4103lx 2002 hyundai santa fe

I am considering purchasing the 4103 to install into my wifes car, and I have the wiring chart from commando car alarms to help me out, but I was wondering if anyone had a pictorial or video of a install? Is there anything I really need to look for? I was hoping to be able to install the system using some wire taps and not stripping or soldering anything, will that be possible?
Thank you for the help.

There is no specific Pictorial currently on the 12Volt for your vehicle.  Bulldog Security has a generic install video :
https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/remoteStartervideo.html

The Avital 4103 system will work for you 2002 Santa Fe.  Most likely, you don't have a transponder based ignition
immobilizer system, so you won't need a bypass module.  You can verify this by getting a $1.99 hardware store
key made and trying it out.  If the engine starts and runs for at least a minute or so, no transponder system.

There are several Pictorials on newer Hyundai's and KIA's posted and I'm sure there are similarities between the
vehicles. 

Here is a link to Bulldog Security for their wire guide : https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.aspx

Here is a link to ReadyRemote : https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Hyundai&model=Santa Fe

As for using T-Taps or similar ilk, "Hey, it's your car".  Seriously though, there are only a dozen connections to the vehicle
and your wife will be driving it.  Why not spend the extra time to neatly strip and solder all the connections?

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Soldering is fun!

Kreg is right-on as usual. A few other thoughts:

---Your car will not have an immobilizer.

---Does your car have a factory alarm? (Most of these cars do.) Do you still have the OEM remote? Can you arm and disarm the alarm by turning the key in the driver's door from the outside? I always thought the alarm was ONLY controllable by the OEM remote, but I could be wrong.

---Plastic is brittle in these cars, especially when cold. Run the car for a little while with the heater as hot as possible before working.

---The bulbs in the instrument cluster burn out frequently in these. I recently had a customer blame me for this. Even though it's your wife's car, check that the entire cluster lights up at night with the lights on.

As far as soldering them on, what is the worst that could happen, the remote start would not work because of a bad contact right? It wouldn't be a safety issue would it?
-- I don't have the immobilizer
-- I do have a factory alarm with key fob. door unlock disarms the alarm I suppose there is only 2 buttons. I thought that the new fob with the system would perform the same task?
Thanks for the help.

Hanly:

1: You're correct in that generally, a failed connection should only result in the aftermarket accessory (the remote starter, in this case) failing to function until it is fixed.

The only exception would be when a wire in the car is cut in half as part of the installation---a starter kill circuit, for example. If the connection failed, the car wouldn't start.

So yes......I generally do a military splice without soldering. Even though many professional installers frown upon it, I've tried to keep an open mind and I've experimented with Scotchloks and T-taps.

Doing this every day for a living, I've found that the T-taps don't really save me any time, and they do add a good bit of cost (maybe $1-2?) to each installation.

The small handful of cars I did with Scotchloks, not all of them came back, but a couple of them did. I'll admit that the Scotchloks did save a good amount of time, though.

So.....even though you'll see a lot of installers being very strongly against these connectors, your opinion is true. You could use them, and since the car is probably in your driveway every way anyway, it would be easy enough for you to go in and fix it. You wouldn't have to make a round trip to and from a car dealership or customer's house, as I would.

On the other hand, we professionals have the "batting average" thing on our side. If I do 100 cars for a dealership and 1 comes back, they still realize that overall, my failure rate is only 1%. If you do one car and it stops working, your failure rate is 100%.

I suppose it really depends on how easygoing your wife is if it stops working one day. But you are right----it would be easy to go back in and fix a failed connection.

2: I may or may not be right about the arm/disarm thing. I worked on those cars a lot when they were new, but it's been a long time. Although I did do a 2006 last week.

Anyway, do the following:

---Close all doors, trunk, hood.
---Lock doors with OEM remote.
---Wait at least 30 seconds; waiting a few minutes is even better.
---Unlock the door by turning the key in the driver's door, then open the door.
---Does the alarm go off?

SECOND TEST:
---Open a window.
---Close all doors, hood, trunk.
---Using the key in the driver's door (NOT the remote!) turn the key so that all the doors lock.
---Wait 30 seconds or longer.
---Reach in through the open window (pretend like you were a thief and you broke the window), open the door from the inside....does the alarm go off?

Report back with results.

Ok so I gave her the gift, so I was finally able to get a chance to do those tests.
Test 1.
The alarm goes off
Test 2
if I just try to open the door from the inside with the handle it won't work. So I unlock it from the inside then open the door. Alarm does not go off.

Hey guys I have everything installed and working except for the parking light flash. I hooked the white wire from the 9 pin harness up to the white wire that I found in the wiring in the steering column that went to the headlight switch. The diagram from ready remote says parking - white wire located headlight 18 pin headlight harness pin 14. I am not sure where that is, I am guessing the wire I used was wrong. lol If someone could help me out that would be great so I can put all of this back together.
Thanks

The 18 pin connector is right at the switch under the column shroud. It's a negative trigger. Did you test the wire before connecting ? What is the jumper on the 4103 set for ?

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

I found the plug its not 18, but I found the white wire. The white wire from the 4103 has the 10 amp fuse in it. When I start the car that wire shows 12v. and there is 12v at the back of the plug at the white wire. I don't have any jumpers on the 4103 didn't see that in the instructions, but there is a small black 2 pin jumper that comes taped to it, not sure where it goes.

That's the jumper.  Look at the side of the 4103 control unit, next to the 4 Pin Red D2D port.  There are 3 pins.  On the bottom is marked ( - , + ).  insert the jumper over the 2 pins farthest to the 4D2D port.

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Soldering is fun!

I pulled the fuse from the white wire so nothing gets damaged. I finally found some old instructions that mentioned the jumper but not much more. So I should put the jumper on the first 2 pins (from the end of the unit in? And that should work, no relay needed? My wife likes to keep the headlight switch in the on position on her car, this makes it so that the daylight sensor controls the lights, will this effect anything?
Thanks for your help

Yes.  The jumper in that position should give a (-) output on the White Parking Light Output wire.  On bottom of the 4103, molded into the plastic, should be the jumper pin / position info.  Older units also had a set of three Tach Hi / Tach Lo jumper pins.

Double check / test the White wire with your DMM.  Set to +20V DC, Red test lead to +12V constant, Black test lead to 4103 White Parking Light wire.  A 4103 Lock command will give one pulse of +12V on the DMM.  An Unlock command will give two +12V pulses.

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Soldering is fun!

The other thing you will want to consider is if you're wife keeps the headlight switch in the on position. If you shut down the Truck by remote it could leave the headlights on until it sees a door open. All the recent kias do this so I'm assuming yours will too. You can simulate this by using the GREEN / WHITE factory alarm rearm wire from the 4103 to the trucks door trigger.

DOOR TRIGGER      YELLOW (-)      @ FUSE BOX, 8-PIN PLUG

What happens is when you shut the truck down by remote the rearm wire sends a ground pulse to the door trigger simulating a door being opened and shutting off the lights

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Thanks guys. I will try it tomorrow and let u know how it works out.

I put the jumper on and the parking lights will flash as long as the headlight switch is off, but when the switch is on they will not flash. Also the lights will stay on until you put the key in and turn it on, opening the door will not turn them off.

Did you let the lights time out ? Some of them take up to 45 seconds to shut off after the door is opened and closed.

Try changing your lights to positive pulse should fix your light flash issue.

There's conflicting info on the lights. I'm willing to bet the bottom one is correct.

PARKING LIGHTS ( + )      GREEN/ ORANGE (+)      FUSE BOX 15 PIN PLUG

Parking Lights+      BROWN / orange (L), GREEN/ orange (R)      +      dash fuse box, white 15 pin plug (F), pins 1 and 10

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Yes left them on for 5 min. The info I read also said L and R. I dont want just one side to flash. Lol. So just switch the jumper to the top 2 pins and move the white wire to the fuse box and split it to both l and r ?

Yes, plus a couple of 6 Amp diodes to keep the Left and Right circuits isolated.

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Soldering is fun!

Now you have gone too far. I don't have any diodes. I will probably just cut the white wire.

You could try cutting the light wire in half and wire the relay so that the light wire is normally open from the switch and only getting it's ground from the remote module. Then have the relay controlled by the ignition and keysense. That way once you have the key in the relay closes the contacts and the light switch takes over the ground signal.

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe