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2007 Toyota 4Runner, Viper 4806Printed From: the12volt.comForum Name: Car Security and Convenience Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc. URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=138520 Printed Date: May 11, 2025 at 10:38 PM Topic: 2007 Toyota 4Runner, Viper 4806 Posted By: unclebeansie Subject: 2007 Toyota 4Runner, Viper 4806 Date Posted: February 19, 2015 at 1:15 AM I'm looking to install a Viper 4806 RS in my 2007 4Runner V6 SE and wanted to confirm all of the connections required before I dive in. I do have quite a bit of experience with wiring and soldering but this will be my first remote starter install.
First off I'd like to keep most of the existing functions of the factory alarm and factory remotes including: -Lock: one press locks all doors, all 4 signal lights flash once and vehicle beeps once (not the horn) -Unlock: one press unlocks d/s door, second within 3sec unlocks the rest, all 4 signal lights flash twice and vehicle beeps twice (not the horn) -Back Window: Roll down back window on rear hatch when button is held down -Panic: I don't really care about maintaining this function Regarding the immobilizer bypass module I was thinking about getting the XpressKit PKTX as it comes with the correct firmware already loaded for this Toyota vehicle. Any thoughts on if this is a good unit to go with or not for my application? Other suggestions? On to the connections, please help me confirm and fill in the blanks/question marks. Remote Start / Bypass Unit Vehicle Connection Colour Description Colour Polarity Location H/1 Red (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT WHITE/ Blue(50A) (+) Ign. Harness H/2 Black (-) CHASSIS GROUND chassis ground H/3 Brown (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT not used? H/4 WHITE/ Brown LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a light flash relay not used? H/5 White PIN 30 of LIGHT FLASH RELAY Green (+) D/S Dash 16pp (set viper to +) H/6 Orange 500 mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT not used? 1 Blue 500mA (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT Green (-) D/S Kick 18pp 2 Empty NOT USED 3 Green 500mA (-) LOCK OUTPUT Blue (-) D/S Kick 18pp 1 Pink/White (-) 200mA Ignition 2/Flex OUTPUT not used? 2 Blue/White (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT To bypass module? 3 RED / White (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT not used? 4 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT not used? 5 Dark Blue (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT not used? 6 WHITE/ Black (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT not used? 7 WHITE/ Violet (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT not used? 8 ORANGE / Black (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT not used? 9 Gray (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO) not used? 10 Blue* FACTORY HORN INPUT (Use Jumper to set polarity) not used? 11 WHITE/ Blue ACTIVATION INPUT not used? 12 Violet/White** TACHOMETER INPUT BLACK/ White (ac) ECM behind glovebox or at data link connector under D/S dash 13 BLACK/ White*** (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY /PARKING BRAKE INPUT chassis ground 14 GREEN/ Black (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT not used? 15 Green** (-) DOOR INPUT not used? 16 Empty NOT USED 17 Pink (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT not used? 18 Violet** (+) DOOR INPUT not used? 19 Violet/Black (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT not used? 20 Brown (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT is this required to be connected? 21 Violet / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT not used? 22 Gray/Black (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT not used 23 Orange (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT not used? 24 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT not used? 1 RED / Black (+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT for ACC and starter relays WHITE/ Blue(50A) (+) Ign. Harness 2 Pink/Black (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY not used? 3 Pink/White (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT Blue / YELLOW (+) Ign. Harness 4 Red (+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT for ignition 1 relay WHITE/ Blue(50A) (+) Ign. Harness 5 Violet (+) STARTER OUTPUT GREEN/ Black (+) Ign. Harness 6 Orange (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT not required if you don't care about the radio, etc... coming on while remote started? 7 RED / White (+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT for ignition 2 and flex relays WHITE/ Blue(50A) (+) Ign. Harness 8 Pink (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT BLACK/ Red (+) Ign. Harness For the bypass module; obviously the 4pin D2D harness between the 4806 brain and module, then the four wires per PKTX instructions (assuming I get that module): - Rx - Tx - While Running (status): 4806 Aux harness pin2 (Blue/White)? - Key Sense: GREEN/ YELLOW (-) Ign. Harness Not sure where the back window fits into all of that? Don't suppose trunk release output or one of the aux outputs would work for that given the factory remote/function is having to hold down the button while the window lowers? Given that the majority of connections are at the ignition harness, are there vehicle specific prefabricated adapters out there that just T into the existing plugs? Minimize the number of factory wires you need to splice into. Thanks! Replies: Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: February 19, 2015 at 1:13 PM Remote Start / Bypass Unit Vehicle For the bypass module; obviously the 4pin D2D harness between the 4806 brain and module, then the four wires per PKTX instructions (assuming I get that module): ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: unclebeansie Date Posted: February 19, 2015 at 10:44 PM Thanks for the reply kreg. A few questions...
1. Is there a reason why you use the Red(30A) for 12VDC constant input on the main harness instead of WHITE/ Blue(50A)? 2. Is the H/3 Horn Honk connection needed? Is the factory beep/chirp when you lock/unlock the doors still maintained? 3. For Status output to the bypass, I read on this post that you're better off going with Blue/White instead of Dark Blue. Does it really matter? 4. Is the hood pin input a mandatory connection? I assume yes, as I see it on the start up diagnostics. Do you know if the hood trigger type is NO or NC for this vehicle? 5. Do you know if it's possible to maintain the back window roll down function of the factory remote (and possibly add roll up function)? Do you need to use a relay with the trunk release output or one of the aux outputs? Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: February 20, 2015 at 4:58 AM Answers : 1. If there are multiple +12V constant sources available at the main ignition switch harness, I like to split / balance the 2. The Horn connection is optional. While the vehicle has a nice audible output when using the factory remotes, I don't 3. Interesting information about the (-) Status Output wire as compared to the (-) 2nd Status Output wire. You learn 4. According to the info I have, the Factory Hood pin ( if installed ) is a standard N.O. circuit. It will show chassis ground (-) 5. The factory remotes should continue to work normally, except when the engine is running. I would use a window ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: unclebeansie Date Posted: February 20, 2015 at 12:00 PM Thanks again kreg.
2. With the horn honk output, given this is just a remote starter, do you know if this is solely used for notification honks when unlock/lock is triggered? This doesn't affect the factory alarm sounding the horn does it? What I'm thinking of doing is connecting the factory piezo buzzer to this H/3 horn honk output connection instead of the horn. Think that would work? I just don't want the piezo buzzer becoming the new alarm sound if the alarm is triggered. Posted By: tedmond Date Posted: February 20, 2015 at 5:07 PM 1. As Kreg mentioned, if you have the ability divide your constant 12v connections. No real benefit besides preventing overload.
2. Horn is only needed for audible confirmation. The factory beep does not stay intact. The viper 4806 sounds the horn on lock, unlock, and start by default. I find this VERY annoying.Changes can be made in programming. IMO It should only notify you on Second lock. You will not get the signature toyota/lexus "beep" by using the horn wire. No you cannot integrate into it, as the sound is generated by the oem speaker which creates the beep. If you want the oem sounds, purchase a piezo siren from radioshack- this becomes a stand alone 3. There are 2 status wires, both defaulted are GWR wires. The second status can be changed for rear defrost purposes: aka Rear defogger out. This output can be triggered by aux 1 or under 55degrees automatically Rear defrost: GREEN/ Red (-) @ Right side of fuse box. Middle Plug Pin 1 4. Hood pin in mandatory. I've always put them in. 5. roll up and down can be integrated into the viper. You need two relays: Roll down: BLACK/ Blue (+) Roll up: Yellow/Red (+) Common: BLACK / YELLOW (+) Roll down: Short BLACK / YELLOW & BLACK/ Blue @ Right side of fuse box. Middle Plug Pin 8 & 19 Roll Up Short BLACK / YELLOW & Yellow/Red @ Right side of fuse box. Middle Plug Pin 10 & 19 85 - aux down or up 86 - constant 12v fused @ 2 amps Diode across 85/86 Silver band towards 86 87 - common 30 - down or up Although the 4806 is NOT an alarm, it has the ability to page you if an intrusion occurs. extra wiring involved. ------------- Ted 2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries Compustar Expert Posted By: unclebeansie Date Posted: February 21, 2015 at 1:24 AM Thanks for the info Ted.
2. Ya, with a bit more research and confirming it in the service manual and wiring diagrams I have, the piezo here is actually a small speaker given an audio signal from the ECU. Too bad. Good suggestion; a cheap 12V piezo seems like the way to go. So just connect the piezo (+) to a 12V supply wire and (-) to the horn honk output (H/3)? 3. I'll give the dark blue a try first for status to bypass leaving the 2nd status free to use with defog. So just to confirm the defog functionality... If I hook up the 2nd status/defog output up to the defog, the defog will automatically come on after 10seconds of being remotely started if the temp. is below 55degF? I don't need to change the option of the feature to latch or pulse do I? 5. Ya, I'll go the two relay route if I decide I want to keep this feature. A lot cheaper than a module. Posted By: tedmond Date Posted: February 21, 2015 at 6:33 AM 2) correct. a relay might be needed to increase current on the ground.
3) it automatically turns on below 55degrees. changes are required Menu 3 Item 11 Option 3. ------------- Ted 2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries Compustar Expert |
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