won’t start with key after r/s install

Hi guys,

Few weeks back I installed a audiovox APS997E starter with fortin evo-all bypass on my 2007 RX350. Everything seemed fine but now it developed a weird problem where it won't start with the key itself. It cranks just fine but will not start; starts every time with the remote no problem.

I took the dash apart yesterday and it started working again on its own. I put the dash back together and it still started fine with the key. This morning I used the remote, drove for a bit and tried starting with they key but it failed again.

All my connections are soldered. Could there be some feedback happening from the starter or the bypass that's preventing the car from starting with the key?

Only thing I can think of is there's something wrong with cars starter 2 wire, which was hooked up using a relay to the r/s, or the rx/tx wires from the key cylinder which run to the fortin.


Thanks :)

Yes..It sounds like your bypass module could have gone bad. This is more probable...Or like you said...starter2 wires with relay could also be at fault..to check, I would undo the relay connection, and re-connect the cut wire to starter2 to make back to factory..then check with the key to see if it starts..If it does, then you know relay is probably the problem..If it still does not start, then more than likely it is your bypass module.

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~It's me!

I would say the issue is with the keysense and ground when running. Toyotas have an issue when 2 keys are sensed. Next time it happens, take a look a bypass and see if its turned on. Could be a ground leak from the audiovox.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Hmm I do have keysense hooked up to "ground when running" from the r/s. This is also hooked up to the bypass I believe.

Now that I think about it I think it started when I hooked up keysense to ground when running so the factory alarm wouldn't get triggered during r/s start.

Did you diode separate the GWR when feeding the by-pass and the key sense ?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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Did you diode separate the GWR when feeding the by-pass and the key sense ?

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Did not, is that what can be causing it?

yes thats your problem. WIthout diodes, the keysense is powering your bypass up when the key is inserted.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Ah cool will look into diodes, have not used those before.

Anything specific I need to use? Just looking at the Diodes section of the site.

Thanks guys.

any 1 amp diode will do. you can get them at The Source or Sayals.
diode part numbers can be 1N400X x=1-7

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I assume you made a "Y" connection to the keysense and by-pass.
On each leg of the "Y" solder inline a 1N4004 (it's the most commonly available and suitable for most aspects of auto-electrics) with the bands towards your R/S brain.
Still the best diagnostic aren't I Ted

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.