2012 tundra 5906 idatalink

Setting up the 5906V with the idatalink acla d2d. Please review and give me any suggestions. thanks

H3/1 NC No Connection Not Used
H3/2 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED 12V ACC/STARTER INPUT White (50A) (+) @ ignition switch, White 8pin plug, blue pin 5
H3/3 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A Not Used
H3/4 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT Red + @ignition switch, White 8pin plug, blue pin 5
H3/5 RED (+) FUSED 12V IGNITION 1 INPUT White (50A) (+) @ ignition switch, White 8pin plug, blue pin 5
H3/6 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE) Yellow (+) @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, Green pin 7
H3/7 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE) Yellow (+) @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, Green pin 7
H3/8 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT Orange (+) @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, Gray pin 2 
H3/9 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED 12V IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY White (50A) (+) @ignition switch, White 8pin plug, blue pin 5
H3/10 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT Blue (+) @ ignition swith, white 8 pin plug, Black pin 8 + idatalink Pink ingnition(+) wire

Here is the Viper H2 connections :

Viper 5906v Harness 2
AUX/Shutdown/Trigger, 24-pin
H2/1 (-) Ignition 2 / Flex Output .2A Pink/White Not Used
H2/2 (-) 2nd Status / Rear Defogger Output .2A Blue/White Not Used
H2/3 (-) Trunk Release Output .2A RED / White Not used
H2/4 (-) Dome Light Output .2A BLACK / YELLOW Not Used
H2/5 (-) Status Output .2A Dark Blue not Used
H2/6 (-) Aux 3 Output .2A WHITE/ Black Not Used
H2/7 (-) Aux 1 Output .2A WHITE/ Violet Not Used
H2/8 (-) Aux 4 Output .2A ORANGE / Black Not Used
H2/9 (-) Hood Pin Input (Normally On or Normally Off) Gray  Not Used         H2/10 (-) Trunk Pin / Instant Trigger Input Blue Not Used
H2/11 Activation Input WHITE/ Blue Not Used
H2/12 Tachometer Input Violet/White To idatalink PURPLE / white Tach output
H2/13 (-) Neutral Safety / Parking Brake Input BLACK/ White Not Used (automatic)
H2/14 (-) Factory Alarm Disarm Output .2A GREEN/ Black Not Used
H2/15 (-) Door Input Green Not Used
H2/16 (-) Horn Honk Output .2A BROWN / Black Not Used
H2/17 (-) Ignition 1 Output .2A Pink Not Used
H2/18 (+) Door Input Violet Not Used
H2/19 (-) Aux 2 Output.2A Violet/Black Not Used
H2/20 (+) Brake Shutdown Input Brown To Idatalink Orange brake status output
H2/21 (-) Starter Output .2A Violet / YELLOW Not Used
H2/22 (-) Diesel Wait to Start Input Gray/Black Not Used
H2/23 (-) Accessory Output .2A Orange Not Used
H2/24 (-) Factory Alarm Arm Output .2A GREEN / WHITE Not Use

All that is left is the H1 harness :

Main Harness (H1), 6-pin connector
H1/1 RED (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT White (50A) (+) @ ignition switch, White 8 pin plug, Blue pin 5
H1/2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND Chassis Ground
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT Viper siren
H1/4 WHITE/ BROWN PARKING LIGHT ISOLATION Not Used
H1/5 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT To Tundra White 20 pin plug, Biege, pin 18
H1/6 ORANGE (-) 500mA GWA OUTPUT Not Used
** Set Viper Parking Light Jumper/Fuse to (-)

ADS hook ups

d2d

WHITE/ Black - SIL (Data) Vehicle side to Tundra white 12 pin plug, Blue pin 10

WHITE/ Red - SIL (Data) Connector side to Tundra White 12 pin plug, Blue pin 10

BROWN / Red - CANH to Tundra White 16 pin plug, Purple pin 6

BROWN / Yellow - CANL to Tundra White 16 pin plug, White pin 14

ORANGE / Black - Immobilizer to Tundra Whte 16 pin plug, Biege pin 7

Pink ingnition to tundra ignition , Black pin 6

Green to Viper Violet/White

Got some issues.  The main one is the White +12V constant power wire at the ignition switch harness.  Here is a photo of the
ignition connector from a 2014 Tundra ( the 2011 - 2014 models should be the same ). 

As you can see, it is no where near 50 Amps and definitely not suitable for all of the Vipers +12V input wires.   They are very
thin gauge wires.  I always replace the thick R/S output wires with 18 gauge wires on these installs.

Here is how I do it :
H3/1 NC No Connection Not Used
H3/2 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED 12V ACC/STARTER INPUT      thick Black ( 140 A ) @ Dash fuse box
H3/3 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A           Not Used
H3/4 PINK/WHITE (+) FLEX RELAY   ***set to IGN2    Light Green (+) @ ignition switch, White 8pin plug
H3/5 RED (+) FUSED 12V IGNITION 1 INPUT thick Black ( 140 A ) @ Dash fuse box
H3/6 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE)           Green (+) @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug
H3/7 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE)       Green (+) @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug
H3/8 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT      Gray (+) @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug
H3/9 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED 12V  FLEX RELAY         thick Black ( 140 A ) @ Dash fuse box
H3/10 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT   Black (+) @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug + idatalink Pink ignition(+) wire

Next is the iDatalink bypass module.  Make sure it is flashed with the DBI flavor of firmware for the D2D protocol it needs
to talk to the Viper.

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Soldering is fun!

Another issue is the Viper NSS wire :
H2/13 (-) Neutral Safety / Parking Brake Input BLACK/ White Not Used (automatic)
This wire should go to Chassis Ground.  ( Not sure because I'm not a Viper or D2D person, but it is possible that the E-Brake output goes to the NSS input at the Viper via D2D.)

Here is a link to the correct DBI AL(DL) TL5 install guide  :
https://cdncontent2.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-TL5/DBI-AL(DL)-TL5-EN_20141219.pdf

Here is a photo of the Tan (-) Parking Light wire at the headlight switch connector :

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks Kregg
thanks for the info on the ignition wires, I was thinking that seemed like a lot.

I was talking to a buddy of mine that was an installer and he told me not to ground the ebrake that I should just not hook it up.

one more thing do you unplug the Keysense plug? The ADS guide says "warning do not connect Keysense".

thanks again for the help

No, don't unplug it, leave it plugged in, just don't connect anything to it (most previous Toyota installs required connecting to key sense, but NOT this one)

Sorry about that iDatalink install guide, for some reason it doesn't work.  Go to the iDatalink WEB site, look up your truck,
and download the install guide for DBI AL(DL)-TL5 ( #19242 ).  That is the correct guide for your install.

On a typical R/S install on a vehicle with an automatic transmission, the EBrake to Neutral Safety wire is overkill.  The vehicle
is designed to not start unless the transmission is in Park or Neutral and the key can not be removed from the ignition switch
unless the vehicle is in Park.  The problem you have is going with D2D.  D2D makes the connections for you, whether you
want them or not.  As examples, the iDatalink generates a Tach signal that is supplied to the Viper.  Same goes for a Brake
signal and the door and hood status signals, all automatically supplied via D2D.  You listed a Brake and a Tach hardwired
between the iDatalink module and the Viper, but with DBI D2D, they are already "connected".   A bit of a dilemma.  You can
go into the ADS AL-CA's advanced features during the flash process and turn off any signal you don't want.  Anyway...

In W2W mode, you could choose to not connect any signal, like EBrake, to the appropriate Viper input wire.  In D2D it
might not be that simple.

As for Keysense, the iDatalink install guide specifically instructs you not to make any R/S wire connection to the vehicles
Keysense wire.  It does not say to disable or unplug anything so that the vehicle can not use the Keysense wire as it
normally does.  ( P.S. - as Mark says, don't unplug it.)

One last thought.  If your truck does not have the Factory Hood Pin, the iDatalink will not be able to supply that signal
to the Viper.  In this case, you should install the hood pin supplied in the Viper kit.

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Soldering is fun!

ok got it all installed, everything is working except the remote start. When remote start button is pushed I get a message that says remote start not available, then my car blinks 7 times. Anyone know what this could be? I have ebrake grounded (automatic) and I tried without it grounded as well.

H2/13 (-) Neutral Safety / Parking Brake Input BLACK/ White  should go to Chassis Ground.  Plug in the NSS switch harness and turn switch to ON. 

Did you program the Viper to Transmission Mode = Automatic ? ( default is Manual )

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Soldering is fun!

kregg I think your right with the programming of the viper. trying to figure out how to get to automatic mode.