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Autopage 750 on 95 tercel

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=13985
Printed Date: July 06, 2025 at 10:49 AM


Topic: Autopage 750 on 95 tercel

Posted By: bessire1
Subject: Autopage 750 on 95 tercel
Date Posted: May 25, 2003 at 9:17 PM

I installed all the features on the alarm except for the hood pin instant shutdown. Everything works great except the remote start.

No chilton's or haynes manual, so I used the diagram from the install bay. Noticed discrepency with what the wiring diagram says and what the alarm company says accesory wire should be based off a using a volt meter (Install bay correct because my air stays on when vehicle is starting!)

Install Bay Diagram:
Green-WHITE/ Constant power
Black      /starter
Black-WHITE/ ignition on harness
blue-red   /acc
tach       /black wire on check conector
I have:
Green-white /Constant power
Black-red   /Constant power
Black       /Starter (kill switch works and tried w/o it)
Black-white /I do not have this wire
Black-ORANGE / power in on,start(they say is ignition)
Black-yellow/power in acc,run (they say is accesory)
Blue-red    /power in on,start(they say could b ign2)
Black-blue /diag port in engine compartment, but have to rev engine slightly to get it to the 1volt the alarm wants

If I conect everything the way it is suggested in the install bay, it doesn't match what the alarm says it should be, if I conect everything that the alarm says it should be, it still doesn't work. Any suggestions.

I read the install book back and forth and only noted the ground wire on H6 that can a be a toggle switch or constant grounded if no toggle switch(currently it is grounded). Wondering if because my car isn't wired on the acc switch like they want, could this be a problem?

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Always looking for new ideas.



Replies:

Posted By: cool_greg
Date Posted: May 26, 2003 at 8:07 AM
you've got to be a bit more descriptive, will it not even crank the starter? will it crank the starter but not stay running?

some common probs i've had is not grounding the neutral saftey switch wire (white with black stripe) as this stops the remote start from working, you stay that you haven't connected the hood pin switch, that's fine for now, but don't forget to hook it up before you completly finsh the job

Greg




Posted By: bessire1
Date Posted: May 26, 2003 at 8:18 AM
The system will not even crank over. You can hear the relays in the crontrol box click, but nothing. If you are using the LCD remote it will beep back indicating that the remote start function is not hooked up. But if you have the ignition in the ACC position, or the ON position, you can here a stronger click comming from the crontrol box. The LCD will also think the car is started, showing the flashing exhust symbol, but the starter still never kicks in.




Posted By: cool_greg
Date Posted: May 26, 2003 at 9:02 AM
when you try the remote start does the dash warning lights come on like you are using the key, the radio come on? if not it sounds like you arn't getting any power to the relays in the remote starter, check the fuses there and the connections, also double check the outputs from the remote start to see if it's delivering power to the right wires


Greg




Posted By: bessire1
Date Posted: May 26, 2003 at 10:44 AM
I checked the connections inside the alarm and they are labeled on the circut board the way it says they should be. So I used a volt meter on the connections comming out of the unit.

If I just have the two red (constant 12 Volt) wires connected I do not see any power being transferred to the other wires yellow(ign1), pink(ign2), brown(acc), or violet(starter), but I can hear the relays try to kick over.

It seems that if the Ignition 1 wire gets voltage applied to it, by putting the ignition in the acc position, the brown(acc) and Pink(ign2) wires off of the unit get voltage. I also get a stronger click comming off of the unit, as if more relays are kicking in. At no time do I see votage comming out to the Violet(starter) wire. But this could just be that the unit feeds the other wires when the circut is opened by the relays inside.

The two red wires (12v constant) on the unit both have good fuses and show continuity.




Posted By: cool_greg
Date Posted: May 26, 2003 at 11:17 AM
it looks like you may have a bad unit, if power is going in, but not coming out when it's meant to.

Greg




Posted By: bessire1
Date Posted: May 26, 2003 at 12:54 PM
I tracked down the louder clicking sound to the solenoid in the transmision shift housing. The solenoid is supossed to kick when you apply the brakes. I disconected the brake shut off switch for now, and the system works.

It seems that I either got the wrong wire on that or the brake function does not work the way the alarm wants.

Thanks for keeping me thinking, I was ready to take the unit out and drive over it.

I used the following wires:
Green white - power to the two red wires
black small - starter
blue red    - acc
black yellow- ign1
black red   - ign2




Posted By: Scott35
Date Posted: May 26, 2003 at 1:43 PM
Dei says ign1 RED / blue,ign2 BLACK/ white.starter black,12volt WHITE/ red&BLACK/ red,acc BLACK / YELLOW.

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Tacomacrew





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