 12volt constant through 20 amp fuse
30 to second starter wire Light Green @ ignition switch in car.

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DCD

How do i switch avital 4103 esp/data port to d2d?

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DCD

I am not a big Avital 41x3 user.   I also usually go W2W so the D2D port doesn't come into play except with the BitWriter
and I've never had any issues there. 

But, here is what I think is supposed to happen...

When you have the Avital 41x3 all wired up and plug in the fuses, the LED on the side of the controller is supposed to
either...   ( you can also just connect the two thick Red wires to +12V and then the Black Chassis Ground wire to -)
A.) Come on solid Red for 5 seconds
or
B.) Blink Red for 5 seconds.

If it comes on solid Red, you are in ESP BitWriter Mode.  If it blinks Red for 5 seconds, you are in D2D mode.  I played
with several units I have in stock and all but one worked this way.  ( The one that didn't work correctly gave no LED at
power up.  The unit programmed OK with the BitWriter and I used it for a W2W install with no issues.)

Now, to switch modes, here are the steps :
 Avital /  Python BitWriter/ESP to DBI mode port change over.

To use as D2D mode follow the below steps:
1. Remove all power from the Avital R/S brain.
2. Make sure Avital's WHITE/ Blue activation wire is grounded.
3. Power the unit up. The system LED flashes for 5 seconds to confirm D2D mode change.
4. Remove the WHITE/ Blue wire from ground.  ( Do this cleanly, without pulsing the WHITE/ Blue wire.)

Of course, if you were in D2D Mode already, then at Step 3, you would get a solid Red Led for 5 seconds, and you would
be switched back to ESP/BitWriter Mode.

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Soldering is fun!