Print Page | Close Window

DBALL 2 Brake shutdown in D2D

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=140956
Printed Date: April 18, 2024 at 6:05 PM


Topic: DBALL 2 Brake shutdown in D2D

Posted By: cneubert42
Subject: DBALL 2 Brake shutdown in D2D
Date Posted: March 03, 2016 at 1:09 PM

So I installed a 4105V with a DBALL 2 in an 08 Tacoma and most of the time the system worked fine, however on occasion the system would shut down early (sometimes in the first few minutes without restarting) Diagnostics told me the shutdown was because of the foot brake being pressed but it was not. I metered the brake wire and it shut down again and no voltage displayed on my meter making me think maybe the unit is bad (doubt it but what else could it be) Today I swapped the unit and on the first start it shut down again for brake input. then I realize that the DBALL2 has the capabilities of monitoring foot brake in some vehicles and even though this isn't one of them maybe that is where my problem is (I did wire it in D2D) I rewired it in W2W mode and tested the start about 25 times with no issue (here's to hoping it is fixed) so my question is has anyone ever experienced this? I know alot of you don't like the D2D method, is this the type of issues that cause you guys not to like it? what other issues have you guys experienced with D2D?



Replies:

Posted By: beegbie
Date Posted: March 03, 2016 at 5:18 PM
Very strange but not impossible. I love the db-all2 for many applications in newer cars. However, on older cars I don't trust them. When firmwares come out there are many updates for different issues and applications. After a little while, the firmwares become reliable. You have two factors against you. One is that the db-all2 didn't exist in 2008 and secondly it's not the most efficient choice for your model (a transponder only bypass would do the same for cheaper). This means there are probably not many people installing this combination of products in a 2008 Tacoma so there may be bugs that aren't reported/fixed.





Posted By: beegbie
Date Posted: March 03, 2016 at 5:25 PM
Other dbi issues? Where should I start. Back when it first came out, it was useless. Most of the time the gwr would come on too late (after the ignition turned on) and immobilizer bypass would fail. Over the years it's gotten much better but there are still issues. Just google "directed tb-118" and read the first result. This one caused hundreds of cars to come back for us and they are still coming back to this day.




Posted By: tacoma1588
Date Posted: March 03, 2016 at 6:50 PM
My 4105v seems to blame the brake shutdown wire alot as well. Make sure your brake wire is really secured.




Posted By: dasbogie
Date Posted: March 03, 2016 at 8:11 PM
I have seen this behavior with dball2 on some Toyotas/Chryslers. I usually end up just turning off d2d brake on dbal2 and hardwiring to vehicle. Especially in a suspect Chryslers, the WHITE/ tan vehicle brake wire isn't far from where I secure the brainbox anyway. Side note: I have also seen this behavior with idatalinks al-ca/blade modules. Something else to consider is tach. If you haven't hard wired tach, I would recommend it. That could also be your situation.

-------------
Advanced




Posted By: navyrunner
Date Posted: April 14, 2016 at 1:39 AM
First post here but these forums have been an awesome source of valuable knowledge for me.

Cneubert42-
I know it's been over a month and you probably have it figured out by now but I had the same problem in my '05 4Runner. I installed a Viper 5706v and the Dball2 bypass module. Everything worked fine except that when I would use the remote start, the truck would run for approx 30 seconds and then shutdown. The shutdown troubleshooting diagnosis said it the brake pedal shut it down (5 flashes of the parking lights) even though I hadn't touched it. I searched the Internet for "brake wire shutdown remote start" etc... but came up with nothing. I called a few install shops and the general concensus was that it was the tach (I have it hardwired) causing the shutdown even though the shutdown diagnosis said it was the brake. The odd thing was that if I tried the remote start again immediately after it shutdown the first time, it would stay running for the whole 12 minutes without issue. Anyway long story short it turned out to be the Dball2. I have it connected D2D and when you flash it on the computer, it defaults to having the bypass module filter all of the shutdowns. I flashed the Dball2 again and unchecked those 6 or 7 shutdown features and it works perfectly now. Again you're probably good to go now but I hope this helps someone else! Thanks to everyone who shares their lessons learned and knowledge and sorry for the long post!




Posted By: tacoma1588
Date Posted: April 14, 2016 at 7:10 AM
That's awesome to know. I switched to tach sensing and it worked fine a couple of times, and then I started having issues where it would keep cranking and not turn over. Virtual tach and voltage stall the truck while cranking, sometimes it works. I then switched the sensing to off, so it doesn't detect anything. Now it cranks over. Out of prolly 30 uses it didn't crank over 2 times. I chalk it up to the programming of the dball not communicating correctly to my trucks immobilizer system that's causing my issues between virtual tach, tach, and voltage sensing.




Posted By: cneubert42
Date Posted: April 14, 2016 at 10:34 AM
Just to update it was the DBall, I switched from d2d to w2w and all is good now. Thanks everyone!





Print Page | Close Window