Running Lights No Longer Function Correctly

So this was my installation thread
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=138139

Everything works correctly with the following exception. The driving lights (cherokee uses the amber lights for this) do not function at night with the headlights on.

I will expand.

Using the remote start I press the start twice, the running lights flash like they should and the vehicle starts. The running lights remain on. Insert key, turn to on, when you tap the brake light the running lights turn off. Turn on headlamps - no running lights accompany

Likewise starting normally/without remote start gives same result.

Brake lights, turn signals, emergency flasher all function correctly.

Any thoughts?

igeeky1 wrote:

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Using the remote start I press the start twice, the running lights flash like they should and the vehicle starts. The running lights remain on. Insert key, turn to on, when you tap the brake light the running lights turn off. Turn on headlamps - no running lights accompany

Any thoughts?

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The car's fuse for running lamps is blown.
My info indicates it is "Fuse #7" in Junction Box. Probably the under-dash fuse center.
I reviewed your install thread, and the replies. You have your truck wired correctly. Somehow the fuse got blown. Replace it, and forget about it.
Please report back if this is all it was. Feedback is how we all learn.

This is link for Cherokee under-dash fuses, under-hood has nothing relative.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/attachments/f11/313556d1323350116-fuse-diagram-2000-xjs-1997-2001-jeep-cherokee-fuse-panel-diagram.jpg

Unfortunately both #7 and #23 fuses show good, really was hoping it would be that simple.

Any other thoughts?

I disconnected the harness that goes to the parking lights from the aps620 controller and the parking lights still did not come on.

Fuse #19 (underhood) is the feed to the light switch. Probably OK, or there would be no headlights.

I would do this.
You say you tapped the blk/yel "at the light switch".
Gain access to that splice, and to the rear of the light switch itself.
Turn on park lights with dash switch. Check the blk/yel wire at the switch for = 12 volts. If = yes,
Go to the splice and check there. If you used a t-tap, it may have cut the blk/yel wire. The side to the lights is still connected to the R/S, but is cut off from the light switch. Recheck your connection.

If there is no power on the blk/yel at the light switch, with the light switch on, jumper the tan/blk to the blk/yel. If the running lamps come on, you have a bad light switch.

With you mentioning this I recall removing the connector to do the splice to get easier access to solder. I did not break/cut original just peeled a piece of insulation and wrapped and soldered.

I've a feeling I eiter did not get the connector back on correctly or screwed something up in the process.

Thanks