5706v Battery Drain

So I recently installed a 5906v alarm and remote start on my ram 1500 and everything worked perfect for about 2 weeks until I went on vacation. I was on vacation for one week and when I came back my battery was completely dead. I had the dealership to give me a new one under warranty thankfully . I unplugged the vipers battery source and haven't had an issue with the battery dieng in about 3 days. I have tested how many milliamps the viper is drawing when it is armed and im pretty sure its drawing about 500ma. I don't know if thats a lot or even enough to drain a battery but hopefully someone can help a newb out. The only thing I changed in the 2 weeks it was working was the ball bearing switch I put in instead of the hood pin. Is it possible I need a diode on the ball bearing switch?

thewirefather wrote:

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I have tested how many milliamps the viper is drawing when it is armed and im pretty sure its drawing about 500ma. I don't know if thats a lot or even enough to drain a battery

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500ma is a lot. 12 amp hours per day. A 'typical' truck battery is perhaps 75ah capacity, and in cold weather can be about 50% discharged and still crank the truck. So about 3 days, and it won't crank.

I'm not familiar with a "ball bearing switch", so I can't advise you there. If it only has a ground and a connection to the grey/blk wire, that's not the problem.

Did you add any external relays during your installation?
Is there anything connected to the orange H1/12 Ground When Armed wire?
Is there anything connected to the pnk/blk H3/8 Flex Relay 87a?
Are there any external modules like tilt sensors, glass breakage, window modules,etc?
Did you utilize the aux outputs for anything, particularly if they power a relay?
Are there any relays used for "inverting"?
Any of the above, if wired incorrectly, especially to an external relay, can cause a draw.

A frequent mistake is to have a relay coil powered-up when armed. In your case probably more than one. Relay coils are about 125MA. Leave the system armed for a few hours. Come out and feel each of your add-on relays. If any relays are warm to the touch, they are energized. Review your connections for any warm ones.

There's some ideas.

Should be more like 30-40 milli amps when armed.
Never known an alarm to drain a good battery in less than 10 days.
I'd run with Dave on this one.
BTW Dave, don't you mean "ball bearing sensor"...tilt switch? Connects to grey, not grey/black.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Unit: 5706 + LCD remote
sensors: 507M, 504D, 2x Mercury switches
Misc: relay for dual siren setup
Bypass: Evo-all

Viper power is pulled directly from the battery.
Guys, I've seen the initial install when he popped by for me to look at/guide him. It was spaghetti with a side of scotchlocks, crimps, and butt connectors. Hopefully it's better now after the 20+ PM's to me to get his system up and running.

At this point, I suspect the sensors are all back feeding one another-although i had suggested to diode all the lines to them. Easiest way is disconnect all sensors, after remove the relay for the siren:

relay should be wired
85 - ground
86 - siren input
87 - constant 12v fused at 2.5 amps
30 - 2 sirens positive


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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

What I'd call rip out on sight and start again.
Interesting when you know the facts.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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BTW Dave, don't you mean "ball bearing sensor"...tilt switch? Connects to grey, not grey/black.

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thewirefather wrote:

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The only thing I changed in the 2 weeks it was working was the ball bearing switch

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I called it what he called it. I said I wasn't familiar with it. At least I got the "gry" part correct. I was still up at 0130, doing it from memory.

Ted's got this one. Good Luck, Ted.
I'm out.....

Sorry mate, grey = gray, bumper = fender, hood = bonnet etc. etc.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

davep. wrote:

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I'm out.....

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I'm right behind you, Dave !

As Howie once said - " If it looks like spaghetti, it's cooked"

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

On a serious note I'm assuming "ball bearing" replaces mercury in a tilt switch.
Also too many sensors IMO. If you don't set up each individually you're in for a nightmare of false alarms.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

first things first tedmond when I saw you with my "spaghetti wiring" I was just doing that to make sure it works, a test run if you will. I have since taken it all out cut the wires in half and soldered everything. It looks quite clean now in my opinion. My sensors all plug directly into the brain so I should have no need for any diodes on that. I have two sirens with no relay both work just fine. I am assuming it's my motion sensor that pulls too many amps. I will check right now and get back to you. My ground while armed wire is not connected as I was told I do not need that.