Print Page | Close Window

pkall bypass module wiring problem

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=138733
Printed Date: April 28, 2024 at 7:01 PM


Topic: pkall bypass module wiring problem

Posted By: kreyzie
Subject: pkall bypass module wiring problem
Date Posted: March 26, 2015 at 11:55 PM

Hi recently i purchased a dei pkall immo bypass module. in the manual , the color code provided by dei is not as same as mine but both have 7 pins connector. Can i just follow the pin # for the installation ?

I have a JDM 2006 honda fit.
Dei color code as below

data = light GREEN/ black pin2
ignition = yellow/black
security light = RED / black pin 5
ground = brown yellow pin 1
12v = white pin 7

my immobilizer color code
pin 1 = BROWN / yellow
pin 2 = RED / blue
pin 3 = WHITE/ unknown
pin 4 = GREEN/ YELLOW
pin 5 = blue/orange
pin 6 = ORANGE / unknown
pin 7 = WHITE/ red

*unknown = not visible from picture

i have no problem tracing the ign/12v/ground with dmm but the problem is i am not sure which is the security light and data wire. What does the security light mean ? IS it the "smart" light in the gauge ?

im going to pair this bypass module with viper 5706v once i've done the viper installation.



Replies:

Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: March 27, 2015 at 7:14 AM
You should be able to go by pin locations.

A few tips for testing:

Ignition: Somewhere around 12 volts (doesn't have to be exact) with the ignition key in the On or Start position

Immobilizer Data: My experience is it'll measure around 4.2 volts positive when the engine is running. It's usually also a very small wire.

Security Light: That's the green light that has a picture of the key, in the instrument cluster. It should come on steady and then go out when you turn the ignition on. When you turn the ignition off, it should flash a few times.

The security light wire will test as a ground at any time the green light is on.

NOTES: The remote starter will work even if you don't interrupt the security light wire. However, the light will stay on during the remote start, and even after you turn the key on and drive the car. But....this would be OK just for testing. You could just do the data part, make sure the remote starter works, and then you know you got that part right. And then do the security light before you put the car back together.

Also, of course, the Honda security light won't work with the wire cut. So, what I sometimes like to do is this: Find the wire, get your wire cutter ready. Turn the car key on and off, and watch that green light flashing. Now cut the wire fast, and see if the light stops. If it does, you got the right wire. (And the car should still start and run even with the wire cut. You just won't see the light anymore.)




Posted By: kreyzie
Date Posted: March 28, 2015 at 9:44 AM
Chris , thank you for your reply.

After initial test today , ( before your reply) , i found something weird. on the ignition harness , i found 3 connectors, 1 is the main harness , 2 green connector. forget about the main. is just the power socket like ign , acc and starter. weird thing about this 2 green connector is when i unplugged them. first i unplugged the 7pin connector and im still able to turn my keyswitch and crank the car but engine wont run bcuz the gas supply got cutoff. no matter how long i crank , engine wont run. then i plugged it in and unplugged the 9pin connector. now i cant turn the keyswitch but with my backup key insert , i can turn and crank. no gas cutoff. engine start up n running. if that 7 pin was suppose to read n sense my immo chip , i shudnt be able to crank the engine. i switch knob to ign , non of the 7 wire gave me power except one constant 12v n ground.it seems to me like a gas cutoff thingy. my guess is that 9pin connector is the right one. theres a constant , ground and 1 ign powered wire. im so confused with dei manual now.




Posted By: kreyzie
Date Posted: March 29, 2015 at 12:53 AM
Hi Chris , ive captured a few shots of the wires.
Please take a look at the link..

https://postimg.org/gallery/1n9jcegmq/7ea130e9/
https://youtu.be/CoZzKMRSRn4




Posted By: kreyzie
Date Posted: March 29, 2015 at 1:04 AM
one more question , can i tap the ign wire from pkall module to any of my ign wire(heavy gauge ign wire) in my car or i must tap into the ign along with the immo connector ?




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: March 29, 2015 at 6:18 AM
any ignition is fine

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: kreyzie
Date Posted: April 03, 2015 at 9:47 AM
thanks guy. installed viper 5706v with pkall. remote start works well, only one issue left with the door lock. i follow the 3wire relay diagram but the door wont lock/ unlock. using the -lock/unlock from viper brain to trigger the relay. relay did supply power to the door but it wont lock or unlock. any help pls?




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 03, 2015 at 11:50 AM
Key sense wire must be connected. I can't remember the colour but it's a wire that goes to ground when you insert the key in the ignition switch.
One of two wires from a plug (not the green or ignition) at the ignition barrel.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: kreyzie
Date Posted: April 04, 2015 at 6:01 AM
did another test today. from the old aftermarket alarm (steelmate) , the locks and unlocks worked. then i put in relay for the reverse polarity , fused got burnt. test it with test light , found that 2wire from actuator is bacfeeding 12v+ . from the old alarm , unlock supply positive and lock will remain grounded but with viper , i have no coice to use relay but i dont know why it will backfeed positive.

relay wired as below

relay a 85 / relay b 86 - constant 12
relay a 86 - unlock from brain
relay b 85 - lock from brain
relay a 87 / relay b 87 - contant 12
relay a 87a / relay b 87a - ground
relay a 30 - unlock to actuator
relay b 30 - lock to actuator

this setup caused the fused to burn out when unplock or unlock button press. when i press unlock on fob and with test light on relay a 30 , the light lit. as well as relay b 30 test light lit. i removed both ground from 87a and test again with lock unlock , result same just that the fuse didnt burn out.




Posted By: kreyzie
Date Posted: April 04, 2015 at 11:47 PM
tks all. problem all solved





Print Page | Close Window