DEI Remote Start install 08 Camry Push Start

Hi everyone. I installed my Viper 5501 into a 94 Lexus in the past which didn't require any bypass modules, so putting this into my 08 Camry Push to start is going to be a little re-learning I imagine but it looks like it should be pretty straight forward.

My first question is does anyone know of an bypass module that I can use with a Viper 5501 remote start which will allow take over of the vehicle without shutting down the engine when a door opens? My wife's Nissan has push to start also (I didn't install this unit) but her's allows her to get in and drive without it shutting down when a door opens as long as she unlocks the doors with the door handle button first.

no bypass module from the big 3 offer takeover. Unfortunately that's the nature of the vehicle, and how the OEM remote start would work as well. Only select nissan,lexus and its counterpart vehicles have takeover available. Most PTS vehicles now will shutdown upon opening.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Would relay interrupting the driver door trigger during RS get around this? Oh the bloody complications with PTS.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Unfortunately Howie the shut down is required because of the way the BCM interprets the remote start condition vs the normal (pts) key operation. For security reasons as well as safety reasons the door pin monitoring should not be bypassed unless the manufacturers suggest doing so.

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

OK, thanks.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks for the replies. So do you guys think this is pretty much how it's going to be for this model of Camry or is there any hope of firmware down the road from any manufacturers that could do it?

Ok, So here is the install guide for my 5501 remote starter:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B82c-bcI84jlc05xcG9RQ0NIclU/view?usp=sharing

And here is the DBALL2 instructions for my vehicle, I'm going off of the page 11 instructions "Installation Type 3b (with T-Harness TLTH1)":

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B82c-bcI84jlenB5MXM3dk5LRVk/view?usp=sharing

Couple of questions....

*Need advise on which wire from the remote starter would be the "(+)Ignition Output" to hook up to the DBALL2 "(+)Ignition Status Output".

*For parking light polarity, I see the fuse jumper inside the remote starter is currently set to (+) polarity for my old Lexus ES, that has to be moved over to (-) polarity, correct? And then H1/11 (white) connects to Pin 18 on the vehicle harness? (Refer to pages 20 & 36 I believe)

*From what I can tell I shouldn't need to wire any relays anywhere in this installation, is this correct?

*Does anything need to be set on the remote starter for it to begin talking to the DBALL2 over D2D? Wondering since it was a standalone direct wire unit with no bypass module on it's last install.

H3/1 Pink is your Ignition output to the DB-ALL

Even though it is not listed in the DB-ALL guide, you will probably have to connect the H3/5 Red to a constant 12 volt source, as this is the input for the H3/1 ignition wire output.

Looks to be correct on the parking light polarity and wiring.

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You can have takeover if you want. However, this would make the OEM keyless entry, and the OEM Smart Key features, inoperative during remote starting. So, when the remote starter is on, you'd have to use the aftermarket remote to unlock the door.

Go to fortin.ca and put in the car, and then look at the different installation guides/methods available.

Thanks for the replies, much appreciated.

NEED HELP PLEASE

I'm all wired in. While attempting to remote start the vehicle ignition turns on with climate control, dash lights, radio, etc. The dash light to signify no key present stays lit. The vehicle doesn't turn over at all and the ignition shuts down after about 5 seconds. It tries 3 times total then my 2-way remote gives me an error signal but I don't get any feedback from the parking lights or the DBALL2 LED.

I re-programmed the DBALL2 which had no affect.

I'm going off the Type 3b wiring diagrams here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B82c-bcI84jlenB5MXM3dk5LRVk/view?usp=sharing

I verified with a continuity tester that the STSW wire is making a connection. Other than that wire it appears I don't need to make any other vehicle connections based on the instructions due to the harness. It says the wires 1 & 2 from the 12-pin DBALL connector are optional. Should I wire these in anyway?

The vehicle light signifying key not present must be the heart of my problem I imagine? Not sure where to go next with this....

I was slightly mistaken about the vehicle light.

I just tried starting the vehicle normally but without the smart key fob in the car and the dash LCD display actually says "Key Not Present" which isn't happening while trying to remote start. The light I was speaking of in my previous post is actually labeled as "Security" and that does stay lit when trying to remote start.

verify the connections for the stsw and OBD.

OBD - controls convenience features + immobilizer
STSW - start cycle

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Do you have the H3/5 Red connected to a constant 12 volt?

And, did the DBALL program per the steps in the install guide?

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tedmond wrote:

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verify the connections for the stsw and OBD.

OBD - controls convenience features + immobilizer
STSW - start cycle

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The OBD connections are through the TLTH1 harness that I purchased, wouln't that be something if it ended up being a bad harness. The STSW connection is good. I double and triple checked that one.

smokeman1 wrote:

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Do you have the H3/5 Red connected to a constant 12 volt?

And, did the DBALL program per the steps in the install guide?

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Yes and yes. I'm going to go double check the H3/5 right now though just to make sure I did in fact use the right wire.

Verified that H3/5 Red is connected to constant +12V. Multimeter shows +12V on H3/1 Pink while attempting to remote start.

I'm sort of thinking... are there any settings on the remote starter that I should be changing so it "knows" the meat of whats going on should be through D2D? I unplugged the D2D wire and started the remote start via remote and the relays clicking inside the Remote Starter sound exactly the same. I'm wondering if maybe it's not giving the DBALL2 a chance to start the car before it cancels because it thinks there's an issue.

Just out of curiosity sake, look on the side of the 5501 where the cover is. There are 2 jumpers. Make sure they are horizontal = and not II

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

OK I got it working! Tachometer setting for the remote starter has four options: Virtual Tachometer (which is what it was set at), Voltage, Off, or Tachometer. I changed it to Tachometer and we're in business.

NEW QUESTION

When the vehicle is started normally by push to start all keyless lock functions are disabled including on the Viper remote. Can I hook up the lock outputs from the Viper module to the vehicle lock wires and have this function back on the Viper remote while the car is running? I'm looking for a way to have the car stay running and be able to lock the doors so I can run into a store, etc. with the vehicle running.