Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2015 nissan rogue, viper 5706v

Hey Guys. I am going to be doing an install for my uncle next week and want to see if you guys could help me with a few things. I will be installing a Viper 5706v into a PTS 2015 Nissan Rogue. I will be using an iDataLink ALCA module as for bypass.

The iDataLink guide as shown below is D2D compatible so I will definitely opt for that.

A decent amount of wiring should be covered from that D2D connection including the Starter wiring.

A Warning Note is mentioned to not connect any other Accessory, Ignition, or Starter wiring from the RS directly to the Car. Sounds great but now that makes me question a few things. Which of the Heavy Gauge Wires from the RS should I wire to the car?

The bypass module calls for the Ignition Wiring from the RS to be tapped into the Car and bypass module.

Simple enough. I am assuming the #10 Pin of the heavy gauge harness will be the wire to connect to the OBDII port alone with the Bypass module (with a diode).

But what about powering this stuff? I assume I need to power #5 pin on the bypass module so that when you activate RS from the remote the Pink heavy gauge wire can engage the Bypass Module and Car.

I need to know if I am correct on that.

Also I need to know if I should connect heavy gauge pin #2 as well?

From what I see here I should not touch any ACC, or Starter Wires.

I would really appreciate any help on this. I am going to attach pictures below of the RS install guide and Bypass Module wiring as well.

Thank you guys for your knowledge!

posted_image

Follow the install guide exactly like it is shown. The ignition wires for both the bypass and remote starter are inputs to the 2 modules. They allow the units to know when the ignition is ON. DO NOT connect any other wires other than those shown with the exception of the parking lights. You can eliminate the diode if you only connect the remote starter's pink wire in the 10 pin connector. The only wire you need in the 10 pin plug is the pink. You don't need any of the other wires in the 10 pin plug. The parking lights are positive and use 3 separate circuits which must be isolated (usually through relays).

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sparky

Couple things, DEI products tend to work poorly in data modes with Idatalink so you may consider hard wiring it.
If you do, you will need to power up #2 along with #5 to constant so you might as well just do it to start with because I have a feeling you are gonna need to to get it working. Power both to constant hot at the BCM.
Don't connect any other wires in the 10 pin.
Also, I have had the key wrap work poorly on these cars. I instead use an INSET with a relay to eliminate the guess work on the wrap.
In all this is a pretty easy car to do. I use the Hazard negative to get around the parking light issue....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

pieces of cake car to do. The idatalink or fortin work well. You wont need tho power the large gauge constants. Just pin a female spade for ignition in.

If you flash it DBI it should work, but then again I'm a compustar guy, and never have issued in data.

Parking lights you can get it at the BCM as well. White (-) Grey plug
As far as the key wrap goes, if you follow the guide exactly as it says you shouldnt have a problem. Worst case, take the key apart and make a loop right over the rfid chip.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

sparkie wrote:

Follow the install guide exactly like it is shown. The ignition wires for both the bypass and remote starter are inputs to the 2 modules. They allow the units to know when the ignition is ON. DO NOT connect any other wires other than those shown with the exception of the parking lights. You can eliminate the diode if you only connect the remote starter's pink wire in the 10 pin connector. The only wire you need in the 10 pin plug is the pink. You don't need any of the other wires in the 10 pin plug. The parking lights are positive and use 3 separate circuits which must be isolated (usually through relays).

Thanks for the information!

Question on this.. "You can eliminate the diode if you only connect the remote starter's pink wire in the 10 pin connector. The only wire you need in the 10 pin plug is the pink. You don't need any of the other wires in the 10 pin plug."

I was assuming you had to use the pink heavy gauge #10 to the OBDII Ignition wire. Then tap the Pink ignition wire from the Bypass Module into the connection with a diode.

Was I wrong about this? Were they assuming I would not use the Pink heavy gauge? I ask this because of your advice above where you say you can skip the diode if you ONLY connect the RS Pink to OBDII. How could I not hookup the Pink Ignition wire from the Bypass Module?

Clarification on my confusion with that would be EXTREMELY Helpful! Thank you so much!

Mike M2 wrote:

Couple things, DEI products tend to work poorly in data modes with Idatalink so you may consider hard wiring it.
If you do, you will need to power up #2 along with #5 to constant so you might as well just do it to start with because I have a feeling you are gonna need to to get it working. Power both to constant hot at the BCM.
Don't connect any other wires in the 10 pin.
Also, I have had the key wrap work poorly on these cars. I instead use an INSET with a relay to eliminate the guess work on the wrap.
In all this is a pretty easy car to do. I use the Hazard negative to get around the parking light issue....

I was hoping somebody would't say that (about iDataLink & DEI D2D). I will try it in D2D and use your advice with powering up #2 & #5 from heavy gauge harness to power up the Starter and Ignition wires manually.

The next thing I would like to find out more on is this.. "Also, I have had the key wrap work poorly on these cars. I instead use an INSET with a relay to eliminate the guess work on the wrap"

I must admit I haven't researched on this yet.. but I want to find out more on using an INSET with a relay to eliminate the guess work on the wire wrap.

And finally, "I use the Hazard negative to get around the parking light issue." If I do it via this method will the parking lights have the normal option of constant/flash? He doesn't want the Parking lights to flash so that is why I ask.

Thank you so much!

tedmond wrote:

pieces of cake car to do. The idatalink or fortin work well. You wont need tho power the large gauge constants. Just pin a female spade for ignition in.

If you flash it DBI it should work, but then again I'm a compustar guy, and never have issued in data.

Parking lights you can get it at the BCM as well. White (-) Grey plug
As far as the key wrap goes, if you follow the guide exactly as it says you shouldnt have a problem. Worst case, take the key apart and make a loop right over the rfid chip.

I am hoping the DBI works.. If not, no real loss but time to hard wire I suppose.

"Just pin a female spade for ignition in." This is the connection from the RS Pink Wire to the OBDII connection (Ignition). I was planning on doing a T-Tap on the OBDII Ignition wire to a Male Spade connector to attach to the RS Pink Female Spade connector. I will then tap into the thinner OBDII wire to tap in the Bypass Module with the Diode. (This is all assuming the OBDII Ignition wire is thin gauge so that a Wire Tap works. If not I will wire the RS wire right into the OBDII wire with the Bypass Module tapped into that same junction with a diode in line.)

I will look into the BCM Grey Connector wire for the Parking lights (-) wire. Thank you for that as it will save me a lot of time.

Also interesting with the taking apart the key to get directly to the RFID chip. I will look into that as well. I want to see what the above guys method of the INSET method is all about.

Thanks to all you guys!

No T-Taps!

Splice into your wires and follow a military splice aka poke and twist.

The parking light at the BCM is NOT listed on any wiring diagram, besides Fortins wirecolor. I have done numberous key wraps on the new 128bit keys, and when followed as per the guide, its perfect.

I'll post the fortin wirecolour guide for your car in downloads later tonight.

Btw I've used DBI on the newer viper and yet to have a major problem. Worst case ive had is no detection of brake or tach (sometimes ebrake) through DBI

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

tedmond wrote:

No T-Taps!

Splice into your wires and follow a military splice aka poke and twist.

The parking light at the BCM is NOT listed on any wiring diagram, besides Fortins wirecolor. I have done numberous key wraps on the new 128bit keys, and when followed as per the guide, its perfect.

I'll post the fortin wirecolour guide for your car in downloads later tonight.

Btw I've used DBI on the newer viper and yet to have a major problem. Worst case ive had is no detection of brake or tach (sometimes ebrake) through DBI

I always to the poke method for heavy gauge. For thin gauge, no t tap?

Brake or tach is no big deal. To be honest I always use virtual tach and never had an issue yet.

Thanks again!

The ignition wires from the bypass and the remote starter are inputs to the modules. The remote starter should not put 12 volts out to the wire at the OBD plug. This is what the diode is for. It blocks the remote starter from putting out 12 volts onto the wire at the OBD connector. If you don't use the red wires in the 10 pin plug, then the remote starter can't put out 12 volts. It can only sense ignition. This is only true for units like DEI that have a dedicated 12 volt input for the ignition relay. If you don't understand this, then connect the wires as shown in the diagram. I have done few 2015 Rogues using DEI and ADSALCA modules. Program the bypass for DBI and it should work fine.

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sparky

sparkie wrote:

The ignition wires from the bypass and the remote starter are inputs to the modules. The remote starter should not put 12 volts out to the wire at the OBD plug. This is what the diode is for. It blocks the remote starter from putting out 12 volts onto the wire at the OBD connector. If you don't use the red wires in the 10 pin plug, then the remote starter can't put out 12 volts. It can only sense ignition. This is only true for units like DEI that have a dedicated 12 volt input for the ignition relay. If you don't understand this, then connect the wires as shown in the diagram. I have done few 2015 Rogues using DEI and ADSALCA modules. Program the bypass for DBI and it should work fine.

Oh I see now! I suppose they show the diode there assuming you may be hard wiring which according to the above notes would require you to power the starter and ignition relays on a DEI system.

Actually considering even if you did do a hard wire.. Wouldn't you only have to power the starter relay since that is thr only wire listed to connect to thr bypass?

According to idatalink the only path for ignition is strictly input.

Anyway.. If i do this DBI the only heavy gauge necessary is the Pink.

Sounds rather nice.

Thanks!

Both the remote starter and bypass need to know when the ignition is ON. Ignition is required for programming certain aspects of remote starter and bypass needs to know current power mode of vehicle. The instructions are for any remote starter. Some wiring changes can be made depending on your particular system.

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sparky

parking light WHITE (-) @ BCM White 40 pin plug, Pin 39. It's inbetween a blue and purple wire towards the end of the connector.

This turns on the parking lights, and lowbeam

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

tedmond wrote:

parking light WHITE (-) @ BCM White 40 pin plug, Pin 39. It's inbetween a blue and purple wire towards the end of the connector.

This turns on the parking lights, and lowbeam

I need to use a relay for that?

And that is lowbeam and parking lights? I kind of just want parking lights.

My question is this now. If he leaves his car on Auto light option (if that is an option). Is there even a point to wiring that in?

no relay needed its low current negative. you should wire it in for visual indications.

if you just want parking lights, you'll have to diode isolate your parking lights, rear is in the kick and fronts are in the engine bay

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

tedmond wrote:

no relay needed its low current negative. you should wire it in for visual indications.

if you just want parking lights, you'll have to diode isolate your parking lights, rear is in the kick and fronts are in the engine bay

Yeah on that note he can have his head lights come on.

Thank you so much for everything!

One last problem.

The car starts/stops perfectly fine when the main key is near the car.

The valet key which I removed the battery and key from is being used with the bypass module.

I did loops and tapped the loops to the back side of the valet key. Car will not start with just this.

I then took the key apart and taped the key to the board itself. Car still will not start.

If I put the other key by the door then the car starts fine.

I checked the white loop wire that ties into the WHITE/ red vehicle side immobilizer wire.

So wizzed off right now.

I hope I am doing something wrong.

On the circuit board for the intelligent key there is a round piece at the top. Put your coil over that and try it again.

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Nissan Master Tech.

Okay I will try that today.

Also I wired the rs trunk output to the trunk wire in the harness next to the obd port.

When i hit aux it says trunk and nothing happens. Is this because it is motorized trunk open and close? I hope I will be able to get it working!

Any thoughts?

What color was the wire you connected the trunk to? I think it should be yellow. Test that wire while operating the switch on the dash. If it goes to ground when it is pressed then you should be able to control it with the remote start.

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Nissan Master Tech.

I followed the guide. It said to use light green wire. It's on page one under the idatalink instructions.

Thanks!

I would test it to see what it does. The 2 guides I checked both say yellow wire for release and light green for the trunk/hatch pin. If you test at the switch i would guess that the yellow goes to ground first and the light green grounds as the gate releases. when you press the trunk release on the remote does the dome light turn on?

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Nissan Master Tech.

mpe235 wrote:

I would test it to see what it does. The 2 guides I checked both say yellow wire for release and light green for the trunk/hatch pin. If you test at the switch i would guess that the yellow goes to ground first and the light green grounds as the gate releases. when you press the trunk release on the remote does the dome light turn on?

OK I just checked the Nissan Service manual. It looks like you have the correct wire. It shows light green to pin 22 at the Bcm. I would just test the function of the wire you are connected to to make sure it is the right one.

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Nissan Master Tech.

I am confused about this now.

Page 1 in my OP I posted a picture of the idatalink guide.

It says to hook up the trunk output to the light green.

You are saying it is wrong and I need to find a yellow wire somewhere and that the light green is just a trunk status?

No, sorry about that. It appears the other guides have it listed wrong. My Nissan Service manual is showing light green at pin 22.

I can try to check one at work tomorrow. Sometimes even the factory service manuals are wrong. I have seen it on several occasions.

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Nissan Master Tech.

So I think that I wired it to the wrong thing. I did not wire it to the BCM I wired it to a plug that sits by the OBDII port.

I am thinking about the BCM it self and there is no little green plug like the one listed there.

I am now thinking that the plug I should of wen't to is connected to a switch on the dash panel.. Possibly a switch to "pop" the liftgate?

What are the chances I find another plug with that color in the same spot...

I will see soon.

jsigna wrote:

So I think that I wired it to the wrong thing. I did not wire it to the BCM I wired it to a plug that sits by the OBDII port.

I am thinking about the BCM it self and there is no little green plug like the one listed there.

I am now thinking that the plug I should of wen't to is connected to a switch on the dash panel.. Possibly a switch to "pop" the liftgate?

What are the chances I find another plug with that color in the same spot...

I will see soon.

You would be surprised how many of the same color wires are on these things now. I think the best bet would be go directly to the switch.

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Nissan Master Tech.

I think I need to tap into the lift gate button and that will fix me up.

Also FYI the yellow wire it for non powered lift gates. Light green is for powered.

From Jedi Master Ted:

If it's not a powered trunk release
Yellow (-) @ bcm 40 pin green plug. Pin 16

If powered you should get it at the trunk rekease switch. Light green (-) @ switch green 8 pin plug pin 6

jsigna wrote:

I think I need to tap into the lift gate button and that will fix me up.

Also FYI the yellow wire it for non powered lift gates. Light green is for powered.

From Jedi Master Ted:

If it's not a powered trunk release
Yellow (-) @ bcm 40 pin green plug. Pin 16

If powered you should get it at the trunk rekease switch. Light green (-) @ switch green 8 pin plug pin 6

That makes sense. Were you able to get the coil to read the key?

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Nissan Master Tech.