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2010 f150 lights

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=137989
Printed Date: May 03, 2024 at 2:24 PM


Topic: 2010 f150 lights

Posted By: 97f150ext
Subject: 2010 f150 lights
Date Posted: December 17, 2014 at 12:57 PM

2010 F150 installing remote start/alarm.  Found what tested to be parking light wire, hooked white wire from Viper to this wire, and now the parking lamps stay on constantly.  I pulled the wire off, parking lights were still on.  The only way I could get the parking lights to turn off was to pull the fuses.  I've looked through the passenger side fuse box, and all fuses are good.  I haven't tested any relays under the hood, but I did find a Technical Service Bullentin, NHTSA #10051724.  This is a family members vehicle, but they are set to hit the road tomorrow.  I've order a new headlight switch after reading the bullentin, but I'm still not 100% convinced this is the issue.  Any help would be greatly appreciated on this matter!!



Replies:

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 17, 2014 at 1:06 PM
Very common problem that happens when using the (-) Parking Light wire at the headlight switch.  Do a search on this forum, there will be many similar posts.  It is much safer to use the PURPLE / White (+) Parking Light wire at the SJB, Gray 13 pin plug.  Save the switch assy, it is repairable if you are handy with a soldering iron.

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: 97f150ext
Date Posted: December 17, 2014 at 1:10 PM
Thanks for the quick reply, but I did use the PURPLE / white wire.  I have no problems with a soldering iron.  I'll try a quick search and see what results come up.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 17, 2014 at 2:18 PM
Very strange.  The (+) Parking Light PURPLE / White wire is the safe one to use.  The (-) Parking Light wire can cause problems, even while testing.  Here is a link to the Directed Tech Tip #1096  :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1238

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: 97f150ext
Date Posted: December 22, 2014 at 7:39 AM

Turned out to be the headlight switch.  Thanks for the help.

Here were my symptoms for anyone who may experience this issue.  Headlights, parking lights, and interior dome lamps stayed on constantly.  The only way these lamps would go off was by removing the fuses, or disconnecting the battery.  Because the truck believed the lights were on, the warning chime was constant with the door open and the keys out of the ignition.  The part from Ford was right at 100 bucks, and took seconds to replace. 





Posted By: pentavolvo
Date Posted: December 22, 2014 at 3:22 PM
It's common to smoke the headlight switch if you don't know how to interface and that's what it does leaves all lights om




Posted By: shark mobile
Date Posted: December 22, 2014 at 11:27 PM
I just use a relay for the (-)park-lights mostly cause I hate jumping over to the passenger side of the vehicle for one wire. Now I have heard horror stories about installers damaging both the switch and BCM due to hooking up direct to the (-) trigger at the switch...BAD IDEA! I'm sure the relay diagram for Ford lights is in the archives.

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Solder, tape, repeat!





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