Viper 5301-2LE starter not allowing car to start

Hi guys, I have been using this forum very extensively to install the viper 2-way remote starter in my 2004 Sienna. I used the pictorials form here.

I am using an idatalink Bypass module, which is wired correctly as the led's indicate.

When I first hooked up all the wires, the car started right up. Everything was good, I went into auto mode and the tach was learned.

The problem started when I decided to neatly tuck the wires, I made connections to the same wires etc, and made sure I didn't miss anything.

After the module and the remote start were put in place, the car decided not to start. The door locks work fine. But It won't start from the remote start OR they key. I have tried numerous times, but before I could start it with the key and now its not letting me start with the key either.

When I run the start up shutdown diagnostic, it gives me three flases for Low or NO RPM. I know that the module is fine, as the led blinks green when it tries to start.

Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks

I should also mention the fans turn on, but the tach doesn't light up... once it tries starting by remote, by key the car cranks, but it doesn't hold the rpms and dies very quickly and runs VERY rich.

I'm going to go through every single wire so that way you guys can tell me where I screwed up.

Main Harness H1 (12 pin Connector)

(H1/1) RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT -- Not used
(H1/2) RED + 12 V DC Constant Input -- 12 V constant RED / White on Ignition Harness

(H1/3) BROWN (-) 200mA Horn Honk OUTPUT -- GREEN/ BLACK on HORN HARNESS

(H1/4) WHITE/ BROWN Light flash Isolation wire- PIN 87a of onboard relay -- Not used

(H1/5) Black (-) Chassis Ground -- Grounded to chassis

(H1/6) Violet (+) Door Trigger Input -- Not used

(H1/7) Blue Factory Horn Input (use jumper to set polarity) -- Not used

(H1/8) Green (-) Door Trigger Input (N/C or N/O) – Connected to RED / Yellow on the driver side door sill harness.

(H1/9) BLACK/ White (-) 200mA Dome Light Output -- Not used

(H1/10) WHITE/ BLUE (-) Remote Start / Turbo Timer Activation input -- Not used

(H1/11) White (+) Parking Light Output – Connected to GREEN/ black on Headlight Connector Harness

(H1/12) Orange (-) 500 mA Ground when Armed Output -- Not used



Door Lock, 3-pin Connector
1 BLUE 500mA (-) Unlock OUTPUT --- Connected to passenger side kick-panel Blue / YELLOW wire.

2 EMPTY NOT USED

3 GREEN 500mA (-) Lock Output – Connected to Driver Side kick-panel top Plug Light Green (lock) wire.



H2 Harness (18-Pin Connector)

(H2/1) Light Green / Black (-) 200mA Factory Alarm Disarm Output -- Connected to Driver Side kick-panel top Plug BLUE (un-lock) wire. Disarms when unlocked ?

(H2/2) Orange / Black (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT – not used

(H2/3) GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA Factory Alarm Arm output – Connected to Driver Side kick-panel top Plug Light Green (lock) wire. ARMS when locked.

(H2/4) Violet / Black (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT – not used

(H2/5) White / Black (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT – not used

(H2/6) White / Violet (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT – not used

(H2/7) GREY / Black (-) Diesel Wait to start Input - not used

(H2/8) EMPTY

(H2/9) VIOLET/ WHITE Tachometer Input – Connected to behind glove box, ECM harness, top plug, BLACK/ ORANGE wire pin 5.

(H2/10) DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT – not used

(H2/11) PINK / WHITE (-) 200mA FLEX Relay Control OUTPUT – not used

(H2/12) ORANGE (-) 200mA Accessory OUTPUT – Connected to PINK accessory wire in Ignition Connector Harness

(H2/13) PURPLE (-) 200mA Starter OUTPUT – Connected to BLACK / YELLOW starter wire in ignition Harness.

(H2/14) PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT – Connected to BLACK ignition 1 wire in Ignition Connector Harness.

(H2/15) GREY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT NC or NO – Connected upfront, using the hood pin.

(H2/16) BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA Second Status / Rear Defogger OUTPUT – Connected to YELLOW /GREEN wire of Rear defrost, located in the fusebox Top left plug from drivers side.

(H2/17) BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT – Connected to GREEN / WHITE wire at Brake Pedal PLUG.

(H2/18) BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT – GROUNDED TO CHASSIS


Remote Start (H3) 8-Pin Connector

(H3/1) PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT – Connected to Ignition 1 BLACK wire at Ignition Connector Harness.

(H3/2) RED / WHITE (+) FUSED (30 A) IGNITION 2 / FLEX Relay INPUT 87 – Connected to 12 V Constant WHITE/ RED wire at Ignition Connector Harness.

(H3/3) ORANGE (+) Accessory OUTPUT – Connected to PINK Accessory wire at Ignition Connector Harness.

(H3/4) VIOLET (+) STARTER /OUTPUT – Connected to Starter wire BLACK / YELLOW wire at Ignition Connector Harness.

(H3/5) RED (+) FUSED (30 A) IGNITION 1 INPUT – Connected to 12 V Constant WHITE/ RED wire at Ignition Connector Harness.

(H3/6) PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 FLEX RELAY OUTPUT – Connected to IGNITION 2 BLACK / YELLOW (THIN) wire at Ignition Connector Harness.

(H3/7) PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A Key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY – not used

(H3/8) RED / BLACK (+) FUSED (30 A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT – Connected to 12 V Constant WHITE/ RED wire at Ignition Connector Harness.

So, I have narrowed the problem down to what I *think* is the factory engine immobilizer. When I insert the chipped key, the security light on the dash goes away, meaning that it knows there is a chip key, and there is a correct key.

I wait a few secs and then start it, its a little hesitant at first but then fires up. Still no remote start...

Neither vehicle nor by-pass sold in Europe BUT doesn't the alca need to be connected to the blue status output H2/10 to trigger it?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I see some problems with the low current (-) ignition wires connected to the car.  Specifically, you should NOT connect
H2/12, H2/13 and H2/14 to the Sienna's high current (+) ignition wires.  Only connect the H3/ thick (+) wires as you have
done/ indicated.

A few Viper programming notes.
Make use the Viper Parking Light jumper / fuse is set to (-).
Make sure the Viper is programmed so that the H3/6  Pink/White Flex output is set to ACC.
Make sure the Viper is programmed for Blue/White 2nd Status wire = Defrost - Latched
While it should happen automatically on some Vipers, ensure that you are in Tach Mode and the Tach Learn was successful.

If you are using an ADS AL-CA as your bypass module and going D2D, it should have been flashed with the DBI flavor of
firmware, DBI-AL(TB)-TL.  Follow the Type 2 install diagram in guide #10349.  All solid Black lines are hardwired connections,
including the Ignition Input.

If you are using an ADS TB as your bypass module and going D2D, it should have been flashed with the DBI flavor of
firmware, DBI TB-TL.  Follow the Type 2 install diagram in guide #10350.  All solid Black lines are hardwired connections,
including the Ignition Input.

With either module and D2D mode make sure that you have the Installation Mode set to Data ( one blink ) and locked in
prior to programming the bypass module to the van.  This is shown right above the Type 2 programming instructions. 

The DBI firmware is needed to go D2D with the Viper R/S unit.  If the bypass module has the ADS flavor of firmware,
either re-flash it to DBI or go W2W with the Red dashed wire lines ( and set the Installation Mode to Standard ( 2 blinks )).

At this point, after verifying the bypass module wiring and firmware, I would do a Factory Reset on the module, then set
the Installation Mode ( D2D = Data and W2W = Standard ) and lock it in.  Next follow the steps to program the bypass
module to the minivan.

I am assuming a D2D connection because you did not list using the Vipers H2/10 (-) Status Output. 

If you are using a Solo series bypass module like the ADS TBSL KO or ADS TBSL TI, these modules cannot go D2D
with the Viper system and must be wired in the W2W mode.  It's only 3 direct connections, +12V power, Chassis Ground
and GWR ( to Viper Dark Blue (-) Status Output ) instead of the D2D harness.

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Soldering is fun!

Thank you so much for the reply!.

@howie II - The idatalink doesn't specify putting any status wires. Only needs, keysense, code, txct and ignition wiring, Its connected with the starter through a datamode cable.

@kreg357
Where should the H2/12, H2/13 and H2/14 go then?

Fuse is set correctly.
Not sure what Acc is?
How would I go about programming the defrost for the 2nd status wire?

Tach was learned on the first time it started up, would i need to relearn it again, since I took all the wires out and the battery off to make the wires cleaner?

I have an ADS AL-CA, that uses a datalink cable. It has been flashed with the correct firmware. All the black connections are done, including the ignition connection that goes to ignition 1.

Thanks again. I appreciate you guys' help alot.

H2/12, H2/13 and H2/14 go then? Not connected.
Acc = accessory.


-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Done on the H2/12, H2/13 and H2/14 wires. Not used anymore.

Super dumb question coming your way,

How do I program the H3/6 Pink/White Flex so that the output is set to ACC?

Its connected to ignition 2 wire at ignition, because it says ignition 2 / flex relay...

Thanks again!

That's the correct setting and connection why would you want to change it?

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok so it still doesnt work.. I have removed the required connection, now once you start the car by key, the car doesnt die when you take the key out... it fells like the starter keeps going...

I also get 6 flashes and 3 flashes together...

Time to strip it all out. I think you fried the brain first time around.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ah, just what I was afraid of.... How do I find out how much damage is done? My ecu gone bad or?

Disconnected everything, luckily the car is still fine, 6 flashes were because the hood pin wasnt activated, forgot to close the hood. Should I go over all the wiring once more? or is there no use at even trying now?

Alarm ECU is probably fried best way is to test everything with a meter.
Ignition is probably shorting to constant live.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok, Im going to check that.

In the mean time, I have connected my unlock to the unlock all wire under the passenger kick-panel. But my Disarm wire is connected to the unlock on the driver side (the blue wire which requires a double tap signal). Is that ok?

1 more thing to note, the car doesnt lock, only unlocks. And i tested with a voltmeter, and there is no signal coming from the viper module.


Thanks again.

howie ll wrote:

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Alarm ECU is probably fried best way is to test everything with a meter.
Ignition is probably shorting to constant live.

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I would think that too.

You grounded out your high current R/S wires and ignition switch wires through your -200ma same name connections.

mscguy wrote:

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howie ll wrote:

---

Alarm ECU is probably fried best way is to test everything with a meter.
Ignition is probably shorting to constant live.

---

I would think that too.

You grounded out your high current R/S wires and ignition switch wires through your -200ma same name connections.

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Can you please tell me exactly which wire I have grounded? I am not too sure what you mean by high current R/S wires. My english is very poor.

Thank you.


I have been looking around and it seems that the alarm immobalizer ecu is perfectly fine. If I take the alarm and remote start out, and everything else (idatalink out). The car starts up/ shuts down, locks, arms and disarms like normal. So I have forsure messed up the wiring somewhere. I will double check once more to make sure I am indeed connecting the proper connections.

Appreciate your help guys.

kreg357 wrote:

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I see some problems with the low current (-) ignition wires connected to the car.  Specifically, you should NOT connect
H2/12, H2/13 and H2/14 to the Sienna's high current (+) ignition wires.  Only connect the H3/ thick (+) wires as you have
done/ indicated.

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This is what I meant. By connecting both, you may have fried something inside.