2014 chevy express van, wanting to add keyless

I would like to add keyless entry to the van, it's got power door locks but no rf transmitters. I was highly involved in this kind of stuff back in the 90's so figured, i'll just add a cheap keyless entry. Can't be too hard right?? We'll I had never heard of CANBUS before now. I see lots of keyless systems that specify central locks only, but none that say safe to use for CANBUS. Am i over complicating things? Any insight would be great. Thx in advance!

Probably making it harder than it is.  Get yourself a Viper 211HV or Avital 2101L Keyless entry system ( >$40 ) .  There is an install
guide in the Downloads Section.  Your van has low current (-) door lock wires at the BCM.  Here is the info :
Power Lock Pink/Black (-)      @ driver kick or BCM under pass dash, gray plug, pin 12  
Power Unlock         ORANGE / Black (-) (all doors)         @ driver kick or BCM under pass dash, gray plug, pin 11
Power Unlock         Yellow (driver door only) (-)         @ driver kick or BCM under pass dash, gray plug, pin 6

Parking Lights-     lt. blue (-)   @ headlight switch or BCM under pass dash, white plug, pin 8
Horn Trigger          tan (-)   @ horn switch or BCM under pass dash, brown plug, pin 18
Ignition     pink (+)   @ ignition switch or BCM under pass dash, green plug, pin 14
12volts     RED / white (x4) (10A each)   (+)   @ BCM under passenger dash, black plug, pins 1, 2, 3, 4
  ( might need to go directly to battery )
Trunk/Hatch Release       yellow (unlock rear cargo door only)  (+)  @ BCM under passenger dash, gray plug, pin 2 
  ( need a relay to convert H1/18 RED / WHITE (-) OUTPUT OF CHANNEL 2 to + )

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the quick response! Hopefully I'll get some free time soon to install one of those items you recommended.

or for a lttle extra more cash, you could istall a compustar kit
FT-GM10-DC with an rfkit , 10 minut istall all plug and play , no splicing, no cutting T harness included...... 2 wire to connect to car if you want light and horn honk, but other then done is cake, BTW that kit will also give you remotes start as well
but as kreg357 said 40 dollar keyless entry is just as good





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Luis
Sound Waves
Is up to the installer to test all wires with a DMM whenever possible.

I agree with kreg and bnluis both.

If you've installed before, it might be nice to spend the extra cash and labor and have a remote starter in there.

If you're going to do just keyless, here's how I'd do it:

The passenger-side underdash comes off with just two 10mm bolts and a few clips. The BCM is right behind there.

I still haven't figured out the right way to unclip the BCM from where it is, to be honest. The clips always seem to break on me. So try to be patient and get the clips to come out the right way.

So anyway....now you should have the BCM hanging there by its wires. There's plenty of slack to work with.

Configure your keyless system for negative door lock outputs, negative parking light output.

There's one plug in the BCM with a few constant wires, and there's a black ground wire right next to it.

The other plugs have your ignition wire, door locks.....and parking lights. However, I use the negative hazards wire---the turn signals are brighter than the parking lights, so it looks nicer and you can see the flashes even in daylight.

Alternately, you could pop off the driver's kick panel for the doorlock wires, get constant and ground at the OBDII, and lay down on your back and you could even hook up the hazards and ignition from the steering column without taking the dash down.

NOTE: I'm pretty sure the OBDII port is fused with the cigarette lighter. If the lighter fuse gets blown somehow, your keyless won't work until the fuse is replaced.

So, finally got around to trying this thing. Just wanted to make sure i have this right(can't believe i haven't figured this out), Which of these wires should i be connecting to each of the above mentioned van wires:

H1/5 GREEN/ BLACK LOCK #30 COMMON OUTPUT  
H1/6 WHITE/ BLACK LOCK #87a NORMALLY CLOSED
H1/7 VIOLET/BLACK LOCK #87 NORMALLY OPEN (INPUT)
H1/8 BLUE/BLACK UNLOCK #30 COMMON (OUTPUT)
H1/9 VIOLET UNLOCK #87 NORMALLY OPEN (INPUT)

Thanks for the help!

H1/5 GREEN/ BLACK LOCK #30 COMMON OUTPUT       Pink/Black (-)    @ driver kick or BCM under pass dash, gray plug, pin 12 
H1/6 WHITE/ BLACK LOCK #87a NORMALLY CLOSED            Not Used
H1/7 VIOLET/BLACK LOCK #87 NORMALLY OPEN (INPUT)   Chassis Ground
H1/8 BLUE/BLACK UNLOCK #30 COMMON (OUTPUT) ORANGE / Black (-) (all doors)  @ driver kick or BCM under pass dash, gray plug, pin 11
H1/9 VIOLET UNLOCK #87 NORMALLY OPEN (INPUT) Chassis Ground
H1/17 BROWN / BLACK UNLOCK #87A NORMALLY CLOSED  Not Used

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

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H1/5 GREEN/ BLACK LOCK #30 COMMON OUTPUT Pink/Black (-)    @ driver kick or BCM under pass dash, gray plug, pin 12 
H1/6 WHITE/ BLACK LOCK #87a NORMALLY CLOSED            Not Used
H1/7 VIOLET/BLACK LOCK #87 NORMALLY OPEN (INPUT)   Chassis Ground
H1/8 BLUE/BLACK UNLOCK #30 COMMON (OUTPUT)  ORANGE / Black (-) (all doors)  @ driver kick or BCM under pass dash, gray plug, pin 11
H1/9 VIOLET UNLOCK #87 NORMALLY OPEN (INPUT)  Chassis Ground
H1/17 BROWN / BLACK UNLOCK #87A NORMALLY CLOSED  Not Used

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Thank you much!!!

Finally got around to doing this install. Really simple, thanks for the help fellas.

How to wire director 5 wire actuator my car have mechanical link to 5 wire actuator. I want to add autocop keyless entry.

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Hi doing myself will bring great happiness and satisfaction even at the cost of time.

https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram3.html

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.