1999 Camaro And Python 533

Been searching for awhile.
Just want to Be sure Im doing this correctly.
Still Kinda iffy on the "Relay satellite4-pin connector" "status output connection.
Found a few things on the 1999 V6 camaro. But info for the Python 533 from Directed Electronics is pretty slim.
Here is my template. Ill get back online late tonight and tomorrow morning. Thankyou in advance.

Wow!
Crickets
Registered here because it seemed so active.
On to the next.
out

Topic moved to correct forum.

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the12volt • Support the12volt.com

Hi shaneret,
The picture you posted does not show your connections.
IS your question about the specific connection and its function? because "iffy" is not a good description of your problem.

What sort of issues are you having? what functions are not working properly?

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Nobody replied because your post doesn't ask anything!
Hence X 2 with icearrow6.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

shaneret wrote:

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Still Kinda iffy on the "Relay satellite 4-pin connector" "status output" connection.

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The "satellite 4-pin" outputs duplicate the outputs to the R/S satellite or on-board relays. These are used to trigger relays for additional IGN, START, or ACCY circuits. Your 99 Camaro does not require additional relays, so you will leave these Not Connected.

Purple = START
Pink = Ignition
Orange = Accessory

Blue = Status ( (-) trigger when RS is active).

Your "iffy-ness" seems to be regarding the blue "Status Output" on this connector. The STATUS wire goes (-) when a Remote Start is initiated, and remains low while the RS is active. When RS deactivates, times-out, or is cancelled by key takeover, STATUS output is removed. The most common use for STATUS is to trigger a bypass, but there are a number of situations this output can be used in.

You didn't mention which bypass you're using. Most of the bypasses for the GM's of the era need a "status" input to tell them the RS is active. You have 2 choices for the 533 output:

A: H3/5 blu/wht "2nd Status" is available when NOT programed for rear defogger. 2nd Status is the default. If you are NOT going to use the DEFOG, use this connection, and leave the 4-pin vacant.

B: IF you DO wish to use the blu/wht wire for the DEFOG feature, you will have to use the 4-pin blue Satellite Status output for your bypass.

I think you DID "ask a question", so hopefully this answers it.

O.K. good thing I came back.
I was getting tired and a little frustrated.
I am sorry.
So I stepped away for a day and came back to it fresh.
davep. Thankyou so much.
The install manual wants me to "cut" the starter wire and connect (purple) starter output wire to the starter side of cut. And connect (green) starter input wire to the Ign. switch side of the cut. good thing I did not do that. My question on this.If I leave the Purple,Pink and Orange not connected.How does the starter solenoid get its engage signal?
Do I still connect the (Pink) Ign. output and (Red) constant 12V to the assigned places? Pink and Red heavy wires coming off Ign switch?
My bypass module is from 3rdbrakeflasher.com. And it wants a Pos+ 12 V. All my module aux outputs ar neg- .So I connected the pos+ to a constant +12V and connected the ground- to Blue- status output.
Thanks for your help. If you ever cme around Seattle. Dinners on me.

The instructions are correct!
Heavy gauge wires, H3/1 purple to cut starter side; H3/2 green to cut key side. If you don't want to do a starter cut, just connect H3/1 purple to the starter wire.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Do not get confused between the large gauge wires that DO get connected, and the small gauge wires of the same colors/function in the 4-pin connector that do NOT get connected in a 99 Camaro.

I'm not certain which style of heavy-gauge switching the 533 has. It is either an on-board relay package with a specific large-gauge harness, or a "Satellite Relay" package that is divorced from the 533 and attached with a 6-conductor ribbon cable. In either case, the heavy gauge connections are the same.

533 heavy wire == car side at ignition switch:
green == key side of cut yellow
purple == car side of cut yellow
pink == pink
orn == orn
(3) red, fused == red (all 3 can go on the one red. That's the way the car works).
pink/wht == brown (Program "FLEX relay" to ACCY function).

NOTE: Brown is the radio and wipers. These don't have to be powered during a remote start. If you do power them, the Retained Accy Power in the car will keep the radio on until it times out, or a door is opened. There is a work-around for this, but if the idea of the radio staying on for 10 minutes after a RS time-out bothers you, don't power the brown accy wire during RS. Another consideration (especially in Seattle) is that you may park the car with the wipers on because it is raining. But the next time you RS it, it may not be raining, and the wipers will be dry-wiping. Something to think about. (I do a lot of GM's. I no longer power the brown wire for a RS).

Thanks for the dinner offer. Unfortunately, I don't get up to Seattle any longer. I used to have a client with a yacht we serviced at Delta Marine every Spring, and I'd spend 8-10 weeks in So Seattle. I would become bored as hell, I would have welcomed the company. You can see Delta Marine from the 99 just before Marginal Way off ramp. There's usually several LARGE yachts on the river in front of the facility.

Cheers

Yep, Big $$ in that area. But for every Bently there are 100 homeless people.
Then after dinner. From there to Pioneer Square. For Music and Oh, whatever. Got a wee bit off topic.
Ahhhhh. It all comes to light. Think I got it now.
The 533 comes with a XRCS 500M relay satellite. So all I got left are those Hvy Gauge wires. Then the 5 wire relay setup for the door locks. and done. Do I need 2 relays per door? And how do I incorporate the progressive unlock function?
I don't have a bitwriter or Xloader. Can I still program one of the Aux connections to constant 12v or ground for my VATs fuel cutoff bypass. Whats your opinion on that? The bypass.

shaneret wrote:

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Then the 5 wire relay setup for the door locks. and done. Do I need 2 relays per door? And how do I incorporate the progressive unlock function?

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Door locks, with driver's priority Unlock:

Find the tan wire for the driver lock motor. It can be found at the Body Control Module Pin A of connector C1, or in the drivers kick panel. The tan wire you want is +12 V with locks in UNLOCK. Test.

You need one relay for the Driver's Unlock.
Cut the Tan wire.
30 = Tan towards the lock motor
87a = Tan towards the Car
87 = Hot at all times (fused)
86 = Hot at all times
85 = Door Lock 3-pin connector, LtBlu UNLOCK
Put a 1Amp diode between 85 and 86, band towards 86.

To complete the lock wiring, you don't need any more relays. Find the following wires either in the kick panel, at the BCM, or at the door switch. These are smaller gauge than the Tan lock motor wire above. Wire as follows:

car = 533 connecton
orn/blk = H2/1 LtBlu 2nd Unlock
RED / blk = Door Lock 3-pin connector, Green, LOCK.

shaneret wrote:

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I don't have a bitwriter or Xloader. Can I still program one of the Aux connections to constant 12v or ground for my VATs fuel cutoff bypass. Whats your opinion on that? The bypass.

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Control your bypass with the STATUS wire previously discussed. The VATS only needs to be bypassed during Remote Start. don't control the bypass independently with an Aux. No need to.

When you're done, get in the car and arm the alarm. Set it off by opening the door. Try to start it with the key. It shouldn't crank. Disarm the alarm, and it should crank and start with the key.