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First time installing remote start. 93 accordPrinted From: the12volt.comForum Name: Car Security and Convenience Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc. URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=139859 Printed Date: June 16, 2024 at 1:01 PM Topic: First time installing remote start. 93 accord Posted By: miscellaneous Subject: First time installing remote start. 93 accord Date Posted: December 06, 2015 at 4:18 PM I'm trying to hook up an alarm/remote start system to my cb7. I've got everything down working right except the remote start and I need some assistance. Heres how I have everything wired up... Manual transmission
Main Harness (H1) H1/1 Red - (+)12vDC constant input (white ignition wire) h1/2 black - (-) chassis ground (grounded) h1/3 brown - (+) siren output (red siren wire) h1/4 WHITE/ brown - parking light isolation wire (not used) h1/5 white - parking light output (connect and works) H2 Harness, 24-pin h2/1 pink/white - (-) 200ma igntion/flex relay control output (do i need this connected? where?) h2/2 BLACK/ white - (-) neutral safety input (grounded) h2/3 blue/white - (-) 200ma 2nd status/rear defogger output h2/4 GREEN/ black - (-) oem alarm disarm output h2/5 RED / white - (-) 200ma trunk release output h2/6 green - (-) door trigger input (connected and works) h2/7 BLACK / YELLOW - (-) 200ma dome light supervision output h2/8 bronw/black - (-) 200ma horn honk output h2/9 dark blue - (-) 200ma status output (do i need this connected? where?) h2/10 pink - (-) 200ma ignition 1 output (do i need this connected? where?) h2/11 WHITE/ black - (-) 200ma aux 3 output h2/12 violet - (+) door trigger input h2/13 WHITE/ violet - (-) 200ma aux 1 output h2/14 violet/black - (-) 200 ma aux 2 output h2/15 ORANGE / black - (-) 200ma aux 4 outut h2/16 brown - (+) brake shutdown input (connected at light green wire at brake switch) h2/17 grey - (-) hood pin input h2/18 violet / YELLOW - (-) 200ma starter output (do i need this connected and where?) h2/19 blue - (-) trunk pink/instant trigger input h2/20 grey/black - (-) diesel wait to start output h2/21 WHITE/ blue - (-) remote start/turbo timer activation input h2/22 orange - (-) 200ma accessory output (do i need this connected and where?) h2/23 violet/white - tachometer input (read that this wire is not necessary?) h2/24 GREEN / WHITE - (-) 200ma oem alarm arm output Remote Start H3 h3/1 pink - (+) ignition 1 input/output (BLACK / YELLOW ignition is this correct) h3/2 RED / white - (87) flex relay +12v input (white igntion is this correct) h3/3 orange - (+) accessory output (WHITE/ black igntion is this correct) h3/4 violet - (+) starter output (car side of starter kill) (BLACK/ white ignition car side) h3/5 green - (+) starter input (key side of the starter kill) (BLACK/ white ignition key side) h3/6 red - ignition 1 +12v input (white ignition) h3/7 pink/white - (30) flex relay output (car side of ign, acc or starter wire) (yellow ignition wire) h3/8 pink/black - (87a) flex relay input (key side of ign, acc or starter wire if needed) (not using do i need this) h3/9 RED / black - accessory/starter relay +12v input (WHITE/ black ignition) h3/10 - no connection Okay guys this is how I have it hooked up. This is obviously my first time doing this and need assistance with the remote start. When I have it hooked up like this I can't even start my car with the key or remote start. What am I doing wrong? When I try remote start my [arking lights flash 7 times but doesn't start and the key won't even start it. Replies: Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: December 06, 2015 at 4:39 PM Here is the H3 wiring : Remote Start H3 ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: December 06, 2015 at 4:49 PM Here is the 24 Pin connector : H2 Harness, 24-pin * Does this monitor all doors? ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: December 06, 2015 at 5:02 PM Your main hurdle is properly bypassing the clutch pedal interlock switch. When you start your car with the key you must
first depress the clutch pedal. The remote starter won't be able to start the car because no one is in there depressing the clutch pedal. I have no info on that vehicle about the clutch interlock. You will have to use a Digital Multi Meter to test it and see what happens during a key start-up ( unless another member has that info available ). You might need a relay to do the job correctly. Adding a remote start system to a manual transmission vehicle is more difficult because of this but it has to be done as a safety, you don't want the car starting in gear and killing some kid playing in the driveway. ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: miscellaneous Date Posted: December 06, 2015 at 6:48 PM I didn't check to see if did monitor all the doors, something I need to check. Thanks for the reply. I'll tackle this here in the next week or so once I get some more free time and I'll update you with what's going on.
Posted By: miscellaneous Date Posted: December 07, 2015 at 4:41 PM Well the door trigger is an issue. It's not trigger alarm when it is armed and door opens. No doors. I had bought an alarm off of ebay reman. Had issues with the unlock when disarming where it wouldn't unlock. It was at a steady -0.01 so I sent it back and got this other one. Same model and everything but with the one I sent back the door trigger zone worked but this one doesn't work and also when I arm the alarm I get a chirp and about 3 seconds later I get another chirp where as the other one had one chirp. From what I've read when you have that second chirp it's a bypass notification and alerting theirs an active trigger zone. Could possibly another trigger zone wire be touching another wire or ground somewhere and cause a zone to be active and not allowing the door trigger zone not to function properly?
Posted By: miscellaneous Date Posted: December 13, 2015 at 8:36 PM Okay the door trigger issues is fixed. I had other wires from the 24 pin harness exposed and the + door trigger was touching a wire making it active by passing the door alarm trigger so the wire I have the - door trigger monitors all doors. I hooked the remote start portion up like kreg357 said to do but it still didn't work. There is a forum specifically for my car and I went by the how to on their website... Now this is how I have it...
nu = not using H2 Harness, 24-pin h2/1 pink/white - (-) 200ma igntion/flex relay control output (nu) h2/2 BLACK/ white - (-) neutral safety input (connected to ebrake switch) h2/3 blue/white - (-) 200ma 2nd status/rear defogger output (nu) h2/4 GREEN/ black - (-) oem alarm disarm output (nu) h2/5 RED / white - (-) 200ma trunk release output (nu) h2/6 green - (-) door trigger input (works and monitors all doors) h2/7 BLACK / YELLOW - (-) 200ma dome light supervision output (nu) h2/8 bronw/black - (-) 200ma horn honk output (nu) h2/9 dark blue - (-) 200ma status output (grounded) h2/10 pink - (-) 200ma ignition 1 output (nu) h2/11 WHITE/ black - (-) 200ma aux 3 output (nu) h2/12 violet - (+) door trigger input (nu) h2/13 WHITE/ violet - (-) 200ma aux 1 output (nu) h2/14 violet/black - (-) 200 ma aux 2 output (nu) h2/15 ORANGE / black - (-) 200ma aux 4 outut (nu) h2/16 brown - (+) brake shutdown input (connected at GREEN / WHITE wire at brake switch) h2/17 grey - (-) hood pin input (nu) h2/18 violet / YELLOW - (-) 200ma starter output (nu) h2/19 blue - (-) trunk instant trigger input (nu) h2/20 grey/black - (-) diesel wait to start output (nu) h2/21 WHITE/ blue - (-) remote start/turbo timer activation input (nu) h2/22 orange - (-) 200ma accessory output (nu) h2/23 violet/white - tachometer input (connected to blue wire at dstrobutot) h2/24 GREEN / WHITE - (-) 200ma oem alarm arm output (nu) Remote Start H3 h3/1 pink - (+) ignition 1 input/output (BLACK / YELLOW ignition) h3/2 RED / white - (87) flex relay +12v input (white 12v constant) h3/3 orange - (+) accessory output (WHITE/ black igntion) h3/4 violet - (+) starter output (car side of starter kill) (BLACK/ white ignition car side) Do i need a relay for this area h3/5 green - (+) starter input (key side of the starter kill) (BLACK/ white ignition key side) h3/6 red - ignition 1 +12v input (white 12v constant) h3/7 pink/white - (30) flex relay output (car side of ign, acc or starter wire) (yellow ignition wire) h3/8 pink/black - (87a) flex relay input (key side of ign, acc or starter wire if needed) (nu) h3/9 RED / black - accessory/starter relay +12v input (white 12v constant) h3/10 - no connection This is how that forum shows the how to but it isnt working for me. I tried the other way I was told on here too and no go. I'm assuming theirs an internal relay in the brain for the starter wires and with the main harness connected the relay opens and nothing triggers it to close and when the main harness is disconnected the relay is closed allowing me to start. Heres my youtube video https://youtu.be/kLo5NW7ISUA Posted By: miscellaneous Date Posted: December 13, 2015 at 9:06 PM Do I need to bypass the clutch switch with the remote start hooked up even to start it with the key?
Posted By: miscellaneous Date Posted: December 14, 2015 at 6:15 PM Remote Start, (H3) 10-pin connector
H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT (BLACK / YELLOW ignition 1) H3/2 RED / WHITE (87) FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) (white 12v constant) H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT (yellow accessory) H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL) (BLACK/ white starter car side) H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL) (BLACK/ white key side) H3/6 RED IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) (BLACK / YELLOW ignition 1) H3/7 PINK/WHITE (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT (car side of ign, acc or starter wire) (BLACK/ white starter car side) H3/8 PINK/BLACK (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT (key side of ign, acc or starter wire if needed) (BLACK/ white starter key side) H3/9 RED / BLACK ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) (yellow accessory) H3/10 NC No Connection Okay I'm not getting any help here guys. Now this is how I currently have it set up and NOW I can at least start the car with the key this way and I couldn't get it to start with the key until I connected the h3/8 to the starter key side which I've seen many places say it's not needed or used. Since I'm past this point I can't get the vehicle to remote start and can not figure it out. I've learned the tach with a 1 parking light flash but can't get any further. When I go to remote start it I get the error tone on my remote fob and I get a 7 parking light flash which states Manual transmission mode is enabled and not initialized. How do I initialize it? Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: December 14, 2015 at 7:03 PM I still stand by my original post for the H3 harness, as follows : I see one major mistake in your H3 wiring and I'll assume another due to the symptoms. All the Red and RED / xxx wires normally go the +12V constant. No exceptions. However, your car does not need the H3/7 The Viper is a complicated high-end system. There are several programming features that need to be set for you install Adding this Viper system should not change or interfere with the normal operation of the car. It will still start normally with the key. ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: miscellaneous Date Posted: December 14, 2015 at 8:23 PM Okay so I went back out and wired it up exactly how you told me to but it would not start with the key. I left h3/7,8,2 disconnected as said. No start, it will not turn over. So I tried something different... I hooked the wires up exactly how you said but I this time I connected the h3/7 pink/white wire to BLACK/ white car side and the h/8 pink/black wire to BLACK/ white key side and I was able to start the car. You say these wires are not needed but it won't start without these two wires hooked up. What is going on here?
Posted By: miscellaneous Date Posted: December 14, 2015 at 8:46 PM 1. All door triggers must be connected and working properly for the alarm system and more importantly for the R/S to
monitor all the doors because of the manual transmission. Does this include trunk trigger, hood pins and so on or just the doors? I've fixed this issue I believe. With the alarm armed each door that gets opened will trigger the alarm (front driver switch triggers alarm, front passenger switch triggers alarm, rear driver switch triggers alarm, rear passenger switch triggers alarm.) 2. You must set the Viper to Engine Checking = Tach. This is another requirement of the manual transmission install. I performed this correctly I think. Start car within 5 seconds I press and hold the control center button and in 3 seconds the control unit blue led came on and stayed on and my parking lights flashed 1 time which the guide says 1 flash is learned through analog wire 2 flashes for interface module through d2d. Seem successful? 3. You must do a successful Viper Tach Learn to establish the proper Tach setting prior to attempting a remote start. 4. You must find a way to bypass the cars clutch interlock. This bypass will ONLY be during a remote start, not a permanent bypass. This is mandatory and a very important safety feature. I'll do this once I get everything else figured out. 5. You must follow the Viper guides instructions for setting up / entering Reservation Mode to enable a remote start. This is a specific set of steps that are taken during shutdown to ensure a safe remote start up. They are listed in the guide. Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: December 14, 2015 at 8:47 PM Strange issue. So right now you have the H3/4 Violet and H3/7 Pink/White connected to the car side of the cut BLACK/ White Starter wire If yes, try this. Remove H3/4, H3/7, H3/5 and H3/8. Reconnect the cut BLACK/ White Starter wire. Program the Viper You will lose the Starter Kill and Anti-Grind features of the Viper but the car will start normally with the key. Next try setting BTW : H2/9 Dark Blue should not be grounded. It is not used for your application. Also H3/2 must get connected to +12V constant. ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: December 14, 2015 at 9:15 PM OK. Points 1 - 3 are OK. Point 4 can wait until later. Just be aware that for now you must manually depress the clutch Here is the info on Point 5: Manual Transmission Start (MTS mode) Ideally, you should also monitor the Trunk trigger. The Hood pin is an important safety feature for the remote start side of things besides being useful for the alarm. ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: miscellaneous Date Posted: December 14, 2015 at 9:23 PM Okay I've just done what you said but how do I do reservation mode? I've looked through manuals but cannot find it.
Posted By: miscellaneous Date Posted: December 14, 2015 at 9:40 PM 1. Start the car
2. Press and hold brake 3. Pull ebrake 4. Open door 5. Release brake 6. Press any button 7. After 20 seconds go to step two (press brake and release ?) This is not working. Posted By: miscellaneous Date Posted: December 14, 2015 at 10:14 PM Blah. Come to think of it... I have a neutral safety switch that hooks to the brain that I don't have hooked up. Doh! Calling it a night and see what happens tomorrow with that connected.
Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: December 15, 2015 at 4:40 AM For Reservation mode to work a bunch of things have to happen and the Viper checks them via its' various inputs to verify. That is why the Brake, EBrake, Door Triggers, etc, must all be connected and working properly. The Viper must see the cars Ignition circuit active through the H3/1 Pink wire. The Viper must see the H2/20 Brake Input go to +12V and the H2/13 Neutral Safety Input coming from the EBrake go to (-). Next the H2/20 Brake Input goes away as you release the Brake pedal. When you next press any button on the Viper remote, the Viper knows that it is going into reservation Mode so it signals a confirmation and starts waiting to a few things happen. The Viper will continue running the engine while you remove the ignition key and exit the car. Obviously the transmission must be in neutral and you must release the clutch pedal to exit the car. This confirms to the Viper that the car is indeed in neutral with the clutch up, the engine idling and no one in the car. Once the last door is closed and you press the Lock / Arm button, it will lock the car, set the alarm and turn off the engine. The Viper is now in full ready Reservation Mode. At this point it will allow a remote start to happen ( you should still be sitting in the drivers seat to test this ). Depress the clutch and press remote start... Remember that reservation mode is canceled if you open a door. This ensures that no one entered the car and moved the shifter from neutral into gear. ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: miscellaneous Date Posted: December 15, 2015 at 10:10 AM Okay I'm finally getting things done. I can successfully remote start now. I get in the car, start it, press brake pedal, pull ebrake, release brake pedal, press command, get key fob confirmation, remove key car stays running, open door, close it (i stay inside of car), hit lock command, doors lock and car shuts off, with me still inside the car I press and hold clutch (to bypass clutch switch), hit remote start button, car starts, unlock doors with fob, open door, close it, put key in ignition to run, hit brake pedal and brake shutdown confirms. Do I have to re do reservation mode every time for remote start to work because I can't get it to work again unless I set reservation again.
Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: December 15, 2015 at 11:30 AM Yes, on a manual transmission vehicle, Reservation Mode has to be set each time you shut down the vehicle if you want to remote start it the next time. This is a mandatory safety procedure to ensure the vehicle is left in neutral and locked / armed the entire time it sat unused. The Viper system has no way of telling directly if the transmission is in neutral from any vehicle sensors or body / engine / transmission computer signals.
------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: miscellaneous Date Posted: December 15, 2015 at 1:44 PM Good deal. Thanks kreg for dealing with me lol. I hooked it up the first time you said but hooked the pink/black wires and pink/wires with the violet and green starter wire. I know this may be uneccessary but so far everything that I have hooked up is functioning as it should. I plan on adding window functions, dome light etc which I'm sure I'll have to add relays and diodes. This is is a later plan when I do research and learn more about all of this alarm stuff. Btw are their DIY subforums here for specific year and models? I'd like to write up a DIY the forum since a lot of information I have gathered have been false information
Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: December 15, 2015 at 3:44 PM There is a Pictorial section to this forum. There you can post a detailed guide with pictures and charts for a specific vehicle ( like your 4th Gen Accord ). I've made a few and while they are time consuming, from the feedback I've gotten, they are very helpful to those wishing to make an upgrade to their vehicle. I'm sure others would benefit from your experience. As a side note, I'm not sure exactly how your H3 harness is currently connected. It seemed from the symptom you were listing that there was something wrong with the Vipers Starter relay affecting the Violet and Green wires ( the car wouldn't start with the key ). That is why I suggested you switch to the Viper's unused Flex relay ( and reprogram the Viper ) for the Starter output. ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: miscellaneous Date Posted: December 15, 2015 at 6:20 PM Maybe the viper alarm is ass backwards because I can hook it up as you normally stated from your very first post with the cut starter wire but instead leaving the violet and green starter wires unhooked and hook the pink/white pink/black to car side and keybside of the starter wire and can start it with the key. Not sure about the remote portion. It is a refurbished alarm so maybe that has something messed up in it... who knows.
Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: December 15, 2015 at 6:29 PM Using the Flex relay ( Pink/White & Pink/Black ) for the cars starter wire, does it give you starter kill and anti-grind?
------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: miscellaneous Date Posted: December 15, 2015 at 8:58 PM What does starter kill and antigrind supposed to do? How do I tell if these functions work?
Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: December 15, 2015 at 9:22 PM Anti-grind : Remote start the car. After it is running for 30 seconds or so, depress the clutch pedal, insert the key and turn it to START. Does the starter motor engage and grind? Anti-grind prevents this by interrupting the starter wire while the engine is remote started. Starter Kill : Sit in the car with the engine off and all doors closed. Lock and arm with the viper. Wait a minute. Depress the clutch pedal, insert the key and try to start the engine. Does it crank? Starter kill prevents the engine from being cranked / started by interrupting the starter wire while the Viper is locked / armed. This was done by the Vipers starter relay and the Violet and Green wires on the H3 harness. I was wondering if that is still true when using the flex relay set to Starter. ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: miscellaneous Date Posted: December 15, 2015 at 9:44 PM I may have it hooked differently than you may think. I redisconnected the starter wire where you told me to hook the cut portion back up and connect the flex relay. Si right now the starter wire is cut with the violet and pink/white wires connected to car side. The green and pink/black wires connected to key side and the menu function set back to default. Starter kill does not work nor does antigrind. I failed to see if this feature worked.... I'll reconnect it the other way and set the menu starter to relay. As of now everything I've tested works besides the antgrind and starter kill. With the menu options I've set, the doors lock upon start and doors unlock with key off. If I remote start and open the door without using the unlock on the key fob the car shuts off and alarms. Doors lock and alarm arms after the last door is closed. Si everything else seems good so far.
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