2010 Titan LE Viper 4806V Window Up/Down Prob

Ok, I've installed a Viper 4806V into my 2010 Nissan Titan LE with an idatalink AD-ALCA and ran the lock and unlock wires into the driver's door. I connected Aux 3 output wire to Unlock wire (not diode isolated if that matters) and linked Aux 3 to Unlock with validity as the setting. I did the same with Aux 4 for Lock and linked Aux 4 to Lock with validity. What I can't figure out is if I use the function key to get to Aux 3 or 4 and hold the Aux button, the windows will go down/up. However, my expectation was that if I press and hold Unlock or Lock, the same thing would occur since I've linked the Aux 3/4 to those buttons. Why doesn't this work? I disconnected the idatalink to ensure it wasn't contributing and saw no change. I unplugged the unlock/lock connector from the Viper so that only the Aux 4 wire was connected to the Lock wire in the door and that still simply locks the door when I press and hold the Lock button. This implies to me that the Aux 4 is linked correctly, but for some reason it's not staying valid when I hold the lock button down. Am I simply misunderstanding how this should work?

I acknowledge that I could prob just use Aux for window up and Aux 1 for Window down and that would likely work, but I'd like to understand why the unlock and lock buttons wouldn't work correctly to do the same thing if the Aux 3/4 is linked to each.

2: To make auto-headlights turn off after remote start shutdown, would I diode isolate and connect Ground when armed to the drivers door trigger on the BCM? If not, how should I address this?

3: Why doesn't Viper use a ground when running output instead of a status output that is only active when remote start is active? Reason I ask is because it would be nice to have the anti-grind feature ALWAYS work whenever the car is running, regardless of whether the remote start is active. I installed anti-grind relays on both starter wires and drove them from the status output because I don't really want the starter kill feature that ground when armed provides...don't need the risk of not being able to start the truck without hitting unlock on the Viper fob.

4: Anyone know if the memory seat 1 setting has a (-) wire at the BCM or at least under the dash that I could tap into to ensure it's selected when I unlock the truck? I saw somewhere that I could tap into a wire at the module in the door but I really don't want to run another wire into the door at this point...what a pain that was.

Another finding related to my first question is that if I set the Aux linking to timed and press unlock or lock, the windows will go all the way up/down every time. So it appears that validity simply doesn't work "correctly" when linked to unlock and lock.

1. So I did some testing with a multi-meter and confirmed that unlock and lock will only pulse regardless of whether the Aux's are linked to them or not, so Validity simply won't work with unlock/lock. I decided to connect windows up to Aux and windows down to Aux 1 and now it works great. A side benefit is that I was able to turn panic mode back on so it works when I hold lock.

2. I also tested and confirmed that connecting the Factory Arm wire (GREEN / WHITE on 24 pin connector) to the driver's door trigger (pin 47 light blue at BCM) will turn off auto headlights when remote start is shutdown without getting into the vehicle. I plan to diode isolate this wire.

3. I'm still wondering why Viper doesn't use ground when running.

4. Still need to "find" the memory module because it appears I might be able to tap into Memory Seat 1 lt. GREEN/ black   -   memory mod. left of column, pin 9. I plan to connect this to Aux 4 and link it to Unlock.

Wow, 171 views and no replies? Did I say something wrong?

Status update:
1. Still disappointed that Unlock/Lock don't work with Aux validity but I have accepted my work-around.

2. Resolved as previously stated.

3. If anyone just thinks I'm crazy and status output is GWR, I'd entertain a debate. I believe the fact that when I turn the key on and hit the brake to perform a normal takeover and then turn the key to start and it grinds, proves that status output is really only ground when the remote start is active, which is not really the same as ground when vehicle is running. I had a crimestopper remote start years back that really was a "ground when vehicle running" because even after normal takeover, it still wouldn't grind. Oh well, it is what it is.

4. Any suggestions on where the memory seat module resides? If not, I'll do some more google searches until I find it.

5. New question: Although not necessarily ideal, I used the flex relay for ACC2 and an external relay for Starter2, wired as shown below. My question is, would it make any difference at all if I connected 86 to Starter1 output instead of constant 12V so that the coil isn't always sitting at 12V? Anyone have an opinion on this?

Extra SPDT Relay for Starter2:
Relay Pin 85 to Viper Violet (-) 200mA Starter Output
Relay Pins 86 and 87 to +12V constant thru 20 Amp fuse
Relay Pin 30 to vehicle Starter2 on starter side of cut wire

Ok, install is complete so I thought I'd follow-up on my remaining items in hope of helping out the next guy that has these questions.

4. Found the memory module as it was right in front of me. It's the white module attached to the vertical frame support just below and left of the steering column. Memory Seat 1 (-) is pin 9 lt GREEN/ black on the lower right side connector. I connected Aux 4 validity and linked to unlock and viola, pressing unlock also selects memory seat 1 with my Viper remote.

5. Based on my research, I don't think it makes a bit of difference which way you wire it as I think there are many ways you could do it.

I also want to send a shout out to everyone that helped. I couldn't have done it without you guys... ....wait, is this thing on??? Bueller...