2010 Ford Fusion Manual Trans Ready Mode problem

Hello all. I'm installing a Titan TS133 remote start with an xpresskit PKTX bypass into a 2010 ford fusion manual transmission. I've only installed a few starters before and they've all been autos so far. The issue I am having is setting the car into ready mode. I can get the remote to take over, remove the key, and shut it down with the remote, but then when I try to start it again it just flashes 4 times for "not in ready mode / door open". I'm fairly certain my problem is the door trigger, the module isn't seeing a door open then close again before shutdown. I now see after some more research on here that the door triggers are N.C. and need to be diode isolated. Will this fix my issue, and is this my only option or is the domelight a viable choice for this scenario? Thanks in advance for helping a noobie out.

Using the domelight supervision is gonna save you a lot of headache. I would go that route. Make sure the polarity of the vehicle's domelight supervision circuit matches up with the door trigger input of the titan remote start. If not, you will have to use a relay to change polarity.

-------------
I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

Ok awesome. The titan unit has both a positive and negative door trigger wire, and according to bulldog securities vehicle wiring chart, the dome light supervision wire is a positive polarity. So if I'm not mistaken I should just have to wire my positive trigger right to that and it should be good. And that should fix my ready mode issue?

All you need to do is hook up the positive door input to the positive dome light supervison and that should take car of the ready mode as long as the door trigger was your only issue

-------------
I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

You have the ebrake hooked up to the Titan as well correct?

-------------
I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

Yes I do have the ebrake hooked up as well. Nearest I can tell the door trigger has to be my issue, just because the module isn't seeing a door open and then close after I apply the ebrake and then press the start button on the remote. Is there anything else I should maybe look at when I go back into it?

Make sure your clutch is bypassed correctly. Remember you won't be able to drop the clutch when you remote start it ( it has to be done electronically) and using pit stop mode (taking the vehicle over with the remote start after the vehicle is running with the key) won't justify if the clutch has been bypassed correctly.

-------------
I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

Ok that was the other thing I couldn't find much info on. I thought maybe it was the bypass module that took care of that? I haven't even gotten it to try and crank yet (I assume due to the door trigger) so I'm unsure on the clutch. Sorry this is new territory for me, I do want to learn though, I really appreciate all the help.

Looking at the wiring for the clutch switch, all it does is ground when the clutch is depressed, so could I not just splice the wires together at the switch? Or is there a more proper way to do it with a relay?

Ignore what I said about splicing the wires together that was dumb, my apologies. What would be the easiest and most proper way to bypass the clutch?

Does the remote start have a (-) starter output

-------------
I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

These tests need to be followed in order otherwise you may damage something!

Test Clutch switch with DDM set to continuity for resistance accros switch when depressed.

Test the clutch wires for positive voltage and Ground wire with a DMM set to continuity to verify that it's either a direct ground or a resistance ground.

IF it's a direct ground then test the Switch to see if it has resistance built into it.

IF switch test shows resistance when depressed then you will need to match the resistance with a resistor.

IF positive is less than 12v, like 5v then it's a reference voltage and a relay and resistor will be needed across the clutch wires matching the switch resistance.

Make sure the vehicle is out of gear and parking brake is set when testing this.

IF no resistance across switch and no resistance to ground then test with a jumper wire to ground to positive side, if its a pull down then applying ground to the positive side that has voltage reading should allow the vehicle to start with out pressing down the clutch peddle.



IF switch has no resistance across it and the ground wire has no resistance to ground and it starts with a ground pull down jumper wire to positive switch side.

If it starts this way then use the Pink/White wire set (Using the jumper to set the polarity to negative)to provide ground to the the voltage side of the clutch switch pulling it to ground.

Check and record all the above and post back the results. And more direction can be given if you need it.

As always test first before you start trying to modify or connect anything to vehicle!

Awesome thanks for the info! I wont have the car again until probably this weekend but I will definitely run through that. The pink/white wire that is selectable, all it says is 2nd starter, ignition or accessory, doesn't say anything about the polarity of it. I found this on here https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=124125 would this car be the same hook up?

Reguarding the link: Thats exactly what you'll need to do. 2008-2010 Fusion is the same wiring.

-------------
I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

Ok perfect. Now with regards to polarity of the 2nd start wire, I suppose my best bet is hook up door trigger, then try to start (wont crank because of the clutch) but should still allow me to test that wire correct?

darmck wrote:

---

Awesome thanks for the info! I wont have the car again until probably this weekend but I will definitely run through that. The pink/white wire that is selectable, all it says is 2nd starter, ignition or accessory, doesn't say anything about the polarity of it. I found this on here https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=124125 would this car be the same hook up?

---

I was mistaken on the polarity of the Pink/White is not selectable only function is selectable.
Here's the jumper charts for your unit to select signal output, JP1 is the one you need to set to the proper output! Then use a relay across the switch Pink/White to 86, 85 to ground, 87 to 5v clutch wire, and 30 to clutch ground wire. Basically mimicking the switch with the relay.

Fantastic, looks like I've got everything I need to finish this off. Thanks alot for your patience and advice! I'll post back with how everything turns out.

No Problem.

Ok, so I've got the car back today, unfortunately the dome light will not work because the car turns the dome on again when the car is shutdown, automatically making the car think that the door has been opened again and kicking it out of ready mode. I have gotten the car to start though by manually using the negative door trigger wire to make it think a door was opened then closed, so at least I know all my other wiring is correct. So correct me if I'm wrong but my only option is the diode isolation with 8 diodes and 4 resistors?

There is a discontinued bypass module for NC door triggers (DITMAZDA). I've never personally used one. Otherwise you'll have to use diodes and resistors. I don't know if DEI or fortin makes a bypass with a door trigger output? Might be another option.

-------------
I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

Left Front Door Trigger GREEN/ purple - N.C. SJB, gray 26 pin plug (C), pin 14


Right Front Door Trigger white - N.C. SJB, gray 26 pin plug (C), pin 2


Left Rear Door Trigger green - N.C. SJB, gray 26 pin plug (C), pin 3


Right Rear Door Trigger yellow - N.C. SJB, gray 26 pin plug (C), pin 15

Sorry for the late reply, I managed to get everything working on the car. Thanks again for all the help and input!

Fords are FUN!
Glad to hear it's all working.