DBALL2 with no power

Back story: I have a 2012 Silverado that I installed a Viper 5706v and DBALL2 in D2D configuration on this past Saturday. EVERYTHING was working! But, I had to fit everything up behind the dash, so I started cutting unnecessary wires from the harnesses. Of course, I had them plugged into the units... Well, all was well when I did one at a time, but I got impatient and clipped all unused wires from the Blue harness... Something popped, and I think the DBALL now smells like burnt electronics

Investigation: I opened up the DBALL and saw no visible component damage. All power and grounds seem to have continuity b/w the Viper and DBALL via D2D cable.
I also ordered a new DBALL2 and plugged it up to the existing harnesses (since i was certain that I had just fried the DBALL2 with my idiotic cutting).
Could I have popped the ignition diode and this would cause my issue? I haven't cut the wiring up in the truck to check that. Could I have hurt my OBD CAN line? The wires that were attached in the Blue harness were Ignition, 12V in, and CAN. Can't find any popped fuses. Where should I start looking? I'm going to measure voltages tomorrow that are coming out of the D2D harness (today's my anniversary... don't thing the wife will let me work on my truck). Any input is VERY welcomed, even if you want to chastise me for clipping all wires at once AND leaving it connected to the brains while doing it. Thanks!

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2012 Silverado LT

Also, just some more info... ALL connections are soldered except for Viper ground that is tied into the accelerator bolt. But, the Viper itself does have power and reacts to remote input

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2012 Silverado LT

Man, hard to believe no one even wanted to get on my case about my errors! I'm doing more diagnostics tonight... including changing the diode. Will update my findings, hopefully there are findings!

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2012 Silverado LT

Have you got 12 volts at the black and red, white D2D on the DB-ALL?
I think you've fried the DB-ALL.
The blue plug feeds a pair of internal relays, you might have blown them.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Well, I figured it out! After lots of voltage and continuity testing, I found the problem.

When I tested the RED / black off of the d2d, coming out of the viper, I was getting 12v. When I connected the dball, I was getting around 3.5 volts. So, I got crazy, and connected direct 12v to red, and grounded black, to the dball, with nothing else hooked up. I GOT POWER!! So, I figure something is screwy with voltage control in my Viper. Ground was still good, so I cut the red d2d cable and tied it into a constant 12v (behind a fuse) and everything works!!

Now, if anyone knows how to get entry/exit lighting on a silverado with the system, let me know.

I'll post a marked up diagram when i get a chance in case someone else gets this problem. I'm holding onto the new DBALL2 for a couple of days, in case something happens and the old one is doomed to fail, but will likely be returning it.

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2012 Silverado LT

Here's a terrible drawing of my fix to power on the DBALL2. Hope it helps if anyone else has this issue!!!

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2012 Silverado LT

I'm having a similar issue with my dball2 not powering up in d2d mode. I've tried resetting and reflashing to no avail, the LED will not come on thus not allowing me to program key or reset module. The readings between the red and black wires with the harness plugged into the alarm system and open on the other end (not plugged in to bypass) read 4v. Are these similar symptoms to what you're experiencing and how has your fix been working for the past few days? What size fuse did you put on your red wire that was connected to 12v constant? thanks for the posting!

Very similar. Simple test is to make a connecting direct to 12v thats connected to the red in the harness and ground the black. Do this with the dball only, so not connected to anything accept this d2d harness. My makeshift wiring was just taking the 16 gauge wire I had and bending some strands to shove in the pins, but be careful not to arc. If you get the led, then my fix may work.

As for the fuse, all I did was splice into a power line between the fuse and the harness that plugged into my viper, that way any issues are intercepted there.

It's worked flawlessly since the fix. I'm going to call the company I got the 2 units from on Monday to return the 2nd unit. Good luck! And let me know if you have any other questions

Disclaimer, this was my first rs install, but I'm fairly competent with electronics and had my buddy who is an EE hello me trace my power issues.

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2012 Silverado LT

Also, if you don't want to splice into d2d cable, you may be able to use the other dedicated 12v and ground in the blue harness, but I didn't do that. Also, all connections are soldered

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2012 Silverado LT

This fixed my issue. Thanks so much for posting your solution jpmaniac87. The remote start worked great for 2 weeks then stopped working. Now it's back up and running just in time for this summer, man I was really getting stressed about this (my ocd was kickin in)! Can't thank you enough for your post. I also read a similar thread that stated viper units often can't provide sufficient power for the bypass which confirms your findings. Enjoy your RS and thanks again!