Door lock unlock

Attached 3 picture for ref..

im trying to connect viper 5706 to my colt..

First Pic

Stock circuit diagram for door lock

Second Pic

ive connect viper lock unlock wire to the door lock unlock signal wire from the door keyhole.. but lock unlock via viper fob wont work.

Third pic

once i cut off the lock unlock signal wire before the brain , it worked..but now this is the real problem.. if i wanna lock the door while driving , the door will only lock for the driver side...same with unlock...ive tried diode it...wont work too...

Add a 451 or a pair of relays and break into the motor wires at 22 and 23.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

thought so but just wanna confirm this wont work? if so then i have no choice to use 2 relays... i just dont understand why lock unlock manually by key works and tap into thr 2 ground wont work..

You have to interrupt the unlock wire. It is grounded at all times. The switch removes the ground to unlock.

Use 2 relays.

Cut the UNLOCK brn/blu wire in two.

#87a = one of the cut brn/blu wires

#30 = the other cut brn/blu wires. (which one doesn't matter).

#85 = Viper blue unlock wire. Put a diode in this wire, band towards the Viper. ALSO the Viper green lock wire. Put a diode in this wire, band towards Viper. ( Both Viper lock and unlock wires activate this relay, but the diodes don't back-feed the lock wire.

#86 = B+, hot at all times.

Cut the lock wire in two.

#30 = the wire that goes to the module

#87a the wire that goes to the switch

#87 = Ground

#86 = Hot at all times.

#85 = Viper green lock wire. Put a diode in this wire, band towards Viper.

This should work, if the diagram is correct for your car. Easier than interfacing with the lock wires at the module, or a lock module that you probably don't have onhand in Hong Kong. Please report back if it did or didn't work. Thanks.

Thanks Dave my old eyes should have looked harder!
Many Nissans and Mitz FTO used this system, aka one wire open circuit.


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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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Thanks Dave my old eyes should have looked harder!
Many Nissans and Mitz FTO used this system, aka one wire open circuit.

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Hi Howie. I edited my post. Look at the door switch again. It has to remove the ground for lock as well. So double-check my suggestion. I think I got it right. (I did leave off the anti-spike "Howie Diodes".  I don't want to confuse him yet).

I wish I could Facebook "LIKE" your post that's why I played safe and suggested a pair of relays on the motor wires.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

my cars wiring color , sockrt number and pin number match exactly what shown in the diagram... thx dave n howie...will give it a try next morning...

I looked at this again. It's a "Central Locking System" where the control switch is incorporated into the driver's lock actuator. We don't have these in North America, so I'm unfamiliar with them. It looks like the switch changes state depending on whether the lock actuator is locked or unlocked. So when the actuator mechanically changes state, the locks follow.

It may not be possible to do it with the signal wires. Howie's way, using the lock motor wires will work every time. Personally, I'd experiment with the signal wires and try to figure it out. But going for the motor wires, or using a module will work for sure.

Regards, Howie.

i didnt use relay with the motor wire...i kept my current setting...i prefer less 2 relays than to add 2 more relays.. i already have 3 relays under my dash.. 1 for GWR to bypass the clutch switch , 1 for GWR to cut of GWA when doing remote start and 1 for GWA to work with starter kill ( yea my built in starter kill went bad) ... so adding 2 more relays making the underdash looks so messy..