Printer Friendly Forum Posts - Clifford Alarm Stopped Unlocking Door?

I don't know the model of the alarm offhand, but it has a large keyfob that has an LCD screen with the vehicle and gives visual representation of locked or unlocked or triggered alarms. Anyway, not long ago, one day, it just stopped 'unlocking' the truck doors. The alarm disarms. The door lock button works fine. It locks the doors when you arm the vehicle just fine. Is there something I can check specifically or is the unit just dead? 2005 F250 Lariat 4x4.

Oh, I should add that the factory keyless remote locks and unlocks without any issue, so it seems to be related purely to the alarm brain somehow. Both alarm keyfobs arm and disarm the truck, but upon disarm, the locks do not pop up.

Check the plug for the door lock/unlock at the brain and also check the connection to the vehicle door unlock wiring. which is the blue wire of the blue and green wires from the brain. If those check good DMM on continuity to the blue wire at the plug and to ground and unlock from both the remote and the vehicle switch to make sure the wire is sending (-)unlock pulse and isn't broken going to vehicle and the vehicle is connected to brain.

Thank you!

I disconnected the unlock harness from the brain and tested continuity on the harness. I only have continuity to ground on teh two purple wires. Is that good? How do I test the other things?

I also checked the voltage with my DMM from ground to the blue wire and the green wire on the harness while disconnected. Both have a small voltage that 'bumps' when you unlock or lock the doors. I dont know what that voltage is because its too fast. However, I disconnected the plug from the back of my door luck button, and one of those wires DOES give continuity with teh blue wire, so the wire is connected to the truck anyway.

OK, so I can get continuity with ground and the blue wire when I unlock the car with the door button. I do not get any continuity with ground on the blue wire when using the remote to disarm the car.

What does this mean>?

If the alarm is not outputting a (-)pulse on the blue wire or the corresponding pin of the alarm then it is internal fault with the alarm for the internal unlock relay. Your choices depending on where you got it and if it has a warranty will decide whether you replace it under warranty or try to fix it your self by repairing it yourself or replacing the brain yourself.

Is there a current 'brain' I can get that is compatible with my Matrix 10.5x that would basically swap without having to do much in terms of 'rewiring'?

If you don't care what brand name is on the brain you can cross any DEI brand that is the same generation like viper 5000 python 900 that uses the same remote(904100) to start with. Use this list to cross models that use the same remotes.Transcross

I have a 489x remote. Unfortunately, for 2 way remotes, this Matrix 10.x is the ONLY alarm that uses it. :/

No the viper and the python both use it too the letter at the end is the brand designation 489x is Clifford, 489p is Python and, 489v is Viper, exact same remote internals different plastic case. In any given generation the brain is the same for a 1 way as it is for a 2 way alarm different antenna for the 2 way function. you can add 2 way function to a 1 way by switching to a 2 way antenna. you system has the 451m door lock relay module internally as the newer brains don't and either come with the 451m in the box or you have to buy it separate. DEI makes several brands and they all use the same wire color and function. They only change plug type, count and wire count in the plugs. certain never models have the DBALL built into the brain now.

The 10.2x is the 2 way version of what you have with a different remote, so its brain will be the same as yours.

You could take it to an Electronics/TV repair shop and they should be able to fix it, Might be a bad solder connection is all that wrong with it.

Also the 12.5x is the same brain also. all the clifford alarms that I have listed all have the same wiring plugs and all use the 548t antenna like yours. The 12x and the 12.2x might also work but antenna type is not listed so not guaranteed.

But all of them are discontinued, right? So, Ill have to find a brain donor....

I can take a look inside and see if the solder connections are bad, but I kinda did that already and they look fine. Do relays just 'up and die' like this? The lock works fine. Unlock is the issue.

Which leads me to believe its a bad connection. most likely the pin where it connects to the board as it get flexed over time. Otherwise its the relay, if you have any electronics experience you can test with a dmm on contitnuity setting from 1. pin to board, 2. while operating the unlock from remote across the suspect relay, and 3. relay pins to ground while operating the unlock from remote. Relays do fail with time but are repairable. if you can't find a replacement brain it can be replaced with a newer model if you swap 1 wire at a time and stay with DEI brands the colors will be the same.

What do I swap it with? I like the 2 way system.

You can still find them on ebay under the different brand names. this is a 1 way that uses the same plugs minimal wiring just use your antenna and program your remotes. Here on ebay Viper 5000 for starters. https://www./itm/Viper-5000-Remote-Car-Alarm-System-with-remotes-P-N-3301V-/172277421085?hash=item281c88d41d:g:yysAAOSwepJXZbUF The internal DEI number 3301v/x/p is the one way system And the 3302v/x/p is the 2 way system. The only difference between a 1 way and a 2 way is the antenna and remotes. And you can swap a 1 way antenna for a 2 way to upgrade to 2 way. For you purposes the 1 way is cheaper.

If I were to get that one, All I need out of it is the brain, right?

Just plug everything else in wire for wire? If I use my current two way antenna, then from transcross, I can use my 489x remote. Is that correct?

Yes The only thing that might be different would be the door locks if yours has the 7 pin wire plug as this has the 2 wire door lock. Basically the 7 pin has the 451m built in, but for you vehicle all you need is the 2 pin (-) to operate your locks direct to alarm). If yours is only 2 wire then your good to go. Program remotes (you might have to delete all remotes first with new antenna then swap for your original antenna) then program the remotes you want up to 4. And any settings non-default from original to the new one.

I dont quite follow. https://pdf.ampire.de/viper/Viper5000_installation.pdf

This seems to indicate that it has a 7 wire lock harness...no?

So does the 10.5x based on the install manual from this site.https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=651 So they should be the same.

Wait...so these two brains are identical? I can literally swap out the brain and re-program remotes/options?

Why have so many identical products under different names?

So they can sell exclusive distribution rights on a geographical basis. Like here Viper is only sold at the Dukes car stereo only. And ABC Wharehouse/Mickey Shore sells only Python in the same area.

Ok. So we are certain that ebay link alarm will work and my current 2 way alarm will still be a 2 way alarm since I have the antenna? Any reason to have a bitwriter for this to make It easier? Also you mentioned something about them being in the same generation. Is the viper 5000 the same generation as my matrix 10.5x?

Agdodge4x4 wrote:

Ok. So we are certain that ebay link alarm will work and my current 2 way alarm will still be a 2 way alarm since I have the antenna? Any reason to have a bitwriter for this to make It easier? Also you mentioned something about them being in the same generation. Is the viper 5000 the same generation as my matrix 10.5x?

Yes both are DEI part nunber 3301, as for the bit writer that up to you.

Im going for it. I was reading my directions for the CLifford, and I dont understand exactly how you program remotes using the 'auto/learn' feature. I dont want to program each button.

Second, I have a glass break sensor, and ever since installing, when you arm the system, it beeps to arm, and then a second later there is a secondary beep. I never pinpointed why, but I was told I could remedy that with a bitwriter.

Also, is there any current replacement remote for the discontinued 489?

Agdodge4x4 wrote:

Im going for it. I was reading my directions for the CLifford, and I dont understand exactly how you program remotes using the 'auto/learn' feature. I dont want to program each button.

Auto learn programs all buttons to the standard configuration by just pressing one button usually the lock button.

You should delete all remotes first, if you have any problems temporally use the new antenna and new remote to do this. Then use the originally installed antenna and 2 way remote to reprogram the remotes You want to use.

Agdodge4x4 wrote:

Second, I have a glass break sensor, and ever since installing, when you arm the system, it beeps to arm, and then a second later there is a secondary beep. I never pinpointed why, but I was told I could remedy that with a bitwriter.

It does that typically because it is seeing a trigger at the time of arming and bypassing it. Need to check all trigger points and verify that they are properly configured. You will also get this if you arm while the door is still open.

Or you need to change feature 2-1 to (grouped,off) if it is arming the shock sensor and glass sensor (progressive).
This can be done with out a bitwriter.

Agdodge4x4 wrote:

Also, is there any current replacement remote for the discontinued 489?

You can use any remote at this link here:489x Replacements

Just get them where ever they are the cheapest.

Thank you so much for your advice and guidance. I will try to get it up and running and then start trying to fix odds and ends. In regards to:
[quote]Need to check all trigger points and verify that they are properly configured. You will also get this if you arm while the door is still open. [/quote]

The door is not open during arming. What does the first sentence mean? What do I check in regards to making sure trigger points are properly configured?

Agdodge4x4 wrote:

What does the first sentence mean? What do I check in regards to making sure trigger points are properly configured?

Make sure you have the correct door trigger wires by verifying the with dmm. For proper operation and polarity as it is easy get the wrong wire on fords. If that all checks good then it is the (option 2-1) that needs to be changed so all sensors arm at the same time. This option is new that the older units that I have installed the most never had. Haven't installed any additional sensors on these systems yet but have read about it.

On this alarm, according to the manual, Violet is + Door Trigger and Green is - Door Trigger input.

How do you verify with DMM? I dont know if it matters, but this alarm DOES go off when armed and a door is opened.

I think my truck is - when door is open. So, I need to check the DMM with probe on ground and red probe on H1/8 (Green wire on brain) and I should get 12V when doors are closed and 0 Volts when one is open? Correct?

DMM on continuity probe to ground! Should only show continuity when door is opened.

Door Trigger Negative Wire (-): BLACK / YELLOW And BLACK/ Pink (Use Both). Use the above wires on vehicles without factory keyless entry, with factory keyless, the wires are at the BCM, drivers door BLACK / YELLOW (-) pin 4, passenger door, BLACK/ pink (-) pin 5, the drivers side rear door is a BLACK/ light blue (-) pin 12 and the passenger rear door is a BLACK/ white (-) pin 13. When connecting to an alarm system, use all 4 door trigger wires and diode isolate.

Door Trigger Negative Wire Location: In Drivers Kick Panel, Gray Plug, Pins 22 and 23.

The BCM wires can also be found in drivers door sill wiring just behind drivers seat where the wires join from the passenger side.

Also only need drivers door, BLACK / YELLOW (-) pin 4, passenger door, BLACK/ pink (-) pin 5 for extended cab with suicide rear doors with factory keyless!

Is there a way to bypass the omboard door lock relay and put on an aftermarket one that will lock and unlock my doors with the alarm?

Is there a reason you want to do all this extra work?

This is the Type of door lock system you have. posted_image

NO, I just want my dang truck to unlock when you disarm it.

My easiest option is to find a replacement brain for cheap.

Can I install a Viper 3305 instead? The wire colors and function seem to be all the exact same as what I have, they are just in different positions on the harness. Can I not just re-do that?

In theory any DEI brand Alarm that has the 4 wire antenna plug should work with your antenna and remotes. But be aware that this has not been tested with all models.

I have taken a 1-way alarm/starter Viper 5601 and upgrade from a 1-way 6111t supercode antenna to a 2-way 6711t SST antenna and LCD remotes with out to much issue. The only issue with programming the LCD remotes was that I had to Program a 1-way SST remote first then the LCD would program. Just trying to program the LCD first would always fail.

If you try to swap a newer brain your antenna and remotes might or might not work as this is uncharted water except for my success.
If you want to try you luck you can get a Avital 3100L Cheap, Just make sure you get the newer revision with separate Antenna with 4-pin plug not the older one with attached single wire antenna. The only wires you will need to change will be the door lock wires if the 10.5x has 7-pin lock harness and starter wires if you had the immobilizer hooked up.

If you decide to give this a try you will need to delete all remotes from the Avital with the avital antenna and remote first. Then proceed to plug in you antenna and program your remotes 1-way first, the 2-way.

This is the single wire antenna!
posted_image

This is the one you would need to make sure you are getting if you want to try swapping a newer brain. posted_image

Agdodge4x4 wrote:

Can I install a Viper 3305 instead? The wire colors and function seem to be all the exact same as what I have, they are just in different positions on the harness. Can I not just re-do that?

You should be able to as long as the original remotes program to the new antenna with out problems or the original antenna and remotes will program to the Viper with out problems. The 3305v (Viper Responder 350) uses the 7341v lcd remote which is compatiable with the 489x. So it should be the same minus any firmware changes internally. You won't know until you try.

This is the wiring that I have for your Clifford Matrix 10.5X (3301x). Which shows it has a 7-pin door lock harness, not the 2 wire 3 pin like the newer ones have.

posted_image

Have you checked too see if the 2nd Unlock works. Would need to change option 3-14 to Immediate with first unlock.

Otherwise if Factory disarm output works you could use it to unlock too, but it will also unlock during remote start on units that have it.

lurch228 wrote:

Have you checked too see if the 2nd Unlock works. Would need to change option 3-14 to Immediate with first unlock.

Otherwise if Factory disarm output works you could use it to unlock too, but it will also unlock during remote start on units that have it.

Are you saying I could just change that option 3-14 and leave all wiring and alarm exactly the same and it will unlock the truck upon disarming? I do not have remote start. Its a diesel.

You would need to connect the 2nd unlock wire in place of the unlock wire that is already connected if it is working that is. It's a band-aid until you can get it fix replaced or whatever you decide to do.

Where's the 2nd unlock wire? I dont see it referenced in the manual.

H2/1 Auxiliary Harness Light Blue (-) Second Unlock

Here the install guide for the 10.5x I have been referencing from.
Clifford Matrix 10.5x (N3301X)

OK. Let me step back a second. I need to confirm that this thing is wired right from the get go. I have factory key fob that operates the unlock in a progressive fashion. I like it. How should my alarm be wired for this functionality to work, assuming everything was working properly? As it is, all doors used to unlock at once upon disarming. Seems that if my progressive was wired right, then I should be able to hit unlock twice and the other locks would open.

That does not happen. How should it be wired?

You would wire the first unlock direct to door lock motor and second unlock to BCM power unlock. The wire for the driver door motor is RED / orange in the driver kick. Wire it up like so:

Be sure to test everything. Offhand the motor side should be the side going towards the driver door and the switch side will be going towards the rear of the vehicle.
posted_image

1041_Door_Locking_Systems_Wiring_Guide

Welp, I never found a replacement brain for this alarm. :(

I'm now looking again. Just to confirm, my existing alarm is a Clifford 10.5X

I know the Viper 5000 is a direct swap but can I can replace it's brain with a Viper 5002 Brain?

Actually, Can I get a mostly exhaustive list of brains that are direct plug in replacements for my Matrix 10.5X?

Just Viper and Python are sufficient but if you know them for Clifford that would be great.

Man...the SECOND UNLOCK will work, but the original installers didn't use the auxiliary harness and I don't have it! DAMMIT.

I still have a problem. I got my new alarm brain installed. However, I have a wire that is not hooked up that I found.

Found two wires disconnected. No idea where they go as they have connectors on them so they should have mating connectors.

DOOR LOCK HARNESS:
GREEN/BLACK Lock #30 Common (Output) ------> Hooked up to a White wire with red tracer in my drivers kick panel
BLUE/BLACK UNLOCK #30 Common (Output) ------> Hooked up on the wire that is Black with white tracer in the kick panel

MAIN HARNESS
GREEN (-) Door Trigger Input, Zone 3 -----> ???? This wire has a connector but its just loose in the door. No idea where this should go. It doesn't look like it was ever hooked up. SHould it be? If so, where?

Can someone shed light on where this should go?

Also, I have a bitwriter, and I have saved my OLD configuration, but I cannot get it to program my new alarm (identical brain). I'd also like to program the old remote to the new brain. How do I copy settings?