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2005 F150, installing Avital 5303L and PKFM

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=139374
Printed Date: May 09, 2021 at 11:33 AM


Topic: 2005 F150, installing Avital 5303L and PKFM

Posted By: s20dbond
Subject: 2005 F150, installing Avital 5303L and PKFM
Date Posted: August 31, 2015 at 11:48 AM

I'm new here. I've installed a couple of remote starts in my vehicles in the past, but never a full fledged alarm and remote start. Now, as the title says, I'm installing an Avital 5303L withe the PKFM bypass in a 2005 F150 FX4. I've already hooked up the PKFM, Heavy gauge relay satellite harnesses. Ive mounted the siren, led and antenna, but I am kind of confused on some things. I've studied the Avital install manual, Ford motor company wiring diagrams for my truck, and the wire color chart for my truck from Bulldog security.

1. Do I take the 4 pin cable from the PKFM straight to the D2D port on the alarm main box? The 4 pin cable came with connectors on both ends.

2. I plugged the shock sensor into the main box, and connected the blue wire on the main harness H1/7 with the extra green wire from the shock sensor connector. Is this correct?

3. Where do H1/10 (WHITE/ blue), and H1/12 (orange) go?

Thanks
Doug



Replies:

Posted By: s20dbond
Date Posted: September 01, 2015 at 8:30 AM
bump,

anyone? Maybe even point me to a previous thread that could help me. I did multiple searches, but came up with nothing.

Doug




Posted By: dasbogie
Date Posted: September 01, 2015 at 2:34 PM
1. you can do that but if your avital isn't activating the bypass you may have to cut the 4 pin and hardwire to the avital or vehicle.

2. If you've plugged the shock sensor in the the brain then you shouldn't have to do any more wiring. the extra green wire would be to add sensors as well as the blue wire from the brain. It just gives you a lot of flexibility in adding sensors. Also, I believe they report different zones as well.


3. WHITE/ blue from avital would be the activation input which is used to activate the r/s maybe thru a relay using the factory remote or some other means than the avital remote. Usually not needed.

The orange wire would be the Ground when armed usually to activate starter kill relays, extra leds to blink when the alarm is armed something of that nature, usually not needed.

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Posted By: s20dbond
Date Posted: September 02, 2015 at 1:26 PM
Thanks for the reply. You wouldn't happen to know on an f150, a good place to tap into the neutral safety switch wire?

Doug




Posted By: dasbogie
Date Posted: September 03, 2015 at 6:27 AM
if this is for the remote start, you do not need to, the safety is already built into the vehicle if it's auto trans. From the factory you can put the car in drive and try to crank it and it will not start.

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Posted By: s20dbond
Date Posted: October 04, 2015 at 4:54 AM
I've got everything installed,and for the most part, everything seems to be working fine. However, for some reason when the system is armed,and I activate the remote start, the alarm goes off and the remote tells me that a door has been opened. This vehicle has negative door triggers, and I picked them up coming out of the bcm, and diode isolated them. I even tried replacing the main brain of the alarm thinking maybe it was a defective unit.

Doug




Posted By: s20dbond
Date Posted: October 04, 2015 at 11:03 PM
Bump




Posted By: s20dbond
Date Posted: October 05, 2015 at 7:01 PM
No one has any ideas?

Doug




Posted By: davep.
Date Posted: October 06, 2015 at 12:53 AM

I have no first hand experience with your problem, but I read a lot, and have a terrific memory. This is intended as fodder for further research on your part.

I believe this era of Ford trucks have BCM's that go to sleep. When the RS activates the ignition, the BCM wakes up, and the Avital sees a momentary low voltage that it interprets as an open door.

There is a Directed Tech article on this. They suggest diode-isolate the BCM from the Avital, AND provide 10K ohm resistor to each door trigger to keep the Avital's input(s) at >0volt, unless a door is actually open, pulling the input to ground.

You cut the wire for each door switch to the BCM.

Each BCM input gets a diode, non-band towards the BCM.

4 diodes with the non-band ends common to the Avital (-) trigger door input.

Join each BCM diode, and each Avital diode in the "center". The bands "face" each other, with the door switch, and the resistor connected at the "center" too.

 Connect one end of a 10,000 ohm resistor to each junction in the "center". 4 resistors total. Connect  the other ends of the resistors to 12V hot at all times. Hence the junction between the diodes will be "pulled-up" to >0volts at all times, regardless if the BCM is asleep or not. Until the door is open, and the switch pulls that input to 0-Volts.

I wish I could post the article and the diagram, but its on my other machine that does not have internet access, and I don't know how to get the file into this machine to post it. It can be found. Several mid-2000's Fords have this issue.





Posted By: s20dbond
Date Posted: October 06, 2015 at 2:53 PM
I found a DEI tech tips #1076 10 03. Is this the one you're referring to? It doesn't say anything about resistors though.

Doug




Posted By: davep.
Date Posted: October 06, 2015 at 5:19 PM

I should have read it again before posting. I have a good memory, but I guess not "terrific". The tip is for Normally CLOSED door triggers. Fords are normally open. I still think the strategy I outlined above would work. But there must be a solution for this out there somewhere.

The tip I was referencing is tech tip 1921 10-09

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EDIT:  Here's a couple more thoughts.

You say the remote indicates "door open" is causing the alarm. Look at the LED when it triggers. Door trigger is 3 flashes. If it isn't 3 flashes, it's another trigger. Be sure you're chasing the correct gremlin.

 Why did you use the door switches? Most of my experience is with GM, but I've done a couple of Fords, and I used the blk/blu wire at the dome lights. Program the Avatal for "no door open chirps" so you don't get warnings from the delayed dome lights. You also use the (+) door trigger input on the Avatal. Worked fine for me, and a lot less work than intercepting all the door inputs to the BCM.

There's some more ideas.





Posted By: s20dbond
Date Posted: October 07, 2015 at 2:46 PM
I don't know how to attach files here, but I added diodes to the door trigger wires with non striped ends torward the bcm, according to the tech tip I listed earlier, 1076. It works exactly as it is supposed to now. Thanks for your help Davep. I wouldn't have had any idea where to look without your help. I also discussed it with and Electrical Engineer friend of mine, and he helped me quite a bit too. He explained why I needed to add the diodes in the way that I did.

Thanks,
Doug





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