door lock connections

Hey guys,

I'm new to remote start installs. I know I can take it to a pro but they're all bad around my place and I thought I'd learn something new.

I have a 2010 Rav4 with factory alarm and an Avital 5303.

I'm very confused on what to do with the blue and green door lock/unlock harness and the H2-6 pin connector H2/4 and H2/6, which are the factory arm and disarm.

Can someone please help, and if it's possible can you guys dumb it down a little please. Lol thank you, guys.

Here is the needed wiring for the locks :

1  LIGHT BLUE  (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT (+) LOCK  --->    Pink (driver door key unlock)  double -      @ driver kick, white 12 pin plug, pin 9
3  GREEN  (-) LOCK (+) UNLOCK OUTPUT --->    Blue (driver door key lock)  -     @ driver kick, white 12 pin plug, pin 4

Additional info :
1.  You must program the Avital 5303 for a Double Pulse Unlock Output.  See Menu 2, Item 7, 2 Chirp setting.
2.  You should insert a 1N4001 diode inline on each of the Avital's lock wire with the band towards the Avital 5303.

This will take care of both the locks and the Factory alarm, so no need to connect the Avitals' Alarm Arm and Disarm wires.

Now for the Avital R/S portion.  The Factory Alarm will go off with a remote start ( if the alarm was set ).  To prevent this from happening
you should connect the Avitals' H3/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER wire to the RAV4's Keysense wire.
Keysense    Blue (-)     @ key switch or dash fuse box, white 32 pin plug (IE), pin 26 
Avital default programming is correct.  I am assuming that you are not using this wire for it's programmable Defrost control function.

Does the RAV4 have a transponder system ( chipped keys )?  Do you have a bypass module?

It might be a good idea to list all of your wiring, so the forum members can assist prior to install.

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Soldering is fun!

Umm yeah I think it has a a chip so I have a bypass module (it's an O key). I pretty much connected everything when it comes to the main harness, remote start harness, relay satellite, etc. I wad just stuck on the freaking door. When I opened up the system I found a DEI Auto-Mate alarm system installed by the dealer.

The entire time I was sitting there trying to figure out the 6 pin connecter and the 3 pin door lock and now it looks so much easier.

And no I didn't connect anything to the rear defogger so I'll connect the keysense wire to it.

Oh another question I have is what do I do for the second starter? The RS relay satellite doesn't come with a second starter wire. Do I use a relay to connect it to the main starter wire?

Thank you so much though, it means a lot. I really appreciate it.

These are all my car connections-

12 VOLT CONSTANT WHITE ( + ) FUSEBOX @ DASH, PIN 1, WHITE 1-PIN PLUG (G)    
STARTER YELLOW ( + ) @ IGNITION SWITCH, PIN 8, WHITE 8-PIN PLUG    
STARTER 2 WHITE ( + ) @ IGNITION SWITCH, PIN 1, WHITE 8-PIN PLUG    
IGNITION 1 WHITE ( + ) @ IGNITION SWITCH, PIN 6, WHITE 8-PIN PLUG    
IGNITION 2 PINK ( + ) @ IGNITION SWITCH, PIN 4, WHITE 8-PIN PLUG    
IGNITION 3 N/A     
ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1 RED (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, PIN 3, WHITE 8-PIN PLUG    
ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 2 N/A     
KEYSENSE BLUE ( - ) @IGNITION SWITCH TUMBLER or FUSEBOX,PIN 26, WHITE 32-PIN PLUG    
PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) WHITE ( - ) @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH, PIN 18, WHITE 20-PIN PLUG    
PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) GREEN ( + ) @ FUSEBOX, PIN 10, WHITE 30-PIN PLUG    
POWER LOCK BLUE (-) TYPE B, SEE NOTE #2 @ DRIVERS KICK, PIN 4 ,WHITE 12-PIN PLUG    
POWER UNLOCK PINK (-) TYPE B (DOUBLE PULSE) @ DRIVERS KICK, PIN 9, WHITE 12-PIN PLUG    
LOCK MOTOR WIRE RED ( 5-WIRE TYPE ) @ DRIVERS KICK, PIN 6, WHITE 12-PIN PLUG    
DOOR TRIGGER WHITE ( - ) @ FUSEBOX, PIN 2, WHITE 6-PIN PLUG    
DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION WHITE ( - ) @ FUSEBOX , PIN 2, WHITE 6-PIN PLUG (K)    
TRUNK RELEASE N/A     
SLIDING POWER DOOR N/A     
HORN LT. GREEN ( - ) @ FUSEBOX , PIN 25, WHITE 32-PIN PLUG    
TACH GRAY (AC) @ DATA CONNECTOR PIN 9, WHITE 32-PIN PLUG    
WAIT TO START LIGHT N/A     
BRAKE BLUE ( + ) @ BRAKE PEDAL SWITCH or FUSEBOX, PIN 9, WHITE 30-PIN PLUG(A)    
FACTORY ALARM DISARM SAME AS UNLOCK WIRE ( - )     
ANTI-THEFT TOYOTA'S TRANSPONDER ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM, See NOTE #1 @ IGNITION SWITCH TUMBLER

Heavy gauge relay satellite wiring diagram
H/1 PURPLE STARTER OUTPUT (STARTER SIDE)   yellow  +  ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 8       cut wire
H/2 GREEN STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE)       yellow  +  ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 8       cut wire
H/3 RED (+) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT         blue (30A) +   ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7
H/4 ORANGE ACCESSORY CIRCUIT red  +  ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 3
H/5 PINK OUTPUT  IGNITION CIRCUIT white  +  ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 6
H/6 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT blue (30A) +   ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7
H/7 PINK/WHITE  SECOND IGNITION CIRCUIT          pink  +  ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 4
H/8 RED / WHITE (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V          blue (30A) +   ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7

To properly power the car's Second Starter wire ( Second Starter  White  +  ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 1 ) you will need a 30/40
Amp SPDT relay with harness, an inline fuse holder and a 7.5 Amp fuse.  Wire as follows :
Relay Pin 85 to Avital Remote start ribbon harness, Pin 5  PURPLE  (-) 200mA STARTER RELAY TURN ON
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to Lt Green @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 2 through 7.5 Amp fuse
Relay Pin 30 to White (+) @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 1

Relay Pin 87a not used.

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Soldering is fun!

Okay got it.

I also connected the H4/2 (-) 200mA Horn brown wire to my vehicle's horn wire without a relay because I thought that the signal is going to be pretty weak. Should I cut it out and add a relay?

Thank you again.

Shouldn't need a relay for the (-) Horn connection.

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Soldering is fun!

Okay, and one last thing-

All my door triggers were separate in the fusebox., So what I did was solder a wire to my H1/8 (-) door trigger input to elongate it. Then I soldered each door trigger to that wire. I also inserted a diode on each wire with the band towards the car and away from the RS.

Do you think that's correct?

Yes on the Door Trigger wires.  A 1N4001 diode on each, band towards the car, all joined together at H1/8.

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Soldering is fun!

Hi, I dots everything but my car isn't starting. It cranks and quits but nothing else. It doesn't actually start. Please help :(

Bypass module?  Which one?  Did it program OK?

Try a R/S with a working key inserted but not turned.

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Soldering is fun!

No nothing, the car would crank but not start all the way. Even if I put my key in and try to start it out gives me the same problem.

And I'm using a DBALL2, I followed all the instructions it came with.

Okay so it remote starts sometimes, I can't really figure out exactly when. Even my key works sometimes and sometimes it doesn't.

That could change everything.  We might have to start over.  The DB-ALL2 can do a lot more that just handle the transponder bypass.

Does your ignition key have a G stamped on the blade?

What firmware is the DB-ALL2 flashed with?  TL1 or TL2?

Are you going D2D or W2W between the R/S and the DB-ALL2?

Did the DB-ALL2 program properly in accordance with the steps listed in the install guide?

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Soldering is fun!

jason556 wrote:

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Okay so it remote starts sometimes, I can't really figure out exactly when. Even my key works sometimes and sometimes it doesn't.

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That shouldn't happen.  Adding a R/S should not change the normal key start-up.

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Soldering is fun!

No its an O key. Sorry I'm being a hassle.

I'm not sure why the car didn't crank when I first put the key in. Now every time I keep the key in it starts fine. When I take my key out it gives me problems.

I'm doing W2w and the lights did flash like the install menu said it would.

And honestly the firmware I got from the company I got it from on ebay. They said they'll flash the firmware for my car.

OK.  Here we go.  You have a 2010 RAV4 with the Factory Alarm system and the 40 Bit transponder system ( non-G key ).
You are installing an Avital 5303 with a DB-ALL2 flashed with the 402.TL1 firmware.  The latest Version is Ver 3.19 using the
DB-ALL2 w/TL1 install guide Rev: 20160106. 

Here is how you proceed.  On Page 3 of the TL1 install guide is a chart.  This chart gives you two important pieces of info.
First is the Install Diagram Type to follow.  For your RAV4 you will use the Type 1 wiring.  The second piece of info is a list of
the supported functions.  Basically, the DB-ALL2 will handle everything shown except the rear hatch.

Next we go to the Type 1 wiring diagram and the supporting pages with the wire colors and locations.  But first we have a big
decission to make.  D2D or W2W?  Your Avital 5303 can go DBI D2D with the DB-ALL2.  This will make the install easier but
there could be some complications.  An experienced Avital / Directed installer will know these complications.  I am not a Avital
or DB-ALL2 user but have heard mention of some of the possible issues.  If you go W2W, you should have no issues.  If you
go D2D, there could be problems with getting the DB-ALL2's Tach and Brake signal to the Avital. 

Of course at this point we have made a few mistakes.  The DB-ALL2 will handle the RAV4's locks and alarm for you but you
asked for and probably made direct connections from the 5303 to the vehicle.  These connections are not necessary because
the DB-ALL2 will handle them for you via its' connection to the RAV4's CAN Bus system.

So, back to the D2D or W2W choice you need to make.   In W2W mode you will make hardwire connections between the 5303
and the DB-ALL2.  That would be all the dashed Blue wires.  The 4 Pin D2D harness would not be used.  In D2D mode, you
would connect the 4 Pin D2D harness and it would handle all the dashed Blue connections for you ( with the possible exception
of the Tach and Brake signals ).  Either way, there are some wire connections that must be made between the Avital and the
RAV4.  You might have these done properly.  The main ignition wires were previously listed and include the external relay for the
Starter2 circuit plus the (-) Parking Light connection and chassis ground.

Anyway, before we go any further, you need to verify exactly which firmware is loaded on the DB-ALL2.  It needs to be TL1 to
support your RAV4.  And you need to decide on W2W or D2D.

I apologize for the misleading lock / alarm info provided at the beginning of this post.  No mention was made about a bypass module,
although I did ask in my first reply.  You confirmed that you had a bypass module and I assumed that your were using a basic transponder
bypass module and not a full featured CAN bypass module because of your lock / alarm question. 

What you are finding out is that a professional installer has a bunch of knowledge and experience that justifies the installation price that
he charges.  This is not exactly plug and play simple.  There is a big learning curve involved.  While this install is very easy due to the
DB-ALL2, it requires a good deal of research to do properly.  Things like bypass module firmware, D2D vs W2W, additional relays,
etc.  In this case the DB-ALL2 Type 1 diagram gives you most of the needed wiring.  There is the bypass module programming and
some programming and learning on the 5303 as well.  There is a full 5303 install guide in the downloads section that will help.

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Soldering is fun!

Oh okay, I actually connected all of the Avital wires including the door locks. I hope the door locks won't be a problem and the Avital connection serves the same purpose as the DBALL2. I connected all of the necessary wires on the bypass module. The wires that were not required in D2D I didn't connect so yeah I'm pretty much operating on data with almost no W2W.

Most of the connections to the remote start I do think I made properly. I used two relays- one for the 2nd starter and one for the domelight supervision. I did connect the parking lights and I did ground all the relays and everything else necessary.

And honestly the bypass firmware I'm not sure about because the person I bought it from flashed it for me. Do you think I should change all my bypass connections to W2W? If anything I'll try to pay someone to reflash the bypass since I don't have the loader.

Also I don't know if this will help but going through the manual I noticed that the Virtual Tach is the default setting on the RS. I didn't program the virtual tach because I thought that the RS will recognize that I made the Tach connection at the diagnostic port. I'll try to reprogram that to wired Tach,but do you think that is a problem area?

At this point, you should probably go with DBI D2D between the Avital and the DB-ALL2.  While I don't use DB-ALL2's, I have heard
they work OK.  We will assume this is correct and do the entire install as DEI, the manufacturer of your chosen modules, wants it done.

First, you should find a way to verify which firmware is loaded on your DB-ALL2.  If the EBay seller thought you have a G key vehicle,
it would be flashed with TL2 firmware.  That would be my main concern.  Being as it is kinda working, it might indeed have the TL1
firmware and it's just your duplicated control that is confusing the issue. 

Next for the wiring.  We will go for the basic, bare minimum wiring.

➤ Primary harness (H1), 12-pin connector
H1/1 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT   Not used.  Locks and unlocks with doors.
H1/2 RED (+) CONSTANT POWER INPUT   To suitable +12V constant power
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT   To kit supplied siren
H1/4 EMPTY NOT USED
H1/5 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND INPUT           To vehicle frame
H1/6 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 3 Not used
H1/7 BLUE (-) MULTIPLEXED INPUT, ZONE 4       Not used
H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 3   Not used. Supplied via D2D harness from DB-ALL2
H1/9 BLACK/ WHITE (-) 200mA DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION         Probably not needed.  Do the interior lights come on with an Unlock?
H1/10 WHITE/ BLUE (-) REMOTE START ACTIVATION INPUT      Not used
H1/11 WHITE (+)/(-) SELECTABLE LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT          White (-)  headlight switch, white 20 pin plug, pin 18 ** Set Avital to (-)
H1/12 ORANGE (-) 500mA ARMED OUTPUT         Not used

Auxiliary harness (H2), 6-pin connector
H2/1 LIGHT BLUE (-) SECOND UNLOCK OUTPUT   Not used
H2/2 WHITE/ BLACK (-) AUX 2 OUTPUT        Not used
H2/3 VIOLET/BLACK (-) AUX 1 OUTPUT       Not used
H2/4 GREEN / WHITE (-) FACTORY ALARM REARM Not used   Handled by DB-ALL2
H2/5 GRAY/BLACK (-) WAIT-TO-START INPUT         Not used
H2/6 LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK (-) FACTORY ALARM DISARM Not used   Handled by DB-ALL2

➤ Door lock harness, 3-pin connector
1 LIGHT BLUE (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT (+) LOCK Not used   Handled by D2D harness & DB-ALL2
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) LOCK (+) UNLOCK OUTPUT       Not used   Handled by D2D harness & DB-ALL2

➤ Remote start ribbon harness, wiring diagram
1 PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA PROGRAMMABLE IGN2/ACC2 RELAY TURN ON      Not used 
2 YELLOW (+) IGNITION INPUT TO ALARM      Not used 
3 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION RELAY TURN ON Not used 
4 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY RELAY TURN ON Not used 
5 PURPLE (-) 200mA STARTER RELAY TURN ON        to external relay Pin 85
6 ORANGE / BLACK (-) ANTIGRIND/GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT Not used 
7 BLUE (-) 200 mA STATUS OUTPUT   Not used  Handled by D2D harness

➤ Remote start harness, (H3) 5-pin connector
H3/1 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT    not needed        EBrake signal supplied by D2D harness from DB-ALL2
H3/2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE       not needed        Tach signal supplied by D2D harness from DB-ALL2
H3/3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT WIRE    not needed        Brake signal signal supplied by D2D harness from DB-ALL2
H3/4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH INPUT, ZONE 1      not needed        Hood signal signal supplied by D2D harness from DB-ALL2  ***
H3/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER Not used.
*** The DB-ALL2 will supply the Hood Status signal only if the RAV4 has the factory hood pin.

Heavy gauge relay satellite wiring diagram
H/1 PURPLE STARTER OUTPUT (STARTER SIDE)   yellow  +  ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 8       cut wire
H/2 GREEN STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE)       yellow  +  ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 8       cut wire
H/3 RED (+) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT         blue (30A) +   ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7
H/4 ORANGE ACCESSORY CIRCUIT red  +  ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 3
H/5 PINK OUTPUT  IGNITION CIRCUIT white  +  ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 6
H/6 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT blue (30A) +   ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7
H/7 PINK/WHITE  SECOND IGNITION CIRCUIT          pink  +  ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 4
H/8 RED / WHITE (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V          blue (30A) +   ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7

Starter2 relay :
Relay Pin 85 to Avital Remote start ribbon harness, Pin 5  PURPLE  (-) 200mA STARTER RELAY TURN ON
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to Lt Green @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 2 through 7.5 Amp fuse
Relay Pin 30 to White (+) @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 1

Wire connections from the DB-ALL2 to the RAV4 are shown in the Type 1 diagram in solid Black lines from the left side of the module.
Only 6 wires to connect from the DB-ALL2 plus the D2D 4 Pin harness.

As you can see, it's pretty simple.  Four wires are needed on the Avital H1 harness, none on H2, none on the 3 Pin Door Lock harness,
only one wire on the Remote Starter Ribbon harness, none on H3 and all the wires on the heavy gauge relay satellite module.

As mentioned, it is possible that the Avital can not handle the Tach and/or the Brake signals via the D2D harness.  If you can't get a
successful Tach Learn on the Avital after the DB-ALL2 has been successfully programmed to the RAV4, you can hard wire that signal to
the Avital from either the DB-ALL2 or the OBD2.  Same thing for the Brake signal.  If pressing the Brake Pedal does not shutdown the
remote started engine, hardwire that input signal to either the DB-ALL2 or the Brake Pedal switch.

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Soldering is fun!

Yeah I did most of those connections. I don't have access to a computer right now but when I do I'll give you a write up of every connection I did.

I'll post it either tonight or tomorrow if you don't mind.

Hi, sorry I'm getting back yo you so late. I've been so busy with work and school that I put this to the side.

But these are the connections I did a few weeks ago-

➤ Primary harness (H1), 12-pin connector
H1/1 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT Did not use
H1/2 RED (+) CONSTANT POWER INPUT  Constant power at ignition harness
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT     To siren
H1/4 EMPTY NOT USED
H1/5 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND INPUT To vehicle ground
H1/6 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 3     Not used
H1/7 BLUE (-) MULTIPLEXED INPUT, ZONE 4        Not used
H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 3      Connected to all door triggers using diodes
H1/9 BLACK/ WHITE (-) 200mA DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION  Used a relay, domelight supervision works just fine
H1/10 WHITE/ BLUE (-) REMOTE START ACTIVATION INPUT Not used
H1/11 WHITE (+)/(-) SELECTABLE LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT White (-) headlight switch
H1/12 ORANGE (-) 500mA ARMED OUTPUT Not used

Auxiliary harness (H2), 6-pin connector
H2/1 LIGHT BLUE (-) SECOND UNLOCK OUTPUT       I think I connected this to the keysense like you told me
H2/2 WHITE/ BLACK (-) AUX 2 OUTPUT  Did Not use
H2/3 VIOLET/BLACK (-) AUX 1 OUTPUT Did Not use
H2/4 GREEN / WHITE (-) FACTORY ALARM REARM       Did Not use
H2/5 GRAY/BLACK (-) WAIT-TO-START INPUT        Did Not use
H2/6 LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK (-) FACTORY ALARM DISARMDid Not use

➤ Door lock harness, 3-pin connector
1 LIGHT BLUE (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT (+) LOCK Connected to door trigger harness behind kickpanel
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) LOCK (+) UNLOCK OUTPUT       Connected to door trigger harness behind kickpanel

➤ Remote start ribbon harness, wiring diagram
1 PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA PROGRAMMABLE IGN2/ACC2 RELAY TURN ON        Not used
2 YELLOW (+) IGNITION INPUT TO ALARM Not used
3 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION RELAY TURN ON  Not used
4 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY RELAY TURN ON  Not used
5 PURPLE (-) 200mA STARTER RELAY TURN ON to external relay Pin 85
6 ORANGE / BLACK (-) ANTIGRIND/GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT Not used
7 BLUE (-) 200 mA STATUS OUTPUT        Not used Handled by D2D harness

➤ Remote start harness, (H3) 5-pin connector
H3/1 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT      connected to ground
H3/2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIREconnected to OBD2 tach input
H3/3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT WIRE  connected to brake switch harness
H3/4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH INPUT, ZONE 1 not used
H3/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER   Not used.
*** The DB-ALL2 will supply the Hood Status signal only if the RAV4 has the factory hood pin.

Heavy gauge relay satellite wiring diagram
H/1 PURPLE STARTER OUTPUT (STARTER SIDE)   yellow + ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 8       cut wire
H/2 GREEN STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE)    yellow + ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 8       cut wire
H/3 RED (+) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT      blue (30A) +   ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7
H/4 ORANGE ACCESSORY CIRCUIT red + ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 3
H/5 PINK OUTPUT IGNITION CIRCUIT        white + ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 6
H/6 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT  blue (30A) +   ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7
H/7 PINK/WHITE SECOND IGNITION CIRCUIT pink + ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 4
H/8 RED / WHITE (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V blue (30A) +   ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7