Avital 4103LX RS in 2002 Camry

I'm working on installing a Avital 4103LX into my 2002 Toyota Camry i4. My Camry does have the Toyota VIP security system installed.

I think I have everything hooked up correctly according to the wiring information I found here and a couple other websites, but it isn't starting using the RS.
I've tried disconnecting the VIP security harness and it still doesn't start.
The lock/unlock functions are working fine. I don't hear the horn honk or see the parking lights flash at all though. It starts fine using the key still.

Here is how I have everything wired (things I'm not sure about in bold):

Door Lock Harness (3pin):
blue(unlock)----------------------------blue(driver's kick panel)
green(lock)-----------------------------blue / YELLOW(driver's kick panel)

Satellite (4pin):
blue(status output)---------------------blue keysense wire in ign harness
orange(acc output)----------------------not connected
purple(starter output)------------------to second starter relay (85)
pink(ign output)------------------------not connected

Remote Start (6 pin):
red(+12v)-------------------------------WHITE/ red (30A-ign)
pink/white(output to sec ign/acc)-------BLACK / YELLOW(ign)
red(+12v)-------------------------------WHITE/ red (30A-ign)
orange(out acc circuit)-----------------blue/red (ign)
purple(out start circuit)---------------BLACK/ white (ign)
pink(out primary ign circuit)-----------BLACK/ red(ign)

Remote Start Harness (5 pin):
BLACK/ white(neutral safety switch)------not connected
violet/white(tach input)----------------BLACK/ orange at ODB2 port
brown(brake shutdown input)-------------GREEN / WHITE at brake switch
gray(hood pin switch)-------------------ran to new installed hood pin that came with RS
blue/white(2nd status/rear defogger-----YELLOW /GREEN defrost wire (right of fusebox or in driver's kick panel)

Main Harness (9 pin):
lt GREEN/ black(factory alarm disarm)----blue (same as unlock)
GREEN / WHITE(factory alarm rearm)--------blue / YELLOW(same as lock)
yellow(ign out to alarm)----------------not connected (Do I used the RED / black in driver kick panel like this says?: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=448)
WHITE/ blue(activation input)------------12v
orange(ground when locked/anti grind)---not connected
RED / white(trunk release out)------------to trunk release relay (using blue/white in driver's kick panel)
black (ground)--------------------------ground
white(light flash output)---------------green (parking light in switch)

Second starter relay:
85----purple (starter output in satellite harness)
86----ground
87a---not connected
87----BLACK / YELLOW(starter 2)
30----12v fused to WHITE/ red(ign)

I followed the directions to teach it my tach before I tried starting it, but no luck.

Do I have something wired wrong or have I missed something?
Thanks in advance!

Make sure you test a the wires you hook up with a voltmeter. There are 2 lack / YELLOW wires in the Ignition connector--Make sure you have the correct ones.

1.) Satellite harness puts out negative (grounded) signals. You need to connect pin 86 of your second start relay to fused power (+12V).

2.)Remote start harness Neutral Safety Switch Wire needs to be grounded for the remote starter to work.

3.)Main Harness--Yellow & Blue/White should not be connected.

Also Make sure you have the Parking light Jumper in the - position for negative parking lights.

I believe you need to configure defrost for latched operation.

You will need to learn tach before starting.


After you complete the wiring changes, post back how the RS operates when you try to start.



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Lectric Guy

I tested connecting the yellow (ign out to alarm) to the RED / black wire (which I should note is actually on the left side of the fuse box, not in kick panel) and still no luck.

I also see tach at the under the hood, or next to the steering column. Maybe this is also at OBD...but if the RS does not learn, here are the alternates:

Tachometer is BLACK/ orange ac signal, right of steering column, gray 22 pin plug, pin 16.

or

Tach on the 4-Cylinder engine the BLACK wire is in a GRAY CONNECTOR located on the COIL, drivers side of the engine, on the V-6 use the GRAY wire located at the IGNITOR, located just in FRONT of the STRUT TOWER.


I also see Parking lights at the switch as red (-) headlight switch, white 17 pin plug, pin 14

or Green (+)At the dash fuse box, white 20 pin plug (2K), pin 19.


Not sure what green at the switch is...Please test first.




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Lectric Guy

Thanks lectricguy!

I did all 3 of those things and now it starts up!

I still think something is out of wack though.
The black box of the RS light is constantly blinking, and when I try to follow the programming instructions, it seems like it never enters the menus and stays in this blinking mode.

Also, after I start it with the remote start, then I hit the brake pedal, it keeps running (which I don't expect...I expect it to shutdown).

Lastly, I remote start the car, then I put the key in and then take it out (brake pedal depressed) as though I'm turning the car off, the motor stays running. Would this be because it's still in it's timed run mode?

Car should always shut off with Brake depressed and key out.

RS should shut down with Key in and in the on(Run) position and car will remain running on its own, allowing you to drive off (Called takeover).

Did you check your connection at the brake switch? RS H2-3 brown brake input needs to see +12V when the brake is pressed.

Curious, you don't list the brown horn wire. Make sure you did not mix them up...


Anytime the RS is locked, led on the module flashes. Press unlock on the FOB and LED should not blink. The RS should be unlocked to program the features also.

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Lectric Guy

Looks like I forgot to list the brown horn wire in my first post. I have that going to a GREEN/ black wire.

I double checked both of the brown wires. I have the brown from the 5pin harness going to the brake switch(GREEN / WHITE wire) and the brown from the 9pin harness going to the horn (GREEN/ black).
I checked my connection on the brake switch...it was bad. Fixed that and now it's working!

Thanks for clarifying on the flashes...I was able to get into the menus and make some programming adjustments (selected reading the tach for remote start and switched second status behavior to rear defogger). I didn't change anything else since everything else looks alright.

I'm betting since I'm not hearing the horn I have a bad connection there too, so I'm going to double check that as well.

Thanks for all the help!

I have horn as GREEN/ black, horn switch or dash fuse box, white 24 pin plug (2G), pin 22.

You need to turn the horn function on in the menu 1 settings. Default is off. Try 30mS.


Glad to help...Cheers!

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Lectric Guy

Alright, I have everything working at this point as far as remote starting goes. Brake shutdown, horn, tach, starting, etc.

I just tried hooking up the trunk pop, but it's not working.
I used the negative trunk pop relay circuit described here.

I swapped the relay with another one and it does the same thing so I'm fairly certain it isn't a relay problem. The stock fob still pops the trunk...I'd like to remove the need to carry the stock fob. Any suggestions?

What wire are you trying to use? The trunk release (if your Camry has a power trunk release), is a WHITE/ blue wire in the drivers kick or the wire bundle going to the rear of the car under the drivers sill.   You need to find and test that the wire--it measures +12 volts when you press the power trunk release. Once you confirm that you have the right wire, cut the wire and use the first (negative trigger) diagram. You need your relay to send 12 volts to the cars trunk motor to open it.

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Lectric Guy

I'm using the WHITE/ blue wire in the driver's kick panel.
I tested it and it does show +12v when I hold the trunk button on the stock remote.

I also probed it when I pressed the trunk release on the new avital remote and don't see anything happen.
The power wire I tapped also shows +12v so I'm not sure what else I need to test.

I have everything wired according to the negative trigger diagram and nothing happens with this relay. I hear other things clicking inside though like it's disarming the security first.

Sounds like you have the correct wire. The Avital sends a disarm pulse with trunk signal, so that sounds correct.   Do you hear the trunk relay click when you press the Avital trunk button? Double check that the relay coil (85, 86) is getting 12 volts, and the connection to Avital RED / white is good. If the relay is closing with the trunk pulse, check the wiring to the relay contacts (30, 87a, 87)--make sure 87 and 30 are not reversed....post back with your findings. Your really close.

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Lectric Guy

I don't hear the relay click when I press and hold the trunk button.

I checked some of the relay pins and found the following:
-87 & 86 both have 12v power (as expected by wiring diagram)
-85 has 12v power before I press the trunk release (not sure if this is expected or not)
-30 gets 12v when stock fob trunk release is pressed, but not when avital trunk release is pressed

There is a diode on the relay harness connecting 85 and 86; the line is on the 85 side. I think that's supposed to be there.

I tried measuring the current draw when pressing the avital trunk release button on 85, but couldn't get anything.
I swapped in a bad fuse that lights up on 86/87 side and I see that light up when the avital trunk release button gets pressed like something is trying to draw current, but I can't seem to get a current reading on 85.

The diode needs to have the band to 12v source. Reverse the connections on 85 & 86.




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Lectric Guy

I reversed those connections and still nothing :(
I tried a different relay after swapping those connections and still nothing.
The voltages on the different pins looked the same as last time too. Haven't tried for a current reading yet.

Well I just removed the diode entirely from the relay harness and now it's working!

vonericsen wrote:

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Well I just removed the diode entirely from the relay harness and now it's working!

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Good. You really lucked out that your trunk pop still works.

A similar problem a while back happened to a guy who fried his ignition (or acc circuit, I can't remember) on his starter by shorting a relay with a diode.

I'll explain.

Wiring the relay the way you had it, with the diode being already installed in the direction it was, meant the relay coil was shorting across, and not activating the relay. You had +12vdc fused at 10A going directly into your small -200ma trunk release wire. Obviously your remote starter has some built in resistance in that circuit, otherwise it probably would have fried the trunk pop circuit.

I know I lucked out on this.
This relay was in the car from a long gone KARR security system so I was just going to reuse it for this trunk pop.
I didn't think anything of the diode when I first took the harness apart to figure out the wire colors and pins they connected to and wrapped it back up.
While testing according to lectricguy's help, I pulled the wrapping off again and saw it and that got me thinking it may be the problem.
I was beginning to think that the trunk pop got fried at some point as I was doing all this testing.
Then I decided to pull it thinking maybe it was preventing the coil from energizing enough to flip the relay.
I'm ready to tuck all this away behind the dash and hopefully not touch it again.

Still trying to decide if I want to install one of these on my Jeep too.

I've certainly learned a lot on this install.
Couldn't have done it without the knowledge on this site and it's helpful members! So just wanted to say thanks again!