15 Tacoma Avital 4113 w/dball2
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=139961
Printed Date: April 28, 2024 at 9:51 PM
Topic: 15 Tacoma Avital 4113 w/dball2
Posted By: toytech27
Subject: 15 Tacoma Avital 4113 w/dball2
Date Posted: December 16, 2015 at 8:20 AM
Installed a Avital 4113 with dball2 for immobilizer bypass. Got everything installed and programed, tested multiple times worked fine. A day later it stopped working. Rechecked connections, everything was still plugged in.
Now my issue is there is no response from the unit at all. Checked all the power and grounds at the plugs on the module. Cant get the LED to flash when trying to go into programming either. Seems as the module is dead. Want to make sure before i try and get it replaced that there isnt somthing im missing.
Replies:
Posted By: toytech27
Date Posted: December 16, 2015 at 6:43 PM
I had it working after wiring, then unplugged to tuck it away. Thats when it stopped working. Pulled everything back out and double checked. Possibly the avital changed from D2D when I disconnected everything. Would that cause the avital to be totally unresponsive?
Posted By: pts760
Date Posted: December 16, 2015 at 8:51 PM
Test all 12v connections at the A&G vital with reference to the ground pin on the avital. Test everything at the avital not where you made your power and ground connections. If u have 12.6+ volts tap the WHITE/ blue (activation input) wire to ground.
If the avital responds "a" you have your antenna unplugged, "b" your remote has dead batteries, "c" your remotes need reprogrammed, or "d" your antenna, antenna cable, or remote is bad.
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I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage
Posted By: lectricguy
Date Posted: December 17, 2015 at 5:46 AM
Check what PTS 760 said, also double check the ground connection of the Neutral Safety Wire. If you used the switch inline with Neutral Safety, check the switch connections and make sure that the switch is "on".
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Lectric Guy
Posted By: toytech27
Date Posted: December 17, 2015 at 10:30 AM
Hoping to get back on it Saturday. I checked all connections at the remote start module. Im going to triple check everything again and check pin fit. Only tested at the back of the connector.
I forgot about tapping the activation wire to ground to see if that works. I got a bunch of good info from the site and hope to track it down.
Posted By: beegbie
Date Posted: December 17, 2015 at 5:18 PM
Do a shutdown diagnostic and report back.
Posted By: toytech27
Date Posted: December 19, 2015 at 8:27 AM
Double checked today. Have 12v constant at connecor. Proper power in acc and ign. Ran a ground wire to the battery and ohm checked at the connector the neutral wire and ground wire. Both are good. Tried the activation wire to ground still no response, no clicking or LED flashing. I tried shutdown diag but doesnt do anything either.
At this point Im guessing the module is dead. Now I have to figure out how to get it warrantied since I bought it off of Amazon. Did a few Autopage installs the dealer I work at a few years ago so this isnt my first time installing one. Dont see how it would have worked the 10 times I tested it then stop working the next day.
Currently have the DBALL2 disconnected just trying to get the remote start back to functioning. These are the wires I have hooked up on the remote start if someone could confirm Im not missing anything and that I possibly have a bad module.
H1/8 - Chassis ground
Door lock light blue - Grn/Blk at drivers door connector
Door lock green - Violet at drivers door connector
H2/1 - BLK/RED IGN SWITCH
H2/2 - GRN/BLK IGN SWITCH
H2/3 - WHT/GRN IGN SWITCH
H2/4 - WHT/RED IGN SWITCH
H2/5 - BLU/YEL IGN SWITCH
H2/6 - WHT/BLU IGN SWITCH
Satellite harness 3 - 2nd starter relay
H3/1 - Chassis ground
H3/2 - BLK/WHT AT DLC
H3/3 - BLUE AT BRAKE SWITCH
Posted By: pts760
Date Posted: December 19, 2015 at 11:56 AM
I will double check your connections but the avital 4113 manual I'm looking at isn't matching the PIN numbers that you supplied for for avital 4113 (ex. there is nothing labeled H3 in the manual)..Am I missing something or is there a mistake on your behalf
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I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage
Posted By: pts760
Date Posted: December 19, 2015 at 12:41 PM
My bad I had the wrong manual. Conections look good. I assume you used a DMM and put the black lead on H1/8 ground and the red lead on both H2/4 & H2/6 for 12v?
If good leave the black probe on H1/8 and put the red probe on H2/1 to test for ignition. No programming or shutdown diagnostics will happen if this circuit is bad.
If good, trying completely disconnecting the brain and letting it sit for 15-20 to discharge the internal components before plugging it back in ( I've had some luck with this. Plug the H2 harness in first followed by the other harnesses then test it. No luck?
Try bench testing. If u have spare harnesses all you need is 12v on H2/4 & H2/6, ground on H1/8, and switch power on H2/1 ign for programming purposes. Also, plug the antenna in to and test the unit for functionality with the remotes and WHITE/ blue activation input. If no luck, the unit is defective. Good luck
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I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage
Posted By: toytech27
Date Posted: December 21, 2015 at 7:56 PM
Im going to bench test in the morning as a last ditch effort. Im guessing the module is dead. Any luck with getting them to warranty it? I see they say warranty is only good if installed through an authorized dealer. I guess if they dont cover it, Amazon may possibly swap it out. I just dont want to have to unsolder the wires to send it back and resolder it when I get the new one.
Posted By: beegbie
Date Posted: January 02, 2016 at 8:16 PM
beegbie wrote:
Do a shutdown diagnostic and report back.
Posted By: pts760
Date Posted: January 02, 2016 at 8:23 PM
beegbie wrote:
beegbie wrote:
Do a shutdown diagnostic and report back.
How is that possible if the unit won't respond? ------------- I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage
Posted By: beegbie
Date Posted: January 03, 2016 at 7:30 AM
It's specifically why shutdown diagnostics are built into the unit. It will tell you exactly why the unit isn't responding!
If you try it and get no response, it means you should check power, ground, override button operation, and ignition. If all those test properly then we can assume the unit is bad. A defective unit is extremely rare.
Posted By: pts760
Date Posted: January 03, 2016 at 10:15 AM
beegbie wrote:
It's specifically why shutdown diagnostics are built into the unit. It will tell you exactly why the unit isn't responding!
If you try it and get no response, it means you should check power, ground, override button operation, and ignition. If all those test properly then we can assume the unit is bad. A defective unit is extremely rare.
Read the full post this has already been discussed ------------- I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage
Posted By: beegbie
Date Posted: January 03, 2016 at 1:12 PM
Then it's pretty simple. If you have power, ground, ignition, and a good programming button and it won't respond to shutdown diagnostics. The brain is bad. I've just never seen one go bad like this. I'm sure if you get a replacement everything will be fine.
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