Compustar 7000as/Blade-AL. No start problem

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=139551
Printed Date: April 20, 2024 at 1:13 AM

Topic: Compustar 7000as/Blade-AL. No start problem

Posted By: darcspawn
Subject: Compustar 7000as/Blade-AL. No start problem
Date Posted: October 10, 2015 at 9:39 PM

Just Installed the Compustar 7000 with the blade AS.

Blade has been flashed and appears to be working correctly. Doors unlock/lock trunk pops, detected foot on brake pedal to do the Tach Learn.

I am able to set remote start reservation just fine. Engine remains running until i close the door then locks and shuts down.

When i go to remote start doors lock, dash lights up and nothing....

I would imagine i have forgotten a wire somewhere. Do i need to wire something to the ignition switch? I thought everything went through the BCM and CAN bus.

Followed wiring from idatalink for the blade AL to do the install but never found a step by step on the 7000AS.

Thanks for any thoughts!

Forgot to mention this is a 2011 Chevy Cruze Manual Transmission.

Replies:

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: October 11, 2015 at 4:36 PM

Just for grins, set reservation mode but stay in the car. Depress the clutch pedal and then try a remote start.

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Soldering is fun!

Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 11, 2015 at 5:21 PM

600r resistor on the clutch line? did a Vauxhall Astra* with a DB-ALL 2 last year, did some changes and noticed DEI changed their instructions this year to include the above.
*Same vehicle under the skin.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Posted By: darcspawn
Date Posted: October 11, 2015 at 5:32 PM

Yup worked fine with clutch depressed.

Had a 150ohm resistor in there and it wasn't working changed it out for a 220ohm (All i had on hand) works like a charm now.

Thanks guys! now i just need to play wit the settings. Not sure which one yet but it like to unlock before it locks both when i set the reservation mode as well as when i remote start.
hit remote start button > door unlock > door lock > ignition power up > crank > Unlock > Lock again....

Strange but i think i can figure it out unless you guys know which one is acting screwy.

All locks and unlocks are through the can bus so i'm sure its a setting and not a mis-wire

Again thanks for the help guys!!

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: October 11, 2015 at 6:12 PM

Thought the clutch bypass was a strong possibility. posted_image

Do you have an ADS USB cable and access? You can check the Compustar and Blade AL settings to see if they have been changed from factory defaults. Had an ADS AL-CA give me a headache because of a setting that somehow got changed off default that shouldn't have after a full flash and reset...

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Soldering is fun!

Posted By: darcspawn
Date Posted: October 11, 2015 at 8:48 PM

Yeah i've got the USB cable. I'll just set everything back to default .

I was messing around in there trying to figure out the no start. I'll report back after the reset posted_image

Posted By: darcspawn
Date Posted: October 12, 2015 at 9:04 PM

Slight progress....

locks are better but now i am running into the RAP not shutting off. I waited 35 minutes to see if the radio would turn off but it never did.

The BLADE-AL(DL)-GM7-EN says it has RAP shutdown for the cruze. Googling tells me i need to trip the door trigger to kill RAP.

Won't the screw up my reservation?

I will probably end up giving idatalink a call at some point, just wondering if any of you guys have ran into this problem yet?

thank for all the help thus far guys!

Posted By: darcspawn
Date Posted: October 13, 2015 at 2:39 PM

Ok so i talked to a guy at Idatalink (great customer service by the way) He informed me that it should be a pain in the rump posted_image

I am on board with his suggestion of having hard wire the door trigger and diode isolate a signal to kill the retained accessory power at the drivers door.

I can't seem to figure out which signal i should use to kill the RAP.
I think i can completely disable the factory alarm system and use the "Factory alarm arm" wire cn5 pin 11 (Orange wire) to kill retained accessory power? so long as it is diode isolated from the door trigger wire...

Sound right?

any ideas?

again this is a Compustar CM7000

Posted By: darcspawn
Date Posted: October 19, 2015 at 8:18 AM

OK so the diode isolation seems to work, except for one problem. I don't think the Factory Alarm Arm (POC#6) is the wire i want. But that wire is configurable, does anyone know off hand what i should set that output to?

As it stands now that wire goes active and stays active until disarm which the factory alarm obviously doesn't care for.

I'm like 99% there just need to figure out which output to use posted_image

Thanks for any help guys!