2009 camry remote/alarm

I have been scouring this site for weeks and finally had to sign up and ask the following:

2009 camry LE 4 cyl.

https://www.prostartsystems.com/Products/RemoteStartSecurity/CT-5072.aspx

paired with

https://www.xpresskit.com/product.aspx?productid=196

so confused....

Questions:

for the xpresskit the remote starter/alarm has a port for the d2d cable but i still must connect the following correct?

at black 7 pin connector:

PURPLE / white to RX(data in) - Brown wire
yellow/black to TX(data out) - Red wire
blue/white to (-) while running wire
green to key sense
pink - not used
rose - not used

and thats it?

for the remote/alarm its much more confusing

red 12v battery - black 30a at ign
purple +30a starter output - blue at ign
red 12v battery - black 30a at ign
yellow +30a Ign output - yellow at ign(also made a relay to power 2nd ign wire(pink) from this same yellow wire)
orange +30a Acc output - white at ign
green +30a 5th relay(made it 2nd starter) - grey at ign
black chassis ground - GROUND
purple ac tach input -black wire pin 9 by airbag
grey hood switch - hood switch
orange + brake input - blue at brake pedal
yellow + 12v parking light input - brown at long white connector at fuse box ??? <<<<<<---------
blue aux 3 trunk - do i really need this???????
brown (-)lock output - purple drivers kick panel white connector
green (-)unlock output - green driver kick panel " "   " "
WHITE/ brown - arm output
WHITE/ green - disarm output
blue/white (+) door input- ???????????????
WHITE/ orange - starter kill output(probably wont use)
orange - park brake N/A
purple siren output - to pos siren
white ground out while running - hooked to relay made for 2nd ign and the imobilizer blue/white wire (diode required here?)
grey (-) door input -???????????
yellow glow plug - N/A
grey/light blue - N/A
WHITE/ purple horn output (will use siren) N/A
BLACK/ green aux 2 output N/A
BLACK/ brown priority door output - ???????
yellow (-) parking light output - use this or use the pos park light???????????


well thats as far as i got,if i am correct on this then i will actually try to install the unit but i would like to be sure before i start

is your dball flashed for your vehicle?

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

well its supposed to have that all inside the brain

"The PKALL is a data transponder bypass module that is compatible with more than 700 vehicle models from 1998 through 2009. This module is Self Learning and ready to install right out of the box!"


but as I read more I see using the D2D hookup I do not need to use a lot of the wires I had planned,did not fully understand what D2D was,probably still do not fully understand so if you can help please chime in

woops, i assumed you were using a DBALL, The pkall will work for transponder bypass. You will still need to wire the locks, brake shutdown, parking light, trunk release, defrost (option) etc.

If you want to make the install super easy, a data bypass or can-bus interface would reducing your wiring. No need for d2d on a pkall. Simpy power ground, immobo wires and ground when running (status)

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

oh,I was starting to think the D2D connection and the RX(data in), TX(data out) was going to run the light,locks and trunk and I would just need to do the basic remote starter wires for the starter/alarm.Appears I have another month of research to do

hmm,lots of visitors but no buyers :P

no one?

I'm in the process of installing a PKALL in a 2006 Lexus ES330 with regular key start and my connection in the same as yours; connection 7 on page 8 on the PKALL instructions. Have you looked at the 7pin connector at the ignition switch where you have to connect the RX/TX wires from the PKALL? Mine will not disconnect and it is a over-molded connector which I'm kind of reluctant to cut open.

I haven't looked at your car's or RS wiring charts but it looks like you have a good handle on the connections.
You will only need to connect to either the + or - on the parking light output and the door inputs.
You only need Aux3 output connected if you want remote truck pop.
And I believe the "priority" door output is if you want progressive door unlock; hit unlock button once to unlock just the driver's door and hit it again to unlock all doors.

Here you go:
Assumptions : 2009 Camry 4 cyl, non-PTS, auto trans, no Factory Alarm System
PKALL install diagram :  https://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=6226&productid=196&firmwareid=1636
CT5072 wiring diagram :  https://www.prostartsystems.com/Docs/CT_5072_wd_en_h5xsx.pdf

PKALL black 7 pin connector:

PURPLE / white to RX(data in) - Brown wire @ Transponder 7 pin plug , Pin 4
yellow/black to TX(data out) -          Red wire @ Transponder 7 pin plug , Pin 5
blue/white to (-) while running wire              CT-5072 Pin 10 White
green to key sense   blue (-)  ignition key switch, white 2 pin plug, pin 1
pink - not used
rose - not used

CT-5072
red 12v battery -        black 30a at ign
purple +30a starter output -    blue at ign
red 12v battery -        black 30a at ign
yellow +30a Ign output -         yellow at ign(also made a relay to power 2nd ign wire(pink) from this same yellow wire)
orange +30a Acc output -       white at ign
green +30a 5th relay( set to 2nd starter)        grey at ign
black chassis ground -           GROUND
purple ac tach input -   OBD2, black wire @ pin 9 by airbag
grey hood switch -    hood switch
orange + brake input -           blue at brake pedal  ( might be White )
yellow + 12v parking light input -        not used
blue aux 3 trunk -     not used ( optional w/relay )
brown (-)lock output - purple drivers kick panel white connector pin 15
green (-)unlock output -        green driver kick panel " "   " " pin 7
WHITE/ brown - arm output     not used
WHITE/ green - disarm output not used
blue/white (+) door input-     not used
WHITE/ orange - starter kill output        optional w/relay
orange - park brake N/A       not used
purple siren output -   to pos siren
white ground out while running -       hooked to relay made for 2nd ign and the imobilizer blue/white wire  * diode isolate
grey (-) door input - ***see Door Pin info below.  Use 4 diodes for isolation.
yellow glow plug -    N/A
grey/light blue -        N/A
WHITE/ purple horn output       (will use siren) N/A
BLACK/ green aux 2 output      N/A
BLACK/ brown priority door output -      not used ( optional for priority unlock )
yellow (-) parking light output -          black (-)  @ headlight switch, white connector

*** Door Pins : Drivers BLUE & Drivers Rear LT GREEN (-) In Drivers Side Body Harness
Pass Door YELLOW & Pass Rear GRAY (-) Behind Fuse Box In White Conn

If you want to add trunk monitoring to alarm system, add this wire to the 4 door pin wires ( w/diode ) listed above :
Trunk Pin   WHITE (-) @ 28 PIN PLUG AT BECU PIN 25

 

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Soldering is fun!

st1nky wrote:

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for the xpresskit the remote starter/alarm has a port for the d2d cable but i still must connect the following correct?
[Yes... The D2D feature doesn't save time on this partricular install... But you may connect the power connector to the D2D post or hardwiring it directly to 12v positive & ground]

at black 7 pin connector:

PURPLE / white to RX(data in) - Brown wire   [Correct]
yellow/black to TX(data out) - Red wire    [Correct]
blue/white to (-) while running wire    [Correct]
green to key sense    [Correct]
pink - not used     [Correct]
rose - not used     [Correct]

and thats it? [Yes]


red 12v battery - black 30a at ign   [Correct]
purple +30a starter output - blue at ign   [Correct]
red 12v battery - black 30a at ign   [Correct]
yellow +30a Ign output - yellow at ign(also made a relay to power 2nd ign wire(pink) from this same yellow wire)   [Correct & correct]
orange +30a Acc output - white at ign   [Correct]
green +30a 5th relay(made it 2nd starter) - grey at ign   [Correct (be sure to set the jumper on the prostart to "Starter 2")]



black chassis ground - GROUND   [Correct]
purple ac tach input -black wire pin 9 by airbag   [Not sure what the reference to the airbag is, but the black tach wire is on the OBD plug under the driver's dash]
grey hood switch - hood switch   [Correct -- can also connect to the factory hood switch instead. (-) Red located @ Large grey 25-pin plug, just left of the steering column]
orange + brake input - blue at brake pedal   [Correct (the wire may change colour from white to blue)]
yellow + 12v parking light input - brown at long white connector at fuse box ??? <<<<<<--------- [Not connected (do not use (+) parking lights, use the (-) instead)]
blue aux 3 trunk - do i really need this??????? [Not required if you don't want remote trunk release... If you do want, you'll need to use a relay]

brown (-)lock output - purple drivers kick panel white connector   [Use the brown (factory alarm arm) in the same white connecter instead]
green (-)unlock output - green driver kick panel " "   " "   [Use the grey (factory alarm disarm) in the same white connecter instead (*be sure to program the unlock to double pulse)]
**Both the factory alarm arm & disarm wires will give a reading on the multimeter while the key is being turned into the driver's lock cylinder.

WHITE/ brown - arm output   [Not needed]
WHITE/ green - disarm output   [Not needed unless you're connecting the trunk release]
blue/white (+) door input- ???????????????   [Not connected, will be using the (-) door input instead]
WHITE/ orange - starter kill output(probably wont use)   [Optional]
orange - park brake N/A [Not connected]
purple siren output - to pos siren [Correct]
white ground out while running - hooked to relay made for 2nd ign and the imobilizer blue/white wire (diode required here?)   [Correct; may use a quenching diode on the relay... or 2 diodes to isolate the outputs]
grey (-) door input -??????????? [Needs to be connected if you want the alarm to monitor the doors... Will need 4 diodes to isolate the doors from one another, let me know & I can clarify]
yellow glow plug - N/A   [Not connected]
grey/light blue - N/A [Not connected]
WHITE/ purple horn output (will use siren) N/A   [Optional]
BLACK/ green aux 2 output N/A   
BLACK/ brown priority door output - ???????   [Optional - if you want to have the driver's door unlock on the 1st press, then all the others unlock on the 2nd press]
yellow (-) parking light output - use this or use the pos park light??????????? [Use this: connect to Black @ Headlight switch, white 20 pin plug, pin 18]

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Let me know if you need anything clarified.

Lol, man I was working on this too... Kreg you are the man!

kreg357
Thanks very much for the time you took to check this out, I really do appreciate it,I think ill open er up in the morning and install this and I will definately let you know how it goes :P

just one follow up question though

yellow (-) parking light output -       black (-) @ headlight switch, white connector

I have the auto headlight function on this Camry,as long as I do not use the auto function this won't cause the lights to come on and not go off without disconnecting the battery or should I grab it from the drivers kick panel?

st1nky wrote:

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kreg357
I have the auto headlight function on this Camry,as long as I do not use the auto function this won't cause the lights to come on and not go off without disconnecting the battery or should I grab it from the drivers kick panel?

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You shouldn't have to disconnect the battery for the autolights to turn off. They will function as normal but since there won't be a driver to open the door (which normally shuts off the autolights after the engine is shut off), the autolights will remain on for their timed period after the remote starter has timed out.

If you want to stop the autolights from coming on during the remote start, you can use a relay to interrupt the autolights wire -- Green @ headlight switch, white 20 pin plug, pin 19.

Hey Yellow_Cake,  that was definitely a 30 minute question.  A lot of research, etc.  Plus the fact that I don't see that brand in the States.  We did provide good confirmation for the OP.  

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Soldering is fun!

thanks to you both, I really do appreciate it especially with the holidays and all

yellow_cake,
When I first bought this car it had a remote starter installed already but in September as it got cooler outside one day after going to work I happened to notice the headlights were on and I had not even turned them on to start with,over the next week 4 more days the same issue,start car WITH KEY, not remote,only tested remote when I bought the car,was no reason to use it in summer here,headlights come on,light switch is off,they stay on all day if I let them. The only way to get them to go off was disconnect the battery for only 2 seconds and then you could start the car all day and no issue with lights. Seems like when it got cold it acted wonky and in the cold is when I need it so on Saturday that week I removed the remote start ground wire and all the next week it was fine,the following Saturday I removed the remote start and its wiring, since then there's no light issue and that is why I was asking about that,I had read something about kick panel wire not having this issue. That remote starter was hooked to positive lights at the switch though so perhaps that was the issue

ok I am downstairs at the workbench doing the pre-install wiring and I have question about diodes,I have read the diode section and think I understand but to be sure

white ground out while running -    hooked to relay made for 2nd ign and the imobilizer blue/white wire * diode isolate

now when I made the relay I put the quenching diode across the proper pins in the correct direction but I am sort of iffy on the diode for the PKALL ground while running. I positioned it with white bar towards PKALL, is this correct?

So, here is where I am:

On the bench i have connected all wires that need to be connected,soldiered,taped and tied, I will not hook up the door pins or trunk pin for now. If the diode thing I asked earlier is correct I can tape that up and I am ready to install it I think.....OH. The priority door function,going with yellow_cake idea


brown (-)lock output - purple drivers kick panel white connector   [Use the brown (factory alarm arm) in the same white connecter instead]
green (-)unlock output - green driver kick panel " "   " "   [Use the grey (factory alarm disarm) in the same white connecter instead (*be sure to program the unlock to double pulse)]
**Both the factory alarm arm & disarm wires will give a reading on the multimeter while the key is being turned into the driver's lock cylinder.

so would priority door go to disarm wire as well(grey) ?

Today was bitter cold,no way I was doing it today but I still have those 2 issues,the priority lock,maybe I will just pass on but the diode direction on the "ground when started" for the imobilizer I need confirmed before I start

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Soldering is fun!

okay 2 things to clarity.

To disable the factory alarm during remote start, you should power the (-) Keysense wire @ the ignition tumbler.

For the door locks, you will use the lock/unlock ouputs of the unit, and connect those to the factory alarm wires @ the kick panel. Why use the factory alarm wires at the kick? it allow the door locks to function when the vehicle is running.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

kreg357
thanks,seems I have the diodes backwards and I was so proud of my soldering job now i must unsolder it :(

tedmond

i have the keysense wire

PKALL black 7 pin connector:

PURPLE / white to RX(data in) -        Brown wire @ Transponder 7 pin plug , Pin 4
yellow/black to TX(data out) -       Red wire @ Transponder 7 pin plug , Pin 5
blue/white to (-) while running wire  CT-5072 Pin 10 White
green to key sense        blue (-) ignition key switch, white 2 pin plug, pin 1
pink - not used
rose - not used

The door hookup i understand was just the priority door deal but if what you said here:

"Why use the factory alarm wires at the kick? it allow the door locks to function when the vehicle is running."

I assume that means using my key button to open doors will work normally so priority door is moot.

tedmond also my Camry has no factory alarm.

When using the vehicles lock/unlock wire, this will simulate as if you were pressing the lock switch at the driver door panel. Pressing lock always locks all doors, and all doors open with unlock.

When using the factory alarm wires, this simulates the key in the drivers key hole. One turn unlocks drivers door, second turn opens remaining doors. So long story short,you can get priority driver unlock;and have a second unlock stage when using factory alarm wires.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

sweet,thanks for clearing that up for me tedmond, I do believe I am ready to install now, just need a semi warm day :P

Does the Camry unlock the driver's door mechanically on the first key turn or is it electronically via the door motor?

yellow_cake wrote:

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Does the Camry unlock the driver's door mechanically on the first key turn or is it electronically via the door motor?

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Just went out and tested,I would say it is is it electronically via the door motor

Well today was the big day,spent four hours doing wires and all the soldiering took forever,seems when its cold out it takes longer lol. Anyway it seemed to go well,all wires were where they were supposed to be but it got dark,gets dark here by 4:30 currently so I tied up what I could,put the dash back together and left the hookup to the modules for the morning. Everything is taped/tied up nicely and the spot to tie up the module is accessible so hopefully in the morning its just a matter of plugging it in,putting the fuses in and programming the unit,then I believe I plug in the expresskit and do do the key and hopefully i press the button and the car starts and doesn't catch on fire :P. WISH ME LUCK!

Seems I need help again,as I am plugging in the wires the connector with the neg [parking lights,soon as i plug that one in parking lights come on,I do not have the fuses in yet....... is baffling me seems its sending to tell the lights to come on no idea why bah

Could the relay inside the module sit at neg connection when the module has no power,so when I put the fuse in it will break the circuit and lights will go off?

Ok thank you everyone who assisted me,seems once i put the fuses in the lights flashed a few times and went out,everything is working perfectly :P. I did not hook up the door pins but now that I have confirmed to myself I know what I am doing I will hook those up on the next warm day.