09 Impreza, Remote Starter Install, Avital 4103lx

I'm installing an Avital 4103LX remote start in my 2009 Subaru Impreza. The car has a transponder key system and I'm using an iDataLogic ADS-ALCA to bypass it.

The car is an auto and I have disabled the built-in alarm system.

I have a few questions about the remote starter wiring:

1) "Activation input." Pin 4 on the main harness (WHITE/ blue) is a negative input called activation input. It sounds like this is a way to have a local button, or a separate module, activate the remote start. I'm guessing this is not necessary for a standard installation?

2) Door locks. On other cars, I've had to use a door lock module. A reference list I've found online implies that I can connect the blue (unlock) wire from the remote starter directly to blue/black power unlock wire on the body control unit. Does that sound correct?

3) Neutral safety switch. This is an auto so I can't even take the key out unless it's in park. Is it fine to just tap this straight to ground?

4) Horn. I've found wiring information to tap into the horn relay circuit, which is fine. But the car does have a beep system on it that the factory keyless entry uses. Is it possible to use this beeper instead of the horn?

5) What are the accessory outputs for, exactly? The wiring diagrams tell me to wire the accessory 1 and 2 outputs to the blue and yellow wires on the ignition harness, but I can't figure out just what these do or how necessary they are.

6) The Avital has a "2nd status output/defogger" wire. Here's the manual description:

8 2nd STATUS OUTPUT—NORMAL/LATCHED/PULSED:

If programmed to status mode, this output will turn on when the remote
start is activated. In this mode the output can be programmed to a
latched or a pulsed output. The pulsed output turns the defogger ON

Does anyone know if I can get this to work? I think the car's defogger is just a momentary switch. Can I just wire this into it somehow?

Answers :

1.  Correct.  Typically not used but good for testing, etc.

2.  Yes.  Direct door lock connections from the 4103 to the correct wires at the BIU.

3.  Yes.  NSS to chassis ground on a newer vehicle with auto trans.

4.  Probably not possible due to the circuits design.

5.  Your car has two Starter wires, two Accessory wires and one Ignition wire.  Use the 4103 thick ignition outputs for Starter1,
     Starter2 ( program Pink/White Flex to Starter2 ), Ignition and Accessory 1.  You will need a relay with 25 Amp inline fuse for
     Accessory2.  Use the 4103's (-) 200 mA  Accessory Output for relay control ( Pin 85 ).

6.   Rear Defrost      GREEN/ YELLOW (-)      @ BCM GREY 35 PIN CONN, PIN 16    Not sure if a latched or pulse output is required.

I'm assuming that you have the needed ADS USB cable and Flash access for the ADS AL-CA w/ ADS AL(TB) SUB firmware
programming & KLON extended programming.

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Soldering is fun!

Fantastic info, thank you so much. Not excited about installing a relay, but not such a big deal.

Any suggestions where I should pull power for ACCESSORY 2 from? What is it for, anyway?

And yes, I have the USB cable.

You would probably need the factory schematics to see what circuits are supplied by the ACC2 wire.  Possibly only wipers, radio and non-essential things but...  The White +12V constant at the ignition switch should be capable of supplying all the current needs for the 4103, extra relay and bypass. 

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Soldering is fun!

Oh good, at least I won't be running wires through the firewall or something for power. I will need to get the hood switch through there though.

I have one more question about the parking light output. The 4103 has a jumper to set the parking lights or positive or negative. Here's the manual info for the jumper and wire:

As factory configured, the H1/9 WHITE wire should be connected to
the (+) parking light wire. If the light flash polarity jumper is moved to
the (-) position (refer to the Programming Jumper section of this guide),
this wire then supplies (-) 200mA output.
Note: For parking light systems that draw 10 amps or more, the
jumper must be placed to the (-) light flash output (refer to the Programming Jumpers section of this guide. P/N 8617 or a standard automotive
SPDT relay must be used on the H1/2 light flash output wire.


Bulldog's diagram lists the following wires:
PARKING LIGHTS ( - )      BLACK/ WHITE (-)      @ LIGHTING SWITCHor BIU, (GRAY, 26-PIN PLUG), PIN 11, NOTE #2     
PARKING LIGHTS ( + )      BLACK/ WHITE (+)      in DRIVERS KICK PANEL, Harness to REAR of Vehicle

I'm not sure how to interpret this. I would think I can just keep the 4103 at the default + position and tap the parking light output to the BLACK/ white wire in the driver's kick panel, but I'm not sure. Thoughts?

Either way is acceptable, use either the (+) or (-) Parking Light wire after setting the 4103's jumper.  Personally, due to the lower current draw and the convenience of making another connection at the BIU, I would set the jumper to (-) and go with negative Parking Light wire.  It would be a direct connection from the 4103, no external relay needed.

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Soldering is fun!

Excellent. Thank you so much for the info. You're a real life saver.

About the second accessory wire: Does your car have heated seats? The second accessory wire in this car (it will test as power in both the Acc and Run key positions) activates the radio, cigarette lighter, heated seats, and a few other non-essentials I don't know about.

Bottom line is: If you have no heated seats, don't connect it; the radio will stay quiet during remote start and start playing after you do key takeover---it's nice. On the other hand, if you have heated seats and want them to work during remote start, DO connect this wire.

About the parking lights: My experience on Subarus (I don't do a lot of them) is that sometimes the negative parking light wire only works with the car on. So, with the remote start running, you'll have the lights come on for confirmation. However, you won't get the parking light flashes with lock and unlock from the 4103 when the car is off.

Since I can never remember which Subaru does this and which doesn't, I just started using positive parking lights always.

I do have heated seats, yes. Perhaps I'll do that. I'd like to avoid wiring a relay if I don't have to. I'll also probably use the positive parking wire. I understand the reason to use the negative, but this way seems simpler.

You guys are awesome.

This look good?

So it seems this car has a second starter wire, but the 4103 doesn't have a second starter output. I can't seem to program the pink/white to starter 2, only acc2 or ignition 2. I assume I can't just hook it up to ignition. What do I do?

As mentioned :
5.  Your car has two Starter wires, two Accessory wires and one Ignition wire. 

If you are using the Avital thick Pink/White for ACC2, wire up an external 30/40 Amp SPDT relay for Starter2 as follows :
Relay Pin 85 to Avital Pin 3 PURPLE (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT on the 4 Pin Satellite harness
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V constant through 25 Amp fuse
Relay Pin 30 to Vehicle Starter2
Relay Pin 87a not used

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Soldering is fun!

I don't think I am using ACC2. At least, I'll try not to.

Is it possible to set it for Ignition 2 and hook it to Starter 2?

Apparently, going by the latest 4103 install guide, you only get to choose from Ignition1 and Accessory1 on the Flex relay.  See Menu 2, Feature 6.  No good for the Starter1 circuit.  So, set that to ACC2 and connect the Pink/White to the Subies ACC2 wire.  A relay with 5 wire harness and an inline fuse holder will set you back about $8, but is the correct way to do it. 

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Soldering is fun!

I've got a spare relay and socket kicking around, so I'll go ahead and do that. Thanks again for the help.

Just to check, nothing connects to a chassis ground? I've got the starter output from the 4103, 12V, and the output to starter 2? That's it?

Oh never mind it makes sense now. Thanks!

Yep, that's correct on the relay.  The (-) Starter Output sends the controlling ground for the relay's coil.

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Soldering is fun!