avital 4103 parking light

Hello,

I installed an Avital 4103 remote start today in my 2011 Civic. Everything is functioning fine except the parking lights. According to the installation guide pin H1/9 of the main harness white wire should be parking lights + however I am not getting 12V when remote started. The manual stated + is default mode, but the jumper was taped to the top of the unit. Initially I did not install the jumper because it said + was default. After no output i unplugged the unit installed the jumper and plugged it back in, but still no luck.

When looking at the side with the red D2D port there are 2 sets of jumpers, I installed the light jumper on the right 2 pins of the right most jumper. Still no + output on white wire.

Any ideas?

Thanks

a 2011 civic used the negative parking lights. Check to see if the fuse is blown

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Thanks for the response. The lights are working fine. I cut the wire I connected to test and I am not getting 12V+ out of the remote start. If I test the other side when I turn on the parking lights I get 12V+. I am definitely on the right wire in the car, just no output from the RS.

As Ted mentioned, it's safer to use the (-) Parking Light wire at the steering column headlight switch connector.  Switch the jumper over to the center & left pins of the right most trio of pins.  Hopefully that works OK.

Parking Lights (-)      Gray (-)    @ headlight switch, BLACK/ white 12 pin plug, pin 11

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Soldering is fun!

Happy New Year!

Thanks Kreg and Ted. I really appreciate it. Funny, I used the wiring info Ted posted in the wiring section for a 2010 civic and it referenced the + wire and the default of the unit was supposed to be + so I thought it was all good.

I was hoping at this point someone was familiar with this unit and could confirm I am on the right jumper. I would really like to make it work this way at this point since I already tapped the +, but I also don't trust the output either. Guess I just gotta switch it and test again.

One more observation, it is connected to a DBall2 in D2D mode and even with the parking light wire not connected, when I remote start, the parking lights flash to indicate it will start. Can I control them with the DBall?

kreg357 wrote:

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As Ted mentioned, it's safer to use the (-) Parking Light wire at the steering column headlight switch connector.  Switch the jumper over to the center & left pins of the right most trio of pins.  Hopefully that works OK.

Parking Lights (-)      Gray (-)    @ headlight switch, BLACK/ white 12 pin plug, pin 11

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OK so I moved the jumper and when I test the white wire while remote started I get 1.3 volts not 12V. Is that normal for the 200 ma output?

One end of meter connected to 12V+ other end to ground reads 12V other end to white wire remote started gives 1.3V??

Is that normal or should it read 12V? I don't trust this output so not connecting until I can verify it is working.

Thanks

Ok, I'm confused.  Let's try this.  4103 Parking Light jumper set to (+).  4103 White Parking Light Output wire not connected
to vehicle.  DMM set to 20V DC, Red test lead to 4103 White Parking Light output wire, Black test lead to chassis ground.
Vehicle off, DMM is 0V.  Vehicle remote started and running.  DMM should read +12V DC.

Switch 4103 Parking Light jumper to (-) setting.    4103 White Parking Light Output wire not connected to vehicle.  DMM set
to 20V DC, Black test lead to 4103 White Parking Light output wire, Red test lead to +12V constant.  Vehicle off, DMM is 0V.
Vehicle remote started and running.  DMM should read +12V DC. 

You can also do similar tests, but vehicle off and a Unlock command from 4103 remote.  DMM will show a ~ 1 second +12V
signal.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

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Ok, I'm confused.  Let's try this.  4103 Parking Light jumper set to (+).  4103 White Parking Light Output wire not connected
to vehicle.  DMM set to 20V DC, Red test lead to 4103 White Parking Light output wire, Black test lead to chassis ground.
Vehicle off, DMM is 0V.  Vehicle remote started and running.  DMM should read +12V DC.

Switch 4103 Parking Light jumper to (-) setting.    4103 White Parking Light Output wire not connected to vehicle.  DMM set
to 20V DC, Black test lead to 4103 White Parking Light output wire, Red test lead to +12V constant.  Vehicle off, DMM is 0V.
Vehicle remote started and running.  DMM should read +12V DC. 

You can also do similar tests, but vehicle off and a Unlock command from 4103 remote.  DMM will show a ~ 1 second +12V
signal.

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No you are not confused, that is how I tested it and and it doesn't work either way. Jumper configured to + and nothing on meter with red to wire and black to ground, jumper config to - and like 1.3V on the meter when red lead to 12V and black to wire. Definitely right wire from RS because it is only white wire in 9 pin harness next to ground pin 9.

At this point I think the RS may be bad but I don't know if that is a common thing. I don't have access to another RS to swap out without buying another one and returning it. Everything else works perfect. Just annoying I can't see if it started from behind the car without the parking lights

Lights don't flash with lock or unlock with Avital remote.

Lights do flash twice even without wire connected from RS when you remote start, that must be the D2D from the DBall. Wish I could just control them with that.

Ever see anything like this?

And thanks for all your help, it is really appreciated.

I don't use DB-ALL's but the install guide doesn't show or mention that the DB-ALL2 wiil control the Parking Lights.  Their
diagram ( Type 2 ) shows only a Parking Light connection directly from the R/S unit.

Think the 4103 Parking Light output is bad.  Power comes from the two thick Red +12V input wires and everything else works.
You have the older style 4103 controller with the Tach Hi / Lo and Parking Light + / - jumpers on the side.  There should be the
jumper setting instructions molded into the plastic on the bottom on the controller.  It appears that you do have the correct
jumper and positions for the tests.

For grins, while you are waiting for a replacement 4103, you could connect the 4103's unused Arm and Disarm wires to the
Civic's (-) Parking Light wire and get a confirmation flash.  If you are going D2D, you could use the 4103's (-) Status Output
( or 2nd Status ) the same way to get the Parking Lights on during a remote start.

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Soldering is fun!

dball doesnt control parking lights. The reason they flash is because the dball is controlling the factory keyless system, which would give you parking light indication.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

kreg357 wrote:

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I don't use DB-ALL's but the install guide doesn't show or mention that the DB-ALL2 wiil control the Parking Lights.  Their
diagram ( Type 2 ) shows only a Parking Light connection directly from the R/S unit.

Think the 4103 Parking Light output is bad.  Power comes from the two thick Red +12V input wires and everything else works.
You have the older style 4103 controller with the Tach Hi / Lo and Parking Light + / - jumpers on the side.  There should be the
jumper setting instructions molded into the plastic on the bottom on the controller.  It appears that you do have the correct
jumper and positions for the tests.

For grins, while you are waiting for a replacement 4103, you could connect the 4103's unused Arm and Disarm wires to the
Civic's (-) Parking Light wire and get a confirmation flash.  If you are going D2D, you could use the 4103's (-) Status Output
( or 2nd Status ) the same way to get the Parking Lights on during a remote start.

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That is a great idea, and I would probably just do that, but I already ordered another 4103 from Amazon and I don't want to pull the other back out until I get the other one. But great idea.

tedmond wrote:

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dball doesnt control parking lights. The reason they flash is because the dball is controlling the factory keyless system, which would give you parking light indication.

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That makes sense I couldn't figure out why they flashed even without the wire connected.

Well thanks for the input. Stay tuned I will let you know what happens when I get the replacement. Might be a few days, I took the free shipping.

OK so problem solved.

New RS arrived today. Installed jumper. swapped out the brains, and........same thing. Both ways. So on a whim I tried installing the jumper on the left hand side of the D2D cable pins, connected the right most 2 pins and viola 12V+ out on white wire H1/9.

Moved jumper on old brain and re-installed. Bam works.

So not sure why it even seemed to change output on that wire slightly, it was the wrong jumpers.

So I am pretty sure their documentation is wrong, but maybe I was looking at old documentation. I have to rely on Google.

Again, Kreg and Ted thanks for your guidance and help. If you ever do an Avital 4103 maybe this will help you, LOL.

I'm currently in a similar situation. I'm installing a 4103 in a 98 Outback.

I have the 4103 white wire connected to -parking lights terminal

I can get light flash with remote lock/unlock, but no lights when RS.??

I'm at the point of thinking the jumper diagram is reversed from what the instructions say???

Rob, can you elaborate on your process? This confuses me a bit,
"So on a whim I tried installing the jumper on the left hand side of the D2D cable pins, connected the right most 2 pins and viola 12V+ out on white wire H1/9."


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2000 Subaru OBW Ltd

So far, (white wire) I can get a neg light flash w/lock&unlock. BUT, in this setting it does not output anything when RS is activated.

If I switch the jumper, I get +12v when RS is active, but no light flash with lock/unlock.

???

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2000 Subaru OBW Ltd

I had the same problem. The diagram was incorrect. Looking at the module right side up, jumper terminals toward the left separated by D2D jack. I moved the jumper to the left set of terminals. T=jumped pins.   tTT. D2D. ttt

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skycruzr