i am working with a 2005 ford f-150 i have installed the viper system and it all works as per expectations i followed the install instructions for the DBALL2 mod and when i plug in the harnesses in the order specified as per the mod instructions for a ford type 2a i get no light i have verified the connections 4 times i have power going to it i have 12-v.dc coming from the viper through the D2D the question i have is the install instructions for the DBALL2 do i have to make all those connections while using the D2D or do i need to disconnect some wires on the viper or the bypass mod very confused about the wiring on the bypass mod
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Matt
Hi Matt,
If you are going with D2D comm between the Viper and the DB-ALL2, just plug in the D2D harness between the
Viper and the DB-ALL2. It will make all the dashed Blue line connections for you. You will still have the hardwire
the connections shown in solid Black lines ( Ignition and RAP ). Below are the PATS wires :
TX RX
F-150 04-08 Pin 3 WHITE/ LtGreen Pin 4 Gray/Orange
Are you sure the DB-ALL2 is flashed with the 402.FORD1 Ver 3.13 firmware?
You could try a DB-ALL2 module Reset or Hard Reset shown on Page 17 of the install guide.
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Soldering is fun!
OK all the connections for the dball2 I have made as follows I connected the TX,RX ,ignition, 12.vdc +- ,rap off door trigger (yellow/red), status wire from the viper to the gwr input on the dball2 (from all the research I've done the gwr wire and the status wire are one of the same) and then I took the rap off wire (BROWN / red on dball2) and connected it to the ground between the chassis of the truck and the viper (also for my reference what is RAP wire good for and what does it stand for ). Do I need to disconnect any of those wires that I just listed and would I need to disconnect any of the wires from the viper system
Also question is it required to flash the dball2 unit prior to install I did not flash it I just connected wired pluged in 10pin,12pin,14pin and the D2D as per instructions no lights ever came on after I pluged in unit
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Matt
I failed to state that I did attempt the hard reset on the dball2 i still had no lights light up on the unit
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Matt
The DB-ALL2 bypass module is designed to have the flexibility to support a wide range of vehicles. It does this via the actual
application firmware flashed on to the module by the professional installer prior to use. I am not sure what, if any firmware is
loaded at the factory. This flash requires the use of the XKLoader2 cable and a PC with internet access. For your 2005 F150
application, you need the 402.FORD1 v3.13 firmware and 2 working, non-clone keys for vehicle programming.
From your wiring, it appears that you hardwired the connections between the Viper and the DB-ALL2, called W2W mode, correctly.
Using the supplied 4 Pin D2D harness ( D2D mode ) would have handled the dashed Blue wires shown in the Type 2a diagram.
RAP stands for Retained Accessory Power. The RAP connections simulate a door being opened and closed to quickly shut down
this vehicle feature to prevent battery drain. And yes, Ground When Running is known as GWR, Status Output and (-) 3rd Ignition,
depending on the manufacturer.
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Soldering is fun!
ahh well then ill tell you how my luck is i bought the bitwriter 998t thinking that the W2W was enabled by default in the viper and i needed that tool to change that setting to D2D so now i have a tool that i don't know why i would ever use now LOL
ill keep ya posted on the flash and if i get led activity afterwords
can i ask you a quick couple of questions while i bought the bitwriter i also bought a window mod 529t and a 508d dual zone
Q1 what wire would i connect to the window mod from the viper system to make the window mod operate via the remote
Q2 with the shock sensor i had an additional wire on the sensor harness it was green after completing some research i found that it allows me to connect this 508d to it now after going through school if i learned anything i learned that 1 green wire is less then 3 other wires on the 508d harness so i will have to cut at least two of them i just don't know what ones i need to cut to connect this sensor to the green wire left over from the shock sensor
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Matt