2009 Rav 4 Sport Remote Start install?

Been searching here and on the net for a couple days trying to answer this out before posting. I have installed a handful of R/S on my personal vehicles but this 09 will be the 1st in need of bypass/Immobilizer. Im pretty comfortable with the Avital line up, specifically the 4103.

That being said, I am trying to answer out how to some questions on this 2009 Rav 4 SPort 4 Cylinder Automatic. It has the Key/remote and has the physical ignition tumbler. It is not a push to start model. From all the research I have found, I will def need a bypass.

My newbie questions arise with this need of said bypass. From what I have read, I will need the bypass programmed to the vehicle. Would a FLPROG and FLCAN be adequate?

I prefer to deactivate the original remote and just go with the Avital for all. I have the wiring diagram for the 09 as well as the R/S. Just need to figure how to marry the bypass to both the car and R/S.

Any of your time in helping out is appreciated.

Thanks,

Wes

I would look into Idatalink bypasses as well. I use them for all my installs and they have great customer support if needed.

Go to idatalink.com and put in your car and take a look at the install guide. Follow it exactly and you wont have an issue.

The 4103 I've done lots of them. My only is they don't seem to like going D2D with the bypasses. I always hardwire all my installs. For me its less issues. Takes a bit longer on the install portion but its easier to trouble shoot later if need be.

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Thanks for the input, I just looked at the HC3452AF and HC2352AC which have the bypass built in, NICE!! Only issue is I am not a dealer so not sure how to get around the software download issue...grrr
Im sure they only sell to dealers but I like to do all my own work.

twin051302 wrote:

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Thanks for the input, I just looked at the HC3452AF and HC2352AC which have the bypass built in, NICE!! Only issue is I am not a dealer so not sure how to get around the software download issue...grrr
Im sure they only sell to dealers but I like to do all my own work.

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You dont need to be a dealer to install the firmware. All you need is the USB and a PC using internet explorer.
Buy this USB (ebay # 122060346012) and it will make your life easier. My local radio shop wants to charge me 50$ for installing the firmware, it's their minimum service charge. I was like screw that.

I'm in about the same boat. I've done the two vehicles in our family that didn't need a bypass. But most vehicles require one. I was looking at the iDatalink install guide for an '09 Rav (type 1 install). It's saying that the dotted lines don't need to be connected for data mode (1 way) and the solid red lines aren't required for data mode (2 way) but doesn't explain the difference. Is it just referring to communication between the modules? In any case, do the red and the dashed lines both not need to be connected? If so, that leaves about 6 connections to the bypass module to be made. Not as bad as I thought. And I'm sure in some cases/vehicles it's even less. Not sure exactly when I'll be doing my next one but it would be good to know if my understanding is correct..

Thanks fot the info on the ebay #, Im still doing my homework on this install. I am probably over thinking this whole process. Just dont like to fail at anything I do lol.

rmotlyintrested wrote:

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I'm in about the same boat. I've done the two vehicles in our family that didn't need a bypass. But most vehicles require one. I was looking at the iDatalink install guide for an '09 Rav (type 1 install). It's saying that the dotted lines don't need to be connected for data mode (1 way) and the solid red lines aren't required for data mode (2 way) but doesn't explain the difference. Is it just referring to communication between the modules? In any case, do the red and the dashed lines both not need to be connected? If so, that leaves about 6 connections to the bypass module to be made. Not as bad as I thought. And I'm sure in some cases/vehicles it's even less. Not sure exactly when I'll be doing my next one but it would be good to know if my understanding is correct..

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1 of us needs to do the install and take some notes lol.

Good idea. I probably won't be doing any more until Spring, but you never know.. I saw a bypass module listed at Canadian Tire (Xpresskit) which claims to be loaded with every firmware. Can't imagine that being really possible. If I find any info which clarifies general bypass module installation I will post it. Maybe others will do the same. I'm still unsure about the dotted black and solid red lines.

rmotlyintrested wrote:

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Good idea. I probably won't be doing any more until Spring, but you never know.. I saw a bypass module listed at Canadian Tire (Xpresskit) which claims to be loaded with every firmware. Can't imagine that being really possible. If I find any info which clarifies general bypass module installation I will post it. Maybe others will do the same. I'm still unsure about the dotted black and solid red lines.

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To make things better or worse, I also see that using the factory remote and a ADS-ALCA by itself you can have it work as a Remote start but are limited to the distance of the factory remote range. I still need to clarify how they are doing this but seems to be an cheap alternative all be it range is very important to me.

I will more than likely just order the Idatalink HC2352AC unit and hopefully have success.

twin051302 wrote:

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[QUOTE=rmotlyintrested]I will more than likely just order the Idatalink HC2352AC unit and hopefully have success.

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I don't know why iData would rebrand those remotes. Those thin ones are passed around quite a bit (Autostart being a notable one). If range is your thing, you can get one of the Compustar kits, and pair it with either a BLADE or ADS module. Installation is simple as the AL will cover both keyless entry and immobilizer bypass, and up to 3 mile range is available.

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DIYer - 1999 Saturn SL2

rmotlyintrested wrote:

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I'm in about the same boat. I've done the two vehicles in our family that didn't need a bypass. But most vehicles require one. I was looking at the iDatalink install guide for an '09 Rav (type 1 install). It's saying that the dotted lines don't need to be connected for data mode (1 way) and the solid red lines aren't required for data mode (2 way) but doesn't explain the difference. Is it just referring to communication between the modules? In any case, do the red and the dashed lines both not need to be connected? If so, that leaves about 6 connections to the bypass module to be made. Not as bad as I thought. And I'm sure in some cases/vehicles it's even less. Not sure exactly when I'll be doing my next one but it would be good to know if my understanding is correct..

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So looking at the Idalink diagram, if your starter supports D2D, then you will not need to make the black and red dotted lines. If your after remote starter doesnt support D2D, then you will need to make dotted line connections. the R/S that I used (Viper) supports D2D, so the connections are easier. Idatalink bypass are great and their diagrams are very clear, just follow their diagram and you shouldn't have any issue (note: their wire diagram do not show the typical connections between the R/S and the car - so you have to additional research for your car).