Honda Fit 2015 AT Viper 4706v with ads alca

Hi,

I just got these 2 units, I haven't gotten the ads-alca flashed yet to dbi yet,
and i'm completely new at this, but decent at electronics.. so i'm trying to understand what i'm supposed to plug in.
I'm going to use D2D from 4706v to alca, and I found the diagram for my car for the alca, https://cdncontent2.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-HA6/ADS-AL(DL)-HA6-EN_20151223.pdf
its type 12, and I have no problem finding everything in that diagram, but I have no idea if or what I have to plug in from the 4706v side when using d2d.. do I have to splice anything from the car to the 4706v( 4x06) ?
obviously I need to plug in the ... RF for the control antenna and such. I cant seem to find any documentation for anything else I would need to plug in.. so i'm wondering if someone can point me in the right direction
Thanks

If memory serves me, the 4706 is a R/S w/keyless only ( no alarm functions ) unit.  Get the ADS AL-CA flashed with the
DBI- DL HA6 firmware and follow the Type 12 install diagram ( assuming non-PTS ).

The bypass will supply the Viper with :  Tach & Brake plus Hood Status if it has a factory alarm system with installed hood
pin.  The bypass will handle the transponder bypass, locks and alarm system ( if equipped ).

You will still need to connect the Viper to these wires in the Fit :
12volts         white (50A)      +    ignition switch, 5 pin plug, pin 1
Starter          green               +  ignition switch, 5 pin plug, pin 5   
Ignition         red       +  ignition switch, 5 pin plug, pin 2   
Accessory   lt. green           +  ignition switch, 5 pin plug, pin 4   
Second Accessory  yellow   +  ignition switch, 5 pin plug, pin 3
Parking Lights-        gray      -  headlight switch, 12 pin plug, pin 8
Horn Trigger  purple   -  horn switch, 20 pin plug, pin 2
Chassis Ground

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks a ton, yes its a no alarm r/s unit. I think I understand which harnesses/wires on the fit itself to do.
i'm not quite clear on the viper part though..

this is the reference that came with the viper..
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1318

from your post, it says 12v 50a for example.. theres soo many harnesses on the viper unit that have some kind of 12vdc constant input.. I haven't a clue which wires you're talking about for some of these things. any help would be wonderful!
I gather that
starter green + ignition switch 5pinplug-pin5 refers to... the viper remote start 8 pin connector pin 5 in the viper manual?
the rest i'm not too sure.

Also for some of my readings, some people refer to relays or diodes or such, do I require any of those things?


Thanks again!

12volts         white (50A)      +    ignition switch, 5 pin plug, pin 1     H1/1, H3/1, H3/4, H3/7
Starter          green   +  ignition switch, 5 pin plug, pin 5       H3/5
Ignition         red       +  ignition switch, 5 pin plug, pin 2       H3/8
Accessory    lt. green +  ignition switch, 5 pin plug, pin 4       H3/6
Second Accessory  yellow   +  ignition switch, 5 pin plug, pin 3       H3/3
Parking Lights-        gray      -  headlight switch, 12 pin plug, pin 8   H1/5
Horn Trigger   purple   -  horn switch, 20 pin plug, pin 2          H1/3
Chassis Ground H1/2, H2/13

Remote Start, 8-pin connector
1 RED / BLACK (+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT for ACC and starter relays       White
2 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY        not used
3 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT   set for ACC2          Yellow          
4 RED (+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT for ignition 1 relay       White
5 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT    Green
6 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT         Light Green
7 RED / WHITE (+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT for ignition 2 and flex relays     White
8 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT        Red

H3/  =  Remote Start 8 Pin thick wires
H1/  =  Main Harness 6 Pin
H2/  =  Aux 24 Pin harness

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Soldering is fun!

thanks a ton, I think I have a plan of action now I have like 3-4 wiring diagrams ready and your messages I think I know exactly wht to do.. at first I was gonna do soldering but then I read that the tapins should work just as good.. as long as its done properly..
gonna start prep work..

1 more. dunno if you can help , on the aux harness 24pin H2,
pin.. 10 says blue factory horn input with a * next to it saying this optional input can be connected to horn circuit in vehicles with factory alarm, when this wire receives input for a min of 5 seconds the system reports a trigger on the 2 way remote.
should I connect that somehow?
all the rest of the pins i'm removing from the connector so that I don't have to cut the wires.

Does the Fit have the Factory Alarm?  If yes, you could connect that wire and get an alert of an alarm trigger if you are within range of the car.  If you don't have the Factory Alarm system, no sense in making that connection. 

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Soldering is fun!

I think it does.. I know that when I lock the car on the dashboard theres a quick blinking red light for like some amount of seconds 15-30 seconds before it "arms" I've never been able to set it off, but none the less i'm pretty sure theres some kind of factory alarm, reading some stuff, they say its passive only so like if the lock pin opens and or the .. hood or trunk is opened while armed it may scream? not sure how I would do that though. without actually breaking into the car through the doors..

does this change anything for my install? the fact that it has a factory alarm?

Roll down the drivers window.  Close all the doors.  Press lock on the factory remote twice.  Wait 1 minute.  Reach in the open window and use the inside door lever to open the drivers door.  Is the horn beeping?  If yes, you have the Factory Alarm.  Try the same routine but sit in the car.  After the 1 minute wait, pop open the hood.  Is the horn beeping?  If yes, you have the factory hood pin.

Doesn't really change anything.  The bypass module will supply the Hood Pin input for the Viper.  The Viper must be able to disarm the Fit prior to a Remote Start.  The Disarm input to the bypass module should do that but on some Honda's a Unlock before and / or Lock after R/S is required.  You will find out during testing.

 

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Soldering is fun!

you must be like the god of knowledge or something.. and you're always on here !

here's one for you,
12volts      white (50A)      +    ignition switch, 5 pin plug, pin 1     H1/1, H3/1, H3/4, H3/7

Do you suppose I could combine the h1/1 h3/1 h3/4 and h3/7 into say h3/1 then only connect h3/1 to the 5pinplug pin1.. ? theoretically seems like its ok, because the viper H3 appears to be 12gauge (2.0mm).. and from what I can find, it seems 12awg will work ok up to 60amps.@12v..
I wonder what awg the white ignition harness 5 pin is using.. because at 50amps... seems like its cutting it awfully close.. (just don't want the car to catch on fire)

I believe that White wire is a slight bit thicker gauge than the Viper H3 wires.  You could run all four +12V input wires to the connection point and then combine 2 of them into one with only 3 inches of a single wire left to the White wire source connection point.  I would not combine all 4 together just after the fuses and then run a single wire any distance to the White source wire.

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Soldering is fun!

finally did all the wiring.. car didn't explode...
so I guess that's a good sign,
and it still starts with normal key.. and such.
but I cant program the idatalink ...
after I choose data mode, it just flashes red...
not sure what to do.. I guess. should take a continuity meter to check all the splices.. ?

which wires would cause the idatalink to just blind red?

Slow red flash usually means that the alca doesn't see can activity. This means you aren't connected to the correct can wires or the module is not flashed with the correct firmware.

nice, I redid those 2 super thin can wires, and it works now.
one thing that I cant seem to get working is re-locking after start...
once its started I cant relock with keyfob or with remote fob.
I tried setting the option menu1 option 4 to lock only. so that it relocks after start but it still doesn't do it..
only when the engine is off does the lock / unlock buttons work on fobs and r/s fob..
any ideas?

Did you connect the ADS AL CA WHITE/ Black wire on the top 3 Pin plug to the GREEN/ Red wire on the 6 Pin plug?  D2D
won't do that for you.  Also must connect the White and WHITE/ Red wires to the Fit's lock wires.  The only other thing
you need is the Starter input from the Viper to the ADS AL CA but D2D should be handling that for you.

The ADS AL CA can do a re-lock after start if you connect the PURPLE / Black wire to Chassis Ground.  Another case
where D2D doesn't do that for you.

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Soldering is fun!

hmm I did all of the above.... doodie. I have a feeling I have another bad splice... I really should test them all.. before I close up the whole dashboard.. shieett.

but if that's the case, why does the lock and unlock button on the viper remote work when the engine is off?

Goes through a different path.  While the engine is off, it uses the ORANGE / Black wire to KeyData.  While the engine is running it uses the direct connections to the lock wires.  It uses the Starter and GWR signals to know the difference.

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Soldering is fun!