Viper 4806v remote start won’t crank

I'm installing a Viper 4806v in a 2006 Toyota Yaris. I can't get any power to come out of the violet starter output. I have voltage at all of my inputs, fuses are good, etc. Everything else works as it should. Door lock, unlock, pushing remote start button starts entire sequence of turning ignition on, but never powers that violet wire. I can manual start it, hit remote start button and it will keep running, but will never restart. When I run the diagnostics I get 3 flashes(Low or no rpm). I've tried with both virtual tach(which never starts) and running it to the obdii port. It learns off the port fine, I get a solid led and a park light flash.

When it attempts to start, I first hear several relays click in the box, then after a couple seconds I hear a faint click which I assume is the starter relay going to that violet wire, it just never gets power.

One thing I did figure out I did was hook up the clutch bypass wrong and the remote start -200mA starter output wire had 12v going to it. My best guess at this point is that it fried something in the remote starter brain. Nothing I do seems to make it work any differently.

Anyone want to confirm I was just stupid and fried it? I'm planning on ordering another one and chalking it up to stupidity and a learning experience. Feel free to criticize, I can take it. I had reservations hooking up the clutch bypass the way I did, which is why I'm thinking that caused the problem.

can you program the flex relay for start output and use the pink/white wire to power the starter? Then if you needed more ignition or accessory outs you could use the negative outputs to trigger relays.

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Thanks for the reply. I'll try that. I opened the box up and started checking the board. I found the starter relay inside is still good, just doesn't get a signal to activate. I can jump it to activate it and the car starts with the remote when it goes thru the start sequence.

usually the violet 250 ma negative starter output shares the same continuity with the internal relay negative trigger side. I would be looking for a burnt trace or component that failed from where that wire connects to the brainbox till it reaches the internal relay. usually in remote starters that share that output they call for the installer to diode that neg. start output because if you just took that straight to ground it would crank the starter.

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To update, I found a bad diode on the circuit board. I replaced it with an identical one that went to the 500mA ground when armed output. Hooked everything back up again, and it all works almost as it should. Starts, shuts off, door lock, unlock, etc. The one issue I have is with the door triggers. I hooked them up at the 30 pin plug(I only had 3 of the 4 there), diode isolated them, and hooked them to the (-) Green Door Input wire. Whenever I lock the doors, I always get the yellow light and negative tone on the remote, and the blue led flashes 3 pulses for a bit, then goes to a slow blink. It also gives me the 7 flash manual start sequence error. Probing the green remote start wire shows me 11.5v with doors closed, and .64v with one open. Any ideas?

Go to the dome light for door trigger NEG when doors open.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I found my problem. Stupid me. I thought the purple (+)Door Input had to be hooked up to something also since the install guide said it was a required connection. Unhooked the purple and put the green back on the diode isolated door triggers and it all works perfectly. Finally! I was sure I was going to have to buy a new brain there for awhile. Thanks to everyone in this forum for all the great info that is provided here. This was my second remote start install.