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Viper 5305V Remote Start, 2008 Toyota Corolla

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=140731
Printed Date: May 02, 2024 at 3:31 AM


Topic: Viper 5305V Remote Start, 2008 Toyota Corolla

Posted By: harv63
Subject: Viper 5305V Remote Start, 2008 Toyota Corolla
Date Posted: January 26, 2016 at 8:47 PM

Hello everyone, I'm new to this site and thought I could ask for some advise on installing a 5305V Viper alarm/remote start I'm having trouble installing. I have searched around and this site looks to be the most helpful of them all. I have a 2008 toyota corolla with a factory alarm very basic car but reliable. I purchased this alarm/remote on ebay thinking I could install it bad idea now I'm stuck. I also have a flashlogic module flashed to the car from Crutchfield so it begins. They sent me the cars wire diagram DiretWire easy enough to read . I hooked up the module using the D2D cable to the remote start hooked up key sense wire ,hooked up code to #4 and TXCT to #5 at ignition but the only wire in question is the thin pink wire off the module does it join the heavy pink wire to the ignition 1 at the key?   The main harness 5 pin connectors I did get this hooked up no problem . Door lock good connection works , it's the 24 pin connector I'm am unsure of looks like most of them I don't need.This is what I hooked up H-13,20. On the 10 pin connector heavy Gauge connected H-2,5,9 constant power, H-6 key side of cut starter wire, H-7 car side starter, H-8 accessory, H-10 to main ignition 1, H-3 not used and H-4 to 2nd ignition . I can clean this post up if it's to long winded I just can't grasp why it won't work relay clicks on and off to try and start alarm works fine and door locks work and parking lights flash if anyone can shed some light on my problem it sure would be appreciated thank you in advance.


       
H1= Main Harness 5 pin Connector H4-not used ?
H1- hooked to ground - Black      H5-Parking light output to green car
H2- siren brown
H3- 12 volt constant to white in car



Replies:

Posted By: mscguy
Date Posted: January 26, 2016 at 9:43 PM
A little tough to read, but lets see.

Module pink goes to your 5305V Heavy Gauge H10 +ign, as well as your Ignition switch      BLACK/ white      +      ignition switch, white 6 pin plug, pin 6


Is your car automatic?

What did you connect H13 and 20 to?

Did you connect a hood pin?






Posted By: harv63
Date Posted: January 26, 2016 at 10:11 PM
Thank you for the help that's how I had the pinks hooked up glad to hear that just wanted to confirm this.    


The car is automatic transmission.

The install guide states hook up H13 to one wire of remote start shutoff switch ( toggle switch on and off )
and the other to the parking brake wire but I cheated and went to a ground is that bad ? It should really go to the RED / black at the switch brown 1 pin plug.pin 1

H10 is hooked up to the brake pedal GREEN / WHITE switch above pedal.

I did nothing with the hood pin switch wire just did not connect H9 gray
I will install it after I get it to run unless that's the reason it won't work.








Posted By: mscguy
Date Posted: January 26, 2016 at 10:19 PM
Not cheating at all. Quite often there is an asterisk next to that connection that says to do just that. As long as you tested that your car will not crank in gear, its fine.

You mention your parking lights flash, which is good. Does it flash a certain number of times after you attempt to remote start?

Is the car cranking and not running, or not cranking at all?




Posted By: harv63
Date Posted: January 26, 2016 at 10:57 PM
The parking lights flash once every time I hear the module click and ignition beeps like there is a key in it does that 3 times and stops.

The car is not cranking at all . I did not install the tach wire to anything I wanted to try Virtual tach after first start.





Posted By: harv63
Date Posted: January 26, 2016 at 11:14 PM
I'm wondering if I need to program the tach first in virtual tach before it will start it does say use the key to start up first then program within 5 seconds pushing the control button for 3 seconds then light is constant and it's programed. Can't be that easy . I'm going to sleep on it I do appreciate your help. I plan on calling Crutchfield tomorrow to confirm that the module got programed to my car. Does it also need to be programmed to my alarm also? Just a thought. Thanks much to be continued. ....




Posted By: mscguy
Date Posted: January 27, 2016 at 12:01 AM
Did you confirm all your connections with a dmm before connecting? Wiring diagrams are sometimes wrong with colours.

Do your fuses check ok? Check with a meter, not just visually.

What happens if you try to remote start the car with the key in ign? Not turned, just in. What about turned to on?

24 pin harness. Pin 11 WHITE/ blue activation input. Touch that to ground. What happens?

Are all your harnesses inserted all the way? Any bent pins?




Posted By: mscguy
Date Posted: January 27, 2016 at 12:10 AM
Where is your ground connected? Don't ground to a dash screw, go to the kick panel, sand to bare metal and screw to that.




Posted By: harv63
Date Posted: January 27, 2016 at 10:00 AM
Hello, OK I did make a ground connection at the kick panel but I
didn't sand off the paint but I'm confident its a good ground I can see metal on the screw hole connected to wires.

I did not use a dmm on every wire to confirm but I did use it to check the power on the white wire constant power 12 volts. The wires are all the same colors as the directwire chart I will need to do this then just to narrow down the problem.

I did not try to start the car with the key in or turned on that will be next to try when I get home today , also does the door need to be closed to remote start? Door switch is open this might cause a problem.

I will inspect the fuses again pulled all of them out they look fine I will use the dmm to check all fused connections across each fuse.

The 24 pin harness thats odd you ask about this wire the WHITE/ blue Manuel states this wire not only activates the remote start it also can be used to change feature options when programming. Not sure where to put this wire to but I did touch it to ground and it activates the remote start like I pushed the fob button on remote is that normal?

I did inspect all the harness connections they are all locked in no bent pins.

I will let you know later when I install the unit again to see how the unit reacts I will triple check connections. If you know where I can put the WHITE/ blue wire that would be great .thanks




Posted By: mscguy
Date Posted: January 27, 2016 at 10:37 AM
Make sure to check the ign switch wires with a meter.

That toggle switch you connected is in the ON position right?

Don't permanently connect that WHITE/ blue wire. You touched it to ground, and it tried to activate the remote start. Thats good enough.

Does the car start with just it's own key still?




Posted By: harv63
Date Posted: January 27, 2016 at 12:33 PM
Ok I'll check the wires with a dmm correct? That won't cause a problem with that correct? I know for a fact I had no power at the cut wire starter side connected to the violet wire off 10 pin harness H7. What am I looking for at the ignition wires main BLACK/ white and 2nd ignition BLACK / YELLOW for power?

The toggle switch is on for sure one end going to ground and the other going to H13 BLACK/ white on 24 pin harness. When its off nothing happens seams correct.

Got you on the WHITE/ blue won't make it permanent.

Yes the car does start with the key when I had it hooked up.

I'm going to solder in the power this time into the white wire making a tee harness so I don't have a big goob on one connection split it up neatness.

I also had to program the module per the flashligic guide for wire diagram #2 that went ok followed the instructions.





Posted By: mscguy
Date Posted: January 27, 2016 at 12:37 PM
Ign wires will have +12v when key is in on/run position. Starter wire will only show +12 in the crank position.




Posted By: harv63
Date Posted: January 27, 2016 at 1:56 PM
Ok I'll be sure to check that thanks. Also I called the place I got the module from they are going recheck how they flashed it might be a problem I will call them when I have it all hooked up again in the car to confirm program the light didn't flash correct when I did it two times have up check every possible issue.




Posted By: harv63
Date Posted: January 27, 2016 at 5:00 PM
Ok I'm back in the saddle under the
dash with the key on I have 12 volts on ignition 1 and same on ignition 2 also I have power at accessory with key on.

I'm going to hook up all wires now as manual states. Starter wire has power when all the turned.




Posted By: harv63
Date Posted: January 28, 2016 at 9:10 PM
Hello, well I soldered all the connections this time and made sure to check all wiring connections twice before making them permanent. I checked all fuses and they are good.

I called the vendor to make sure I set up programming for flashlogic module correct they walked me thru it and confirmed it's correct. I'm using DTD mode and wiring confirmed correct.

I can't think of what I missed on this install the ground is good the car dash lights up as if I have key in ignition cycles on and off 3 times and that's it no start still. They did have me try and remote start the car with key in ignition and they said it should remote start but it didn't they told me it has to be incorrect wiring or problem with the viper 5305v unit on the remote start. The alarm works perfect locks doors parking lights good, chirps every command.


I'm thinking it's a bad remote on the unit itself I'm ready to throw in the towel I appreciate all the great advise you gave me but not sure what else to do might be time to get help from a viper dealer. Thanks again.





Posted By: mscguy
Date Posted: January 28, 2016 at 9:17 PM
Are you sure you have the two sides of the start kill relay connected correctly?

PIn 6 and 7 on the heavy gauge harness.

Put your dmm on pin 7 (starter side) and attempt to remote start. See if it shows +12v at any point.




Posted By: harv63
Date Posted: January 28, 2016 at 10:00 PM
I will check in the morning but I'm pretty sure I did that the manual said to do it in troubleshooting and I had nothing Violet wire to red cut starter wire, starter side Im getting no power transfer wherever that happens. I pulled all the fuses out checked with meter and they were good. It's nuts.




Posted By: harv63
Date Posted: January 28, 2016 at 10:10 PM
Do you think I'm missing any wires on 24 pin harness there was not many to this car was just going for the basics. H17 is not hooked up to anything, H2 I didn't hook up . If you have any suggestions I'm all ears.




Posted By: mscguy
Date Posted: January 28, 2016 at 11:05 PM
You'll have to type out every wire and what you connected them to. Preferably colours and location of what you connected to as well.




Posted By: harv63
Date Posted: January 29, 2016 at 7:48 AM
Sorry,that was my next step to give you a recap of what I did so far..

Main Harness 5-pin Connector as follows I'll call this H1.

H1=Black to good ground = yes
H2=Brown to Siren = yes works
H3=red to 12 volt source white wire ignition switch white plug pin 1
H4=Orange not connected
H5=white to parking lights to green driver's kick panel works..


Auxiliary/shutdown/trigger Harness H2 as follows. .

H13=BLACK/ white* to one side to toggle switch or side to ground and on.
H20=brown to the brake pedal switch GREEN / WHITE above pedal
H9=Gray Hood pin switch not hooked up yet
H12=Violet/White tachometer not hooked up.

Remote Start, 10 pin harness H3 ...

H1= no connection N/C
H2=RED / Black to 12 volts white wire at ignition white plug pin 1.
H3=Pink/Black not connected N/C
H4=Pink/white to 2nd ignition wire BLACK / YELLOW white plug pin 2.
H5=Red to 12 volt source white wire ignition switch white plug pin 1.
H6=Green to starter input key side of cut wire to red wire white plug pin 4.
H7=Violet to starter output car side of cut wire to red wire.
H8=Orange to accessory to Blue/Red wire white plug pin 3.
H9=RED / White to 1q volt source white wire white plug pin 1.
H10-Pink ignition one input/output to BLACK/ white White plug pin 6.

Now for the flashlogic module connections. ..

Using the D2D cable and programed correct to the car 2008 toyota corolla. Automatic

Pink wire to ignition input with main harness Pink wire.
WHITE/ black wire key sense to blue/black on car key switch black plug pin 2.
White wire to ground.
GREEN/ Red = code on the car Blue wire at transponder.
Gray/Red = TXCT to car wire green wire at transponder.

And that's pretty much it for what I hooked up other than the door harness wires that work the lock fine.    

Thankyou for taking the time for
looking at this for me you must have put a few of these in.











Posted By: mscguy
Date Posted: January 29, 2016 at 1:31 PM
I remember you saying you didn't sand your ground connection down to metal. You should do that. You want you ring connector to contact the ground, not go through the screw threads. Bad ground can cause lots of weird problems because the unit will try to find a ground through another wire.

Did you check your starter output voltage from the viper? You said it was part of trouble shooting, but you weren't sure if you did.

Ground your hood pin wire and try a remote start. See if your parking lights flash 5 times.

Do your shutdown diagnostic procedure and see if it reports anything.




Posted By: harv63
Date Posted: January 31, 2016 at 2:22 PM
Hi again I'm back in the corrolla today . I sanded the ground down to bare metal and used a ring connection for the ground.

I tried to remote start car no luck nor any voltage at the violet wire into starter while trying to start no voltage. There is power coming into the unit but none going out when doing remote start.

I did ground the gray hood pin wire and parking light's did not flash nor did even try to remote start. But I removed it and did the shutdown diagnotics and hit the controller button and it flashed back 5 times on the blue led on command button and it states 5 flashes is hood shut down and that's correct..

Hope you have a few more thoughts.

I did manage to contact the vendor I bought the unit from and they are going to do a exchange for a brand new unit I'm sending this one back i I hope it's not a waste of time .







Posted By: harv63
Date Posted: January 31, 2016 at 3:10 PM
I wanted to let you know I found the tach wire at the ECM behind the glove box on the far left White plug 31 pin plug hooked up the violet/white wire to the black wire on pin 5.

I did a remote start no luck same results. Now the blue control button flashes 3 times thats a no tach error no rpm or low .




Posted By: mscguy
Date Posted: January 31, 2016 at 3:33 PM
Did you do a tach learn?




Posted By: harv63
Date Posted: January 31, 2016 at 3:43 PM
Yes did it a 2nd time just now and it did learn according to the control button solid blue light then went off after I let it go it still flashing 3 times . I did step by step on learning tach not sure what's up?




Posted By: mscguy
Date Posted: January 31, 2016 at 6:07 PM
If you vendor is willing to swap boxes, I suggest doing that. All your wiring looks ok so I'm running out of ideas. having a bad unit isn't common but it does happen.




Posted By: harv63
Date Posted: January 31, 2016 at 7:09 PM
I really appreciate your help I'm sending in the unit tonight for an exchange hopefully this will solve the problem you will be the first to know if I get it working talk to you in a week or so . Cheers friend!




Posted By: harv63
Date Posted: February 01, 2016 at 10:18 AM
I was thinking about one wire on the 24 pin harness the WHITE/ blue wire H11 do you think this needs to be hooked into the idatalink bypas module in order for the remote start to work? It claims to be remote start activation input. It has two ** next to the connection in the manual. Just want to be sure I think its the manual input to change features in the alarm by pulsing it to ground but it reads this wire not only activates remote start but also can change features thats where im confused hope you can shed some wisdom on this. Thanks again.




Posted By: mscguy
Date Posted: February 01, 2016 at 10:33 AM
No. You don't need that wire. If you were wiring a starter to use a factory key fob and to start with 3x lock, then you would use it. Or any other unit that would be used to activate the starter instead of the viper fob.




Posted By: harv63
Date Posted: February 01, 2016 at 10:41 AM
Great thanks much understand now.




Posted By: harv63
Date Posted: February 12, 2016 at 8:33 PM
Hello there I'm back I just finished the install on the alarm/remote start with the new module from directed and it works perfect just as you said it should. I sure am relieved that was the problem but having you confirm my install was reassuring I want to say thank you for helping me it was a pleasure, its nice to know people like you are out there take care.

Andy.





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