Can I use my immobilizer light as Wait to Start?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=139426
Printed Date: July 05, 2025 at 8:09 AM

Topic: Can I use my immobilizer light as Wait to Start?

Posted By: halo1982-num2
Subject: Can I use my immobilizer light as Wait to Start?
Date Posted: September 13, 2015 at 12:41 PM

OK, weird questions, but here it goes.

2002 Acura TL-S. Has a Viper 5806v installed with PKall bypass.

Background info:

Occasionally, when I am trying to start the car I get the immobilizer light flashing, engine cranks but won't turn over (because of the immobilizer kicking in).

This happened before the Viper and happens with and without the key, so if I'm trying to remote start it sometimes it cranks six times and then gives up. If I put the key in I wait until the light goes off before trying to start. If the light is flashing I take out the key and have to try a few more times before it goes off.

It's quite annoying and quite intermittent. So in an effort to add a bit longer to the life of my starter I ask:

Question 1) Is it safe to hook up my immobilizer light to the diesel wait-to-start input in the Viper? I found the wire at the instrument cluster (pink wire, pin B9 on cluster B) and I confirmed it pulses -12v when flashing (this is with + wire hooked to 12v constant and - wire on multimeter connected to immobilizer light), and goes to 0 when off. I already tapped the wire, but I thought I would ask the experts before hooking it up as that pink wire goes directly to my ECM. And I do not want to kill the ECM.

Question 2) If it is safe to hook to the wait to start wire do I need to add a diode or anything? One of the install guides I have says put a diode in between the light and the ECM, is this necessary? If so can I put a diode in between the wait to start input and the tap to the ECM instead?

Question 3) This has happened ever since I bought the car (2012), however I'm not sure if the car came that way or if it's an issue with the remote start I had installed 2 days later (look it was 0 degrees F here that winter!). At one point six months ago the car *would not start* and I had to take it in. They found the main relay was bad (which was the main problem) and disconnected the immobilizer bypass/remote start (because "those are nothing but problems"). Could it be an issue with the PKall? Or just a loose connection? (I've double checked those but I also don't know how secure they are because I didn't make them). Would you recommend replacing the PKall, and if so would you go with another PKall or one of the iDatalink ADS-ALCA or ADS-TB.

Thanks.

Replies:

Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: September 13, 2015 at 4:51 PM

Get the immobiliser sorted by a Honda dealer in the long term cheaper than what you're suggesting which I doubt will work.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Posted By: halo1982-num2
Date Posted: September 13, 2015 at 9:14 PM

howie ll wrote:

Get the immobiliser sorted by a Honda dealer in the long term cheaper than what you're suggesting which I doubt will work.

The Acura dealer already "fixed" it for $400 and a new main relay by killing the remote start. When typing this up I'm fairly certain that there is some sort of relationship between the RS and immobilizer not disabling.

I actually did hook it up how I suggested and it works exactly as intended. The car doesn't remote start now until the light goes off. I probably should throw a diode in there because when the light is off its sending 12V to the Viper Wait-To-Start wire which probably isn't good for it.

To move on to the next item, the bypass, anyone have any opinions of the PKALL vs the ADS-ALCA (Or probably ADS-TB since its older and can't do all the CANBUS stuff the ALCA can do). If I was connecting the ADS it would be with D2D with the optional adapter.