Installing a Viper 5706V in 2009 Subaru Outback

**apologize for 2nd post. my initial subject was not very informative**

I just recently got a 2009 Subaru Outback and right off the bat purchased a Viper 5706V because I liked the Viper 5901 I had in my last car so much. I was quoted >$540 to get it installed at Best Buy because the guy said I "need two bypass modules that are about $100 each." I went to Directech.com to check and see what he might be talking about and all I believe I would need assuming I go with Directed products would be Xpresskit DLPK and a universal RF Loop. Unfortunately the DLKP seems to get terrible reviews on amazon at least, so I'm looking for either reassurance that this might be a good option for my car or someone to give me a better option. I've never installed an alarm/remote start myself but I've got quite a bit of experience with car audio and other electronics so I figured I could probably do it. Idatalink seems to be the only other option I could find for my year/make/model and their ADS-ALCA product is compatible with my car. The description on their website says I need two separate firmwares for the remote start and the remaining features of my alarm, keyless entry, etc. Do I need to purchase two of these devices for combination function? Is the Idatalink system easier/harder to install than the DLKP+RFloop combo? Thanks in advance for anyone who has some information.

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KJDBonez

One bypass (ads al ca) will learn the chipped key you have and allow the vehicle to start without leaving a key in the car.

The second will do convenience features which most importantly controls factory alarm. Since the viper is also a security system you could put the Subaru factory alarm in valet mode and then it wouldn't be absolutely necessary for the 2nd bypass. It speeds up the install and makes less connections to the vehicle.

The bypass which controls convenience features is also an ads al ca.



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Advanced

Dasbogie beat me with the answer but here is my answer with some additional info that might help...

The iDatalink solution for these cars requires two modules.  One handles the transponder bypass function and the other does the
vehicle convenience features, like locks, alarm, door status, tach, etc.  The iDatalink solution is nice because you won't loose a key.

The dig downside for you is the additional equipment needed ( ADS USB programming cable ) and dealer access to the WebLink
section of their web site.  Just getting the module flashed with the correct firmware from the seller is not enough.  With the key
cloning process ( KLON ) you need to do "extended programming" during the install that requires the ADS USB cable and site
access again.

As a DIY'er, your best bet is going with the DLPK and 556UW modules.  You will lose a key in the 556UW.  The DLPK comes
pre-loaded with the correct firmware.

Another excellent option is the EVO-ALL from Fortin.  The currently recommended firmware is Rev 79.25 but I suspect that Rev 4.06
will work.  Here is a link to the EVO-ALL install guide for your car :  https://fortin.ca/download/16031/evo-all_subaru_n20140530.pdf
As shown, a "key wrap" is used for the transponder bypass and no second module (556UW ) is required.  With the correct firmware
flash and module configuration, you could go in DBI D2D mode between the Viper and the Fortin, saving some time with the
inter-module wiring.  And with Fortin, you could buy the FlaskLink2 USB programming cable and do everything yourself.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the quick responses. I have a couple follow-up questions.

Assuming I go the DLPK route it looks like (correct me if I'm wrong) I can get a universal RF loop and remove the pre-programmed transponder pellet from one of my keys and use that setup instead of the 556UW - I wouldn't lose the physical key in the box. Since the chip would be within range of the ignition, could I still theoretically use the 2nd key in this case? https://directechs.blob.core.windows.net/documents/979_rflub_h00_s00_d00_i_en.pdf

Also there seems to be a similar workaround for the "key wrap" for transponder bypass if I went with Fortin EVO-ALL or EVO-ONE by getting a TB-SUBARU (https://fortin.ca/en/products/transponders_(tb)/tb-subaru/). It says programming, but no key, required. Unfortunately I talked to tech support at Fortin and they said it requires dealership programming in order to work, but that wouldn't be the end of the world I guess.

Assuming the universal RF loop + DLPK allows me to use my 2nd key in the case that I were to accidentally lose my only other key, that might be my only attractive option for DIY.

If I were to have this professionally installed I called around to a couple places to ask what they use. Best Buy uses two iDatalink ADS-ALCA interface modules but I still can't figure out why the install quote is $540 if they advertise their installation for RS/security install as $199.99 and in addution they charge $100 each for two ADS-ALCA's.

Another store local to me has good reviews for installation and the guy I talked to on the phone says that they use Omegalink OL-MDB-ALL (which appears to be basically a rebranded Idatalink ADS-ALCA). This guy told me that I don't actually need two of these units and it can be done with just one - and no losing a key. He is also quoting $100 for the unit but significantly shorter install time and lower installation cost. I confirmed with him that I have a Viper 5706 and he said that they could get the RS, security and convenience features working with just one of these units. After speaking with Idatalink tech support they also confirm that it could be done with just one unit as long as the shop I'm working with knows how to put factory alarm into valet mode. Does that sound reasonable? Thanks

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KJDBonez

The DLPK or iDatalink bypass module that handles the convenience features is optional.  A good 12V install shop can hardwire all
of the necessary signals from the Outbacks signals available at the BIU under the drivers dash.  Remember that your Outback has
a Factory Alarm and gets in the way of the after-market unit, hence the suggestions to put the Factory Alarm system into valet mode. 
If the Factory Alarm is sufficient, the Viper 5706 is overkill and you could use a Viper 4706 instead.

Here is a link to ReadyRemote for the wire guide :  https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp

As Fortin support mentioned, their TB module must be programmed by the dealer with their special scan tool.  Some dealerships
might not want to do this for you.  They will happily sell and program a key for you for about $150.  Placing a full working key in
the vehicle with the R/S does have security risks and makes the iDatalink solution very attractive.

Yes, the Omegalink OL-MDB-ALL  is a re-badged ADS AL-CA.  The FLCAN is the same also.

I like to have 2 working keys for normal use on my cars.  The key hidden under the dash does not count.  If you don't want to get
another working key for your car, the iDatalink solution is the way to go.  After the bypass module is programmed and working, you
still have 2 keys you can use everyday.  The local store install using his bypass module seems to be your best option.

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Soldering is fun!

I got it installed at the local shop today. It looks clean and works well. It took about as much time as Best Buy quoted, but they did it for over $200 less than Best Buy would have and didn't have to use a 2nd bypass module. Only downside was I didn't have a ride out of there at the time, so I had to hang out in the ghetto for a few hours while it was being installed :)

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KJDBonez