Keyless Entry on 1990 Volvo 240

Hello all,

I've been trying to install a keyless entry on my '90 Volvo 240. I received a very inexpensive no name keyless entry for Christmas and I thought I would try to put it in.

Before I actually started the install on the keyless, I installed a factory Volvo lock actuator in the driver's door as everyone I've talked to said I must do. It is a two wire actuator, and I tapped into the factory relays yellow and blue wires that matched the wiring on the actuator.

Now, the keyless unit has no name on it, but it looks very similar to others I've seen. It uses a three button remote that controls lock, unlock and trunk release. The brain has a wiring harness that has 13 wires coming out of it. I've figured out all the wires except for the six that are designated for the key lock controls. A friend of mine installed a keyless on his Volvo and it went smooth as clockwork, but this keyless is way different than his. His used a positive and a ground, and then he had one wire that tapped into the relay negative lock wire (red) and another wire that tapped into the negative unlock wire (green) and that was it. No added relays or anything else. Very simple.

The six wires on my unit are as follows: orange (NC), white (COM), yellow (NO), ORANGE / black (NC), WHITE/ black (COM), and yellow/black (NO). There are a few diagrams but they are so confusing I can't make them out, and no matter how I hook them up I can't get it to work. Am I going to need to install an additional relay or can I do the two wire hook up like my friend did?

Sorry this is so vague, I have pictures of the schematic that came with the unit, but I don't know how to post it here. Hopefully I have given enough information so all you install masters can give me a direction to go in. Thanks in advance for any help you can give me. Happy New Year! E

Try orange and ORANGE / black to ground.
White and WHITE/ black to motor(AKA actuator, solenoid).
Yellow and yellow/black to a 10 amp fused constant.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks for the info Howie II. I forgot to mention that there was a schematic I could understand that had it wired that way. I hooked it up that way with the actuator on my workbench and it did work, but I had hooked it directly to the actuator without the use of relays, so I didn't think it would work to unlock all the doors when I push the button on the remote.

If I hook it directly to the one door actuator, will it unlock all the doors or just the driver's door? To open all the doors do I need to figure out how to wire it to the relays? Thanks again for the reply.    E

Locking system back then in the driver's door uses a microswitch to trigger the factory relays.
By installing that one solenoid your moving that microswitch to either its lock or unlock position, that therefore controls all the locks.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks Howie. I'll get out and try to hook it up that way once the weather here warms up a bit and I'll post the results. Again, I appreciate the help. Take care!   E