progressive locks, 2001 Ford Ranger, Avital 2101

Hi there,

First time post but been lurking for a while...lol

I have a 2001 Ford Ranger that does not have power windows or locks. Does not have the wiring already there nor the oem parts to just plug stuff in and go.

I believe what I want to do is pretty basic compared to other things but I am a little confused on a part.

I have your basic two wire pull/push door actuators. I also just got a Avital 2101L. According to the really sparse directions it can do a progressive door unlock/lock.

Since it's a truck and I am the only one really driving it I would really like to only unlock/lock the drivers door and then if need be if I do have a passenger press the button again to do so. But by default I do not want both doors to unlock/lock at the same time.

I have all wires/connectors/relays so it shouldn't be an issue getting this going. I know how to solder and run wires to and from. But what I am really confused about is the wiring schematics of what they listed and why there are so many unlock/lock wires on the avital when my actuator only has two.

On the avital unit itself it says that the 200mA output can be used to open the other door actuator but I am guessing that I would need to use a relay since 200mA is not going to activate the actuator but it would be enough for a relay, yes?

I know which power wires to tap via 12v constant/switched... and the basic ground. I just don't know for 100% sure which wires are needed to do the progressive unlock/lock feature.

IE: I have 2 (two wire actuators), one Avital 2101L. ZERO switches in the cabin and plan on having ZERO switches in the cabin. I will strictly use the keyfob to lock/unlock. But would prefer to have the progressive unlock/lock feature by default.

I've searched and searched and this isn't a real big thing with Rangers unfortunately.

If you need pictures of anything please let me know.

Thanks in advance!

-Nigel

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~NSG~

Please read carefully. I just typed this entire post, and it went up in vapor when I submitted it. This is attempt #2. It takes time to do these posts.

Install and wire your actuators. Put one wire to ground, the other to B+. If the actuator LOCKS, the wire you put on B+ is the "actuator LOCK wire". Reverse the polarity, and the actuator should now UNLOCK. This B+ is the "actuator UNLOCK wire".

H1/9 violet UNLOCK 87 = B+ Hot at all times (fused)

H1/7 violet/blk LOCK 87 = B+ Hot at all times (fused)

Hq1/17 BROWN / blk UNLOCK 87a  = GROUND

H1/6 wht/blk LOCK 87a = GROUND

H1/8 blue/blk UNLOCK 30 = DRIVER actuator UNLOCK wire

H1/5 grn/blk LOCK 30 = BOTH actuators LOCK wire(s)

Now you need a relay for the PASSENGER UNLOCK (2nd unlock)

30 = PASSENGER actuator UNLOCK wire

87a = GROUND

87 and 86 = B+ Hot at all times (fused)

85 = 2101 H1/2 blue 2nd unlock wire.

There you go. The actuator wires (30's) are grounded at all times through the 87a contacts in the 3 relays. When a relay is actuated, it's 30 is connected to B+ on 87, and that actuator moves in that direction. Sketch it out, and it should make sense. Good luck. Please post back when you have it working.

Davep,

Thank you!!! I will be trying this when I get home on Friday!

Just for clarity,   I would need 3 seperate relays, and not use the built in relays on the Avital 2101? I ask because from the directions you listed above it looked like I needed two separate relays, one for the driver side and one for the passenger side but then you listed 3 relays at the end? (sorry if this is a silly question, I'm trying to fully grasp this, I'm pretty good with things like this but I think I am making it harder than it should be :-/)

OR, the first part that you have:

H1/9 violet UNLOCK 87 = B+ Hot at all times (fused)
H1/7 violet/blk LOCK 87 = B+ Hot at all times (fused)
Hq1/17 BROWN / blk UNLOCK 87a = GROUND
H1/6 wht/blk LOCK 87a = GROUND
H1/8 blue/blk UNLOCK 30 = DRIVER actuator UNLOCK wire
H1/5 grn/blk LOCK 30 = BOTH actuators LOCK wire(s)

The above is using the internal relay on the unit? (But you have the numbers listed as if it were a stand alone relay, to help me understand the function of how the unit works) Hope that makes sense.

The passenger relay I fully understand. Run the h1/2 blue 200 mA wire into relay 85, which triggers the relay to the lock/unlock via the pulse that it receives from the avital 2101.

I really do appreciate your time in helping me! Your post just cleared up about 90% of the confusion that was in my head! And I think you will clear up the rest!

Thanks much,
-Nigel


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~NSG~

Actually I re-read what I wrote and sorry for the idiot question on the relay of the Avital 2101. It did not click until I read your post 3 times and you have the wire colors which CLEARLY indicate the relay numbers IE: BUILT in relay..lol

So then to edit my question above I would not need 3 separate relays. First relay which is built in via

H1/9 violet UNLOCK 87 = B+ Hot at all times (fused)
H1/7 violet/blk LOCK 87 = B+ Hot at all times (fused)
Hq1/17 BROWN / blk UNLOCK 87a = GROUND
H1/6 wht/blk LOCK 87a = GROUND
H1/8 blue/blk UNLOCK 30 = DRIVER actuator UNLOCK wire
H1/5 grn/blk LOCK 30 = BOTH actuators LOCK wire(s)

THEN I would need just s single separate relay (2nd relay if counting the avital 2101 internal) for the passenger side lock that utilizes the H1/2 Blue 200mA second unlock output.

Do I have this correct now? Sorry for not being able to edit the original post, I hate to clog things up without editing or being able to modify a post so that it doesn't confuse possibly future people with information...etc.

Thanks so far, I think it's clicking more... ;-)

-Nigel

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~NSG~

Yes, you've got it. Use the internal relays in the 2101. There are two internal 2101 relays: Lock, and Unlock. You have 3 wires coming in from the actuators. Driver unlock, Passenger unlock, and Both Lock. Each wire goes to a relay #30. So there are 3 relays. 2 in the 2101, and the external 2nd unlock. I put the numbers in the description mostly for proof reading my own post to be sure the circuit works. Sorry if I confused you.

What you have is a "reversing polarity" lock system. Experienced installers and DIY'rs  work with these systems all the time. No mystery at all. That's why I suggested sketching it out, and study it to familiarize yourself with the circuit. You may find this diagram helpful. It is in the Relay section of this site.

https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram48.html

EDIT/ADD: I just had another thought. If you haven't installed your actuators in the truck yet, why don't you test-assemble the whole thing on your bench or kitchen table? Just twist wires together, and make it work. PUT A FUSE IN YOUR MAIN POWER WIRE. If you make a mistake, you blow the fuse instead of frying your 2101. I've used a piece of solder for a fuse. It works just as well, but doesn't cost anything. When you have it working on the bench, make notes of the connections, then proceed to install it in the vehicle.

Awesome! Much appreciated. I will be testing this out in my basement when I am done with work this evening. I definitely plan on testing it before I hardwire anything. Good point about the solder for a fuse! Never thought to do that, and I will use that if I can't find a spare fuse (though I should have one handy).

You know what is funny is I looked at that diagram before and didn't think it applied because I wanted a progressive lock/unlock feature. Actually I think I looked at all the diagrams for them and was still scratching my head.

I'm excited to get this to work. I really wish I would have done this years ago with how cheap the wireless locks are... I didn't realize for $35 you can get a 2101, lol.

I will definitely post an update probably afternoon tomorrow and let you know how the testing goes!

Much appreciated for the help! I wish there was way to give karma points/thanks on here for you!

If the wiring is all set for the test I think my biggest problem is going to be mounting the actuators...lol I wish I hadn't dynomatted my doors because that will make it a little more difficult to get to things and or "peel" away temporarily.

-Nigel

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~NSG~

Just got done bench testing and I can successfully unlock the driver side actuator, then push again for the passenger side.

However when I push the lock button, nothing happens with either remote.

If I however hold the lock button down it does activate the panic mode just like the directions state... so I am now a little confused on why the lock doesn't lock anything?

Thanks for the help so far!

-Nigel

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~NSG~

OK well i decided to do one more thing.

I am currently testing with a 12v UPS battery so it's small not huge but perfect for little stuff like this.

I had the yellow 12v switched wire also connected with the 12v constant and violet/black for the above test. When I disconnect the yellow wire from that, everything works perfectly.

Is it because that wire should tell the unit if there is a "key" in the ignition and on the ON mode to prevent someone from locking it outside? That's my only thing. Everything is now functional if I don't use the yellow 12v switched wire in the current testing scope. lol

I feel this will work once I hook the 12v switched line to the ACTUAL 12v switch source in my truck, but please correct me if I am wrong.

Thanks again,
-Nigel

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~NSG~

Yes, the yellow wire is the IGN input to the 2101. It will use this wire to auto-lock, and auto-unlock the doors if programed to do so. It also uses this input for domelight supervision, if connected and programed to do so.

It sounds like the 2101 also disables (ignores) inputs from the fob with the IGN (yellow wire) on. Some OEM Remote Keyless Entry systems also do this. I was not aware that the 2101 does this too. But it seems like it does.  This is why we test. To figure out what systems do and how they behave, so there's no surprises after it's installed, and less convenient to figure it out.

For a novice, you're doing great. I like assisting people like yourself. You're doing as much research on your own, then asking specific questions, then going into the basement and making it work. You're self-educating yourself. My role as "teacher" is to guide you, but not tell you how to do it.

This is a great thread. I'm enjoying it.

Welp I'm FINALLY done :-)

Was a busy weekend that started on Friday. I was doing my rear end via lift blocks and new shocks, this keyless entry, and adding an LED to my headlight knob just because I had everything apart.

So Dave I gotta thank you!! Your diagram worked perfectly! This was the first time I ever installed keyless entry into a vehicle that didn't already have it from the factory.

Install took me 3 days which I guess is too long definitely not something I would make money on but at the same time I take my time and do things right. I've installed stereo's before that's no problem and this really wasn't bad minus the initial figuring out the relays. The ONLY real issues I came across was trying to mount the actuators in the doors. I ended up having to use spacers to space them out from the inside of the door as there was either metal or cables in the way, luckily I had spacers and extra screws because the ones supplied aren't long enough. I used all 3 mounting points. I've seen some simply install it using that metal bar and two points but figured I didn't want anything to move considering the amount of effort in do this, might as well do it right. And fishing the wires through the door seals was a little bit of a pain.

I sleeved almost the entire wiring harness. I guess that's the geek in my when I do computers and take a lot of care/pride in doing wire management. I'm like that in our server room as well, it's nice to see things extremely neat and not wires everywhere.

I almost did not use the led and the valet switch and figured why? But, I wasn't aware that the led flashes when it's locked so I ended up using both. Mounted the valet switch down by the driver side center console, and would have liked to put the LED in the center of the defrost vent but typical Ford makes it impossible to remove that without something snapping so I ended up mounting it on the passenger side defrost and had a good angle to mount it once the airbag was removed. It's funny, because of the windshield I could not just drill a hole. So I took different size allen wrenches that I had and torched them and melted a round hole into the plastic in step... Worked really well and very clean actually.

Other than that it was just tapping wires via the ignition relay and motors. I soldered and heatshrunk every connection so nothing is ever going to come loose. I mounted the control unit behind the console to the left of the passenger airbag. Almost where the OEM control unit is. If you weren't looking you'd never know it was there.

Some after thoughts. Why didn't I do this sooner?...lol The guys on the Ranger forum said it's a MAJOR PITA, and I'm sure to an extent it is but there are far worse things I've done to my truck via seized suspension parts or what not and I would gladly do this than that! Looking back I should have done this when I installed sound deadening material in my cabin. I already had the doors/entire cabin bare and I found out the hard way that peeling off the RAAMAT and trying to get to things that I had completely covered was not cool... That's probably why it also took longer because everything was covered and made it harder to do the factory wire path. It's ok though, I got it :-)

So now by default I push once, and driver side unlocks and flashes lights. Push again and passenger side unlocks. Push lock and both lock and lights flash. I really thought perhaps I should attach the horn but honestly it would be annoying all the time to have it honk for lock/unlock. The lights is more than enough for me.

I did turn off the unlock feature when you shut the car off. Only because if you use the door handle it will automatically unlock the door so there is no need for the system to unlock the entire truck. I kept the lock on when the ignition is turned on for now. I guess that isn't bad.

Overall though I'm extremely happy I did this!! Thank you for all your help!

I would post pictures but honestly you'd only see the LED I put on the passenger side and the valet switch down by the driver, other than that there is nothing to see, it's all hidden ;-p

-Nigel

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~NSG~

Congratulations! Yeaaah.

Don't worry about how long it takes when you're doing your own project. Because you're doing it for the satisfaction of doing it, the challenge of trying something new, and the convenience of having the function after you're done. You'll grin every time you pop the locks, because YOU did it yourself.

Be wary of the auto-lock feature. You WILL eventually lock the keys in your truck, probably with the engine running. And the fob will be inside too. Get a hide-a-key for the doors. You will eventually need it. Or for a future project install a hidden unlock button somewhere on the outside of the truck. I need to do one of these for a friend's Porsche Cayenne because he's locked his fob in the car twice and had to take Uber back to the house for his other fob/key. The Cayenne has a sophisticated fob and key that is too bulky and sensitive to elements (not to mention expensive) to hide on the chassis. So he wants a button so he can get inside to retrieve his fob/key when he does it again. I'll attempt it, because I like the challenge.

Thanks for the synopsis regarding your installation. Glad I could help.

You are 100% right, I smile every time I unlock/lock the truck! Corny but oh well...lol

I have two minor questions as they were not addressed in the manual. With the unit's antenna wire how should that have been oriented? I put it so it was laying horizontal along the front defroster vent as straight as I could make it like this: --------------------------

Should that have been vertical or is it fine the way it is?

Last question is what IF, I wanted to later add remote start to the unit. Is that possible or do I have to order a whole new main unit or is this something that I can add to the existing unit? I ask because my remote has the little asterisk button which my wife has on her remote fob as the keyless start. I have unlock, lock, asterisk, and truck release.

If not possible that's ok honestly. I'm more than please being able to get into the truck now without fumbling with the key!

I think I am going to probably turn off the auto lock feature. My luck I will not be thinking clearly shut the door then hear the "click" and just frown knowing what just happened.

Thanks,
-Nigel

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~NSG~

Wish I could edit previous post however. I am decided that I wanted the truck to alert me on the lock/unlock.

I just purchased this:

https://www./itm/231711853273?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


It's a 75dB small buzzer. Video of what it sounds like here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URCocPE2Mpg

My question is on the Avital has the wire to connect to a horn and usinga relay. Since that buzzer only uses 10mA... and the avital pushes out 200mA. Can I simply attach the wires to the + lead of the buzzer and then ground the buzzer to the chasis? Or would I need a relay for the buzzer? My brain is telling me that a relay would not be needed since it's a fraction of the draw on the unit being 10mA. But wanted to make sure.

I think the horn honk would be too much of an annoyance but this little buzzer from the youtube video sounds like my Subaru and my wife's Toyota when they lock/unlock so I'm cool with that. :-)

-Nigel

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~NSG~

You can hook the buzzer up directly to the 2101. Horn brn to (-) on the buzzer, and (+) on the buzzer to hot at all times.

If you have adequate fob range, don't worry about antenna orientation.

You can use either the AUX (trunk pop) output, or the Aux3 output to activate a stand-alone remote start. Provided your Ranger has an automatic transmission. If it's a manual trans, there is more to the R/S install to ensure safety with a manual trans, and these R/S systems may not interface with the simple activate input. I don't have any experience with manual trans R/S installs.

I'm glad you're enjoying your system. Cool.

Welp I have one more question.

I hooked up the buzzer and can get it to beep only when I push the trunk button then lock/unlock.

The owners manual said see owners manual for details but the only thing I see is to temp hear the beep via the one time feature that I mentioned above.... is there a way to always have it beep/honk when I unlock and lock?

i didn't see this feature in the program menu via the manual on the valet section.

Thanks
-Nigel

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~NSG~

Actually I have one more follow up question.

I ended up hooking the brown wire H1/12 to my horn wire. My system is default ground wire just like the avital system. But do I still need to use a relay?

The manual states that if my system is +switched horn then I should but doesn't specifically state if I should if my vehicle is default - type horn, which it is.

I don't want to burn anything up...lol

Thanks again,
-Nigel

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~NSG~

I looked at the options menu. It doesn't look like it has horn honk on lock and un lock. The 2101 is not an "alarm" so maybe this has something to do with no horn-honk. I did see the "one time horn honk" feature by pushing aux then lock/unlock. But that's not what you want.

I'm pretty sure the park lights flash with lock/unlock. If = yes, then you can hook the buzzer to the light-flash output. You will have to change some things around in the way you wired the light-flash, or the buzzer will be on anytime the tail lights are on. Not what you want.

I assume you're using the (+) light-flash polarity on the 2101, and the white light-flash wire (one with the fuse in it) is connected directly to the Ranger park lights.

If you want to try the buzzer with the light flash, let me know and I'll tell you how to modify the light-flash to do it. You'll need 2 diodes and another relay.

Ah darn that's what I thought...lol

Well the horn does beep if I push the aux/lock aux/unlock. Or if I hold the panic button down it sets of the horn.

I'd like to have the horn beep now with the unlock/lock but honestly that's ok, I don't want to rip into it again. I appreciate the help.

Just to confirm though I do not need to use a relay for the horn function since the avital 2101l puts out a - signal and my horn is always a negative system. I don't want to burn anything up but from the directions that would only seem to happen if I use the outputs that put out a + signal via 200mA?

IE: When I press my horn button it grounds itself and goes off. No relay when using the avital 2101 since it sends a 200mA - signal is ok and doesn't need a relay to make that do the same thing? I feel like the horn would use more than 200mA, no?

Thanks again,
-Nigel

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~NSG~

The Ranger has a horn relay, and it is (-) trigger. If you tapped the blue wire at the base of the steering column, you're OK.

The "200ma (2 tenths of an amp)" spec is the maximum current that a typical (-) output in the Avital can sink to ground without damaging the solid state components. You can use an online ohms law calculator to find the current draw if you know (measure) the relay's coil resistance. The cube relays that are widely used in automotive applications have appx an 85 ohm coil, and draw .140 ma.

I thought you were going with a buzzer. Not the vehicle's horn. Personally, I hate horn-honk for arm/disarm and again, personally, feel it's discourteous. I live in a quiet neighborhood, and the cacophony of horn honks goes on all day long. Annoying as hell. Why does the entire neighborhood have to be alerted that some jack-azz is getting into his car? My cars don't honk. I watch the light-flashes, or listen for the "clunk" of the locks.

Glad you have it working.

I know this is a really old thread, but I had to come on here and say THANK YOU! I found Nigel's review on Amazon with the wiring info while searching for more info on how to wire up the progressive unlock feature (after searching for days!) which led me here. I got mine working thanks to you guys.

haha awesome! Glad I was able to somewhat direct you here... Amazon can be finicky when it comes to reviews and sending people other places to look.

Glad you got it working!!

Mine is still going strong on the truck! Couldn't be happier.

Not sure why progressive feature isn't mentioned more in a manual or different places, it's a really nice feature especially if there is normally only one person driving the vehicle.

-Nigel

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~NSG~

Ha, yeah. The progressive feature is really nice- I ended up moving the passenger unlock to channel 3 and putting it on the aux button so I can control them separately. They play nicer with the manual lock/unlock button I installed that way (wired through the NC connections, upstream of the 2101). Only remaining problem is how to either disable that second unlock output, or have it also unlock the driver door so I'm not pushing the button twice every time.