5704 Python dball2, 2003 Camry

****Moved from https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=136184&tpn=11****

I'm new to this sight and this is my first alarm install. I know the post says 5706 but most on here are on the 5704 due to the member creating this post changing it to 5704. my question is regarding the dball2 and a python 5704p install. I installed the Dball and the 5704 alarm on my 2003 Camry 3 days ago later that day my check engine light came on yesterday it started having problems starting. I stopped at auto zone and it pulled 5 codes misfires and coolant temp being high. coming home that night my hood started smoking I immediately pulled over and popped my hood. the coolant reservoir had pooped its cap and steam coming from it there was no coolant in the car. I waited for the car to cool off and filled my car with water and antifreeze,
Today I pulled the wires from my car alarm and restarted. first off I want to say I realized I was suppose to split the ignition wire then run one wire from the 5704 to key side and anther to ignition side I found a few diagrams showing different ways of doing this some incorporate the starter wires I'll try to post a picture. basically if you could tell me from the beginning what wire go where from the beginning for a 2003 Camry dball2 and python 5704 I have it flashed with the correct firmware TL1 and it says to use type 4 I have read the diagrams and I think I know what I'm doing but like splitting the ignition wire got by me I have relays and read on her how to do that with the starter wire I'm sure I will have more questions I will try to put in the next post.


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William W Rabon

my car does have two starter wires I didn't post in form of a question. Sorry I'm not trying to waist my time I mean your time. But I was making sure I didn't have to cut wires. So Relays and my two starter wires?? If You could just tell me which wires on this pic I'm about to post I should connect??? And I just want to be sure that I couldn't have done anything with the wiring to cause it to overheat.?? or the check engine light to come on?.




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William W Rabon

Thank you TED. you posted while I was typing. I've been to https://www.bulldogsecurity.com I think I had the wiring Right just double checking. But thanks for the free search engine. That relay Is what I had I think. I was missing the diode knowingly though I need to get one. What amp I think they come in amp maybe 1 or 2.Or by getting a 1n4004 does that provide the amp?

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William W Rabon

Use a 1N4004 or 1N4007 for the relays coil quenching.  It's not the amperage but the voltage spike level ( 200V + ) that you are concerned about.

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Soldering is fun!

for the h3 harness the big one it says violet starter out put car side,   Green starter output key side but tedmond just mentioned the violet wire not the green one do I not worry about the green one and why???

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William W Rabon

You don't need to use the green on IF you don't cut the starter wire. Cutting the starter wire provides a "STARTER KILL" to the vehicle. Cutting the starter wire, violet to car side of cut wire, Green to Key side of cut wire.

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The setup with the violet and green wires is for vehicles that do not have immobilizers or where the vehicle's immobilizer is permanently disabled. It causes the remote starter to control whether your car receives signal to engage the starter.

In your setup, the DBALL bypasses your immobilizer only during remote start. Your car's immobilizer is still fully intact and effectively does exactly what this green wire does. So this wire is not needed. Your car will do the starter cut-out from factory.

The violet wire is an output wire. When the remote start system engages, it sends +12V to the violet when it engages the starter.

The green wire is an input wire. It simply watches for +12V from turning the physical key. If the system is armed, it doesn't send the +12V over the violet wire. If disarmed, it will.

The chip in your key is what tells your car whether to turn the starter. Without the chip, your car will disable the starter. This is why it's not needed. The DBALL "simulates" having a key with the correct chip.


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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

Thank both of Yall for the info and the in depth explanations I really appreciate it.

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William W Rabon

The lock output do I use the 3 pin harness green wire or the violet 24 pin # 12 wire I put a chart of my vehicle wiring on page 12

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William W Rabon

sorry the diagram is on page 11 and where do I put the lock output wire on my car?

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William W Rabon

You only want to hook up the wires that the DBALL installation manual describes. You probably don't need the lock harness on the remote start system.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

it's says lock out put On the installation diagram look on page 11
it's not locking the doors without it


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William W Rabon

I took a look at the diagram. You'll need the (un)lock harness four your install. You want to hook them up to the Power Lock and Power Unlock in your diagram. They're negative triggers in the driver side kick panel.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

please help I cant find the tx, rx data bus wires I have that there grn/wht and blu / YELLOW and there suppose to be at the ignition switch7 pin black by the key I've looked for about an hour and can't see it

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William W Rabon

Look for another connector adjacent to the key barrel, looking for those colours.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I can't find it anywhere I have a feeling It's either a different color or different area.

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William W Rabon

i see it right there. Looking at the first picture @ the ignition barrel, its towards the right side (next to the white plug with 2 wires. Look at the black sleeve, as The ring snaps into place, so carefully unclip it and the ring is fully accessible.

Take the top cover of the steering shroud off, and look from the top down. You should see 1 philips screw, and a white blocking plate. The plate covers the immobilizer wires. Its easier to just unclip the ring.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

no that's not it either I just double checked two wires red and blu / yellow

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William W Rabon

Will the car remote start without the key in the lock cylinder? If so, you won't need these wires because your car might not have an immobilizer. If you take that clear plastic ring off the cylinder, you should see a coil. If you don't see a coil, there's no immobilizer and you can't use these tx/rx wires. If there is a coil, look for a pair of wires in a single connector. It could be those BLACK/ grey wires on the white connector. You'd have to test them.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

w.w.rabon wrote:

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no that's not it either I just double checked two wires red and blu / yellow

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Tedmond might be right. How many pin holes are on this particular connector? Scratch colors for now. Does the connector have at least 5 pin holes? If I remember, the TX was pin 4 and rx was pin 5. Could have that backwards, but point being, sometimes the colors don't match up in DEI pinouts.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

Freqsounds may be right. I did a 2004 Camry, 4 cyl and did not need an immobilizer.

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well i just thought of something. Most 2011 switched to G keys. If thats the case,you have the wrong wiring AND the wrong firmware flashed.

take a look at your master key. Towards the head of the key, a small DOT or letter G will be stamped on the metal. If it says G, you need the TL5 firmware. Also the wires will be at the ODB, rather than the key cylinder.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Looks like the thread was highjacked by W.W, so lots of confusion going on. if you have an immobilizer, the connector is either a 5 or 7 pin connector. Depending on model, its at the ignition OR lower down the steering column.

Possible that it doesn't have one at all. Make all RS connections and attempt to start it.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

W.W. started his part of this thread on page 11

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When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation

This is why we start new threads no matter how much it's related to someone else's situation.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Just trying to start a new thread apparently I had hijacked another's.

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William W Rabon

sorry didn't realize you're suppose to start a new thread this is the first time I've ever used one of theses things. I just saw I had a 5704 and a dball though that as long as I was on topic I could post. Just imitating what I saw. But I tried to start a new thread and will continue my replies here. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=138708

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William W Rabon

yes I think you're right that wire harness only have two wires yeah if it is there I think the harness has 6 or 7 pins pin 4 or 5 is what I need. no my car alarm wont start when I try I beeps 7 times from what I researched I have it in manual and need to switch it to automatic I do this by ignition on then off hold command button until it beeps three times release press again and hold then press unlock on remote it will beep 2x ignition on then off again. I try to do this but when I press the command/valet button it doesn't do any thing no beep no light

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William W Rabon

you can't access programming without a door trigger connected. Temporarily ground the neg door trigger input, then proceed with programming.


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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I hooked up the door trigger thank you doctor. Now it doesn't chirp 1x or 2x I believe after holding it for about 4 seconds it chirps 3 times I could be wrong but it chirps more than once. I've tried doing several times holding down longer like 30 seconds and still only one response after about 4 seconds it chirps a few times I try to go thought switching it to automatic but no avail. also the trunk pop does that require a relay if so how do I wire it I've looked into it and have gotten two different explanations.

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William W Rabon

to program, it needs to see door triggers and ignition. verify your ignition input as well. read the programming instructions over, as they are not so easy for the diyer

you definitely need a relay
85 - trunk release of python
86/87constant 12v fused
cut trunk release wire in half
87a - trunk wire towards plug
300 - trunk wire away from plug

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Green H2 door trigger wire, verify it goes to ground when a door is opened.
Pink H3 heavy duty loom, make sure it goes live, AKA hot or 12 volts + on ignition.
Press and hold programming button with ignition on and door open.
Siren will chirp once after about 5 seconds for Menu 1, keep pressed to access further menus.
You need level 3, release button, press, release and hold, 1 chirp then press "arm" button on remote to change to auto.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.