2014 honda crv second accessory hookup

Not really sure if the second accessory has to be hooked up.
Using Excalibur rs-260edp and omegalink ol-mdb-all HA3 firmware
The issue I have is that the car starts and runs for a minute
Then shuts off then restarts, so that why I thinking that the second accessory has to be hooked up. Thanks for the help


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RP90CB7

Has a tach wire been hooked up and programmed ?

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

No tech less works pretty good for that brand also the module does tach

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RP90CB7

If the module does tach for you try setting the system to sense it and program the signal to the module see if that fixes your stalling restarting issue.

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

For what it is worth, I traced out a factory remote start harness to repurpose on a 2012 CR-V install. The Honda factory remote does *not* light up the Second Accessory circuit at all. It has a T-Harness for the high current connections and there is no connection to the Second Accessory wire. Everything else is lit up as normal. I realize this is CR-V, but the same factory remote is used on many late model Hondas.

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My DIY Project Canvas is a 2012 Honda CR-V EX AWD

I tried setting the module for data tach and the car would try to
Start but the anti-theft kicks in and does not allow the car to fully start up. So I'll change it back to tech less and the car would start.
I'll going to reflash the module and maybe that will work.

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RP90CB7

no need for second acc. You should double check your can high and low wires. I have dont this vehicle countless times, and never had a problem

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Just chiming in with what the others said.

---I've never connected second accessory on any Honda. This way, the radio stays off during remote start.

---2012-up Civc and CR-V have Honda's new multi-stage alternator. Voltage sensing won't work reliably with these cars. It'll work for a couple of minutes....just long enough for the installer to think everything is OK and send the customer on his way.

But eventually the remote starter will end up starting and stopping several times during the remote-start runtime.

So basically, you need to get tach from somewhere. If data tach on the remote starter isn't working for you, you could either hardwire the remote starter's tach input to the output of the bypass module, or to the car directly.

Thanks everyone for that advise now what i have done is hard the tach wire to the bypass module car starts fine but once again the car dies from sitting more than one hour. What I'm thinking is that the car's idle is to high and that I have it learning at a low idle.

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RP90CB7

Try leaving the window open if you can....next time it sits and you think it will fail to start, put your head in the window so you can see the dashboard, and try the remote starter.

There's a green light that looks like a key in the instrument cluster. It's the only green light in there (besides the turn signals). The light should come on solid and then go out. If it's flashing, the car isn't seeing the proper immobilizer signal.

That will help with troubleshooting.

Also, the remote starter should have a diagnostic shutdown menu. Let the remote starter fail, then go into the menu and see what it says. It'll show you if it saw the brake, the hood, or whatever else.

Just to be clear the car does start up and run the 15 minutes program but only does not start if the car has been sitting over night. Customer sent me a video of the rpm reading during the first start up with the key about 1100 to 1200 rpm. If programed for 900rpms would that make a difference

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RP90CB7

Did the customer tell you if the green security light on the dash is flashing?

That will tell you if it's the immobilizer bypass that's failing or not.

Got it thanks to all that responded had to do with a cold start idle

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RP90CB7